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their sites been a little sketchy for me. working now but has been working on and off lately.

should be easy enough. pretty sure they do run a battery, but wouldnt it be easier to just wear some warm gloves or something?

not sure exactly. but for mine i used the dremel for 5-10 mins then did the rest by hand, as i did not have any bits fine enough to finish it, only to remove horrible bits. just used some sort of small round grinding thing (not a grinding block) and then did the rest with wet and dry. i'm sure...

take your time and be patient.. if you rush it you will more than likely ruin the head. make sure everything is smooth, no sharp bends etc.

rebuild time? does it run? or still cant kick it over?

yeah, LOTS of good info in there regardless of pics.. ive read through it before. basically you will want a steady hand if your doing this. also patience, take your time to do anything. the faster you move the faster it goes wrong. what plans did you have? bigger valves?

dont think the clutch is the issue.. to me sounds like somethings locking up somewhere.

does the bike need to be off the ground?

well, there is a another thread asking that exact question if you guys missed it: http://www.miniriders.com/chinese-minis/32356-yx160-vs-z160ho.html

ooh, thats looking pretty nice. decided between carb and efi? the efi would be nice, but i suppose depends on what your budget can take. but damn, at this price, im tempted to grab it to play around with..

LOL, i know i am :D

damn, those kyosho's look alright as a starter. thought about getting a 1/7 or 1/8, but my money cannot get together for it. ages ago i got a fazer 1:10, was good fun and all. ended up trying to transplant a hpi .25 engine in it lol. that lasted maybe one hour of run time.. but man that thing...

Hi, This should help answer the EFI question, quick search up the top. theres a few around. if you go that route no need for the carb, but pretty expensive. not sure what others recommend but they seem to like the OKO carbs. as for position, would depend on which route you go for intake, and...

usually they will ground through the frame to the battery. sort of makes things simpler and cleaner. dont think anything from the cdi should be going to the positive of the battery. off the top of my head, im not sure of the layout, all the colors should match up. Here is a diagram (thanks...

hows it going? if you sorted it out please disregard the following post. :) hmmm, cant see the wires too well, but is there two yellows or a yellow and a white wire? (non striped) if so those will be the positives to go into the rectifier. from the looks of things, the black wire coming out of...

its possible, dont know much about that bike in particular. but i know that for the most part the atomiks and stuff have to be re-jetted out of the box. id look at a re tune and valve clearances if its not already done.

simple question, but is it tuned properly? sounds like its running a bit lean?

i take it you still want to use lights and stuff? in that case, if the rectifier can handle it. lifan 125 harness should have 2 yellow wires that arent really connected to any pins. they go to the rectifier. theres a few threads on here with the layout of the pins. have a look at this hope that...

inlet : 0.0762mm exhaust : 0.1016mm pretty sure thats right.

lol, to me, sounds like the same thing, something maybe missed here. at or just past tdc(compression stroke), dont think it should make much, if any diff(correct me if im wrong). as long as its not before. dont know what your measure of one click is.. and as DHZ_ says, dont leave your foot...