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Thread: loncin 110 carby specs??
01-08-2008, 07:45 PM #1
loncin 110 carby specs??
i have a loncin 110 powered "hummer" atv originally bought off ebay from yotomoto ive had a lot of problems with getting it to idle correctly over the last year and have recently rebulit the carb i didnt pull out any jets or needls tho i wanted to keep it as original as possible the thing i have noticed is that during this winter the mix went from the normal one to two turns out up to 5 or 6 in the last week or so and it still runs pretty cold i havent had any worries with excess fuel usage or any flat spots since its been done . i know the atmospherics change with the seasons but should the mix need to change that dramaticaly ? also does anyone know where i could get hold of a replacement clutch mine has worn out pretty fast , i know the originals arent very good are there better ones around or should i just go to the local bike shop and see if they have a matching one from a honda or something?
02-08-2008, 03:26 AM #2
Are they the full auto motors with no kick starter or gear shift lever ?
The mixture requirements can definitely change with temperature variations ... but it sounds to me more like engine wear is doing it since as temperatures get colder you'd need to enrichen the idle mixture .... IF your mixture screw is on the side of the carb near the air filter then it's an air screw so screwing it out LEANS the mixture out .... not something you'd need to do in winter .... So the first thing we need to know for certain is where the mixture screw is located on your carb .... IF it's underneath the carb near the manifold , it's a FUEL screw so turning it out enrichens the mixture ....
Needing a leaner mixture points to a drop in cylinder compression ..... Loss of valve clearance or a ring end gap increase both cause a gradual reduction in compression ... When is the last time you checked your valve clearances and do you change the oil very often ?????
It's also possible that the float level has risen due to needle and seat wear and is causing the engine to run richer which would require the idle mixture to be leaned out ...
The auto clutches are adjustable via the lock nut and screw that are in line with the end of the crank on the right hand side engine case .... You loosen the nut and turn the screw to adjust the clutch engagement as it wears and starts slipping ....... I've never adjusted one so I 'aint got a clue which way to turn the screw ... but I'd say screwing it out makes the clutch grab sooner and screwing it in makes it engage later ... ??????
02-08-2008, 02:35 PM #3
ive got the mixture and idle speed screws on my carb its def the mixture ive turned out to richen it as for the clutch the bolt on the crank case on mine doesnt actually do anything its not hooked up to the clutch mine is all internal and he basket slides onto the crank and then a nut srews onto the outside of the basket on the crank im not sure if it can be adjusted, perhps tightening the nut on the crank ? anyone tried this ? my oil doesnt get changed that often but i check it every ride to make sure its still clean i havent had anyprobs with that so far , today i pulled off the carb and cleaned it out again , i found the plastic spacer between the back of the carb and the manifiold was cracked and possibly leaking i sanded out the manifold and polished it up , and found there isnt enugh space to put the carb bak on without the spacer it hits the top of the starter so i put the manifold and carb togeter and put it on backwards so no the air cleaner is facing forward , its tuned up still needs to be fairly rich (maybe a spark prob) i have replacd the stock fuel filter and lines with auto hoses and a filter from a six cyl motor and am considering putting an auto coil in as well , i have also had to modify the exhuast the baffles in it ame loose and were restricting flow so i cut of the end and took them all out its now a empy barrel i just closed the end back up and put a large washer in the end to act as a hole , it sounds pretty tough now lol , runs ok now to but i will continue to tune cos i cant stop tinkering lol , i still think a new clutch is neede tho but cant find them on ebay
02-08-2008, 10:41 PM #4
So is your carb a KF (butterfly choke and round float bowl) ? Or a Mikuni ..... The KF's have the mixture screw on the side near the manifold and it looks like they're a fuel screw ... the Mikuni's have theirs underneath and are a PITA to get at ......
Yeah sounds like the crack was causing an air leak ....
The screw on the side of the cases should adjust the revs that the auto clutch engages at .... as things wear ... the clutch starts to drag too hard causing the bike to pull at idle in gear and stall a lot ......
I've got one of those full auto 110's to put in a bike for my daughter ... are they simply stuck in ONE gear ... or do they shift thru gears like a car auto ?
You can port the heads and fit a 22 mm Keihin but I'm not sure how they'd go as autos ..... I've ported a 110 manual and a 120 manual (Loncins) and they go a HELL of a lot quicker with the 22 Keihin and a bigger pipe ... but for autos you need heaps of bottom end grunt ...
Loncin intakes .... ported vs stock :
Last edited by Cactus Jack; 02-08-2008 at 11:29 PM.
02-08-2008, 11:08 PM #5
Un finished exhaust port ......
Last edited by Cactus Jack; 02-08-2008 at 11:14 PM.
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