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choke still on? or didn't use choke at all and engine still cold?

all good now, worked the shift star myself,shifts nicely now, just a lil' harder to find neutral because of what i did with that shift star. one notch was too steep to go from 1st to neutral ,so i rounded that one off a bit to meke it less steep, so less pressure was needed to shift up from 1st...

if you want high revs over torque then go for the 24 ,eventough it's going to be hard to set up correct. 21mm will be better overall if you ask me, easier to jet, and more rideable... if i had a 140cc i'd choose between 24 and 26mm. my 125cc has a 22mm carb and feels nice overall

how did you order the correct parts for it if you didn't know the name/brand? just put it up for bids and try not to loose too much, sure it's not going to make you rich :p

36 seems waaaayyy too high! :-O in a 22/24 carb you would put a 17.5 so you got allmost double size? woudld you have something smaller to try out out and see if that helps idle?

maybe try to swap the spacers from sideand see if it lines up better? if that solves the wheel alignment, you can start to look at the front brake. furthermore, aslong as there's working brakes and a nice running engine, go let her ride and tinker with it :-)

hey, what's the tyre size and brand on that 10" rear wheel? i need one like this for mine...

leaking crank seals are most definately the problem for no idle or high idle. smoking is normal for a 2stroke, especially when the bike's been sitting for a while, the oil sinks to the bottom of the fuel tank. shake the bike before you open the fuel tap. about the loose seal... it might have...

video,or we don't believe you :-p

i put a philips bit on a rubber tube wich is flexible enough to reach the air screw. as for the rear shock, i tried putting about 7bar pressure onto it ,but that doesn't really make any difference. from what i recall from a previous (big) bike, it needed about 10 bar of nitrogen... at 7 bar...

don't count on it being plug and play ;-) nothing really is...

solved the stalling issue by putting a bigger PJ, from 15 to 17.5. now just need to lift the needle a notch and see it gets better response. rear suspention needs pressure, can i just add air or do i really need nitrogen to keep it cool?

hi guys, so i got this all genuine thumpstar, incl (fake?) mikuni 22mm carb. starts really well, runs nice on choke but once getting warm ,it starts cutting out/sputtering. these symptoms can be counntered with a little more choke 1/3 to 1/2 choke. most likely i'm running lean but want your...

i personally wouldn't mess with injection,for the cost and complexity of it. speedo, fab something yourself, as the rest of the bike will be ;-) have fun with it and make sure brakes are sufficient!!

i think you shouldn't post the same link to your vid in 3 different topics...

no update yet on the groms with the 190?

get the motor really warm,go ride it. and then see if tapping can be heard clearly. but if you did correctly, and correct values, then all should be fine.

thanks on the input on the Zs engines. i heard about putting shims under the valve springs could help some? i could make a couple on a lathe? anyone an idea how thinck they need to be? anyone else had there shift fork bent on these Zs engines?

part of the engine of chassis?

a Tb head costs as much as the whole new engine :-/ what if stock head would be flowed, squich can be worked out? just an immense risk not to touch the valve seats ... it's gonna be too expensive by the time i've upgraded all the rest, suspension front and back and longer swingarm to make it...