agressive1
Well-Known Member
Hey Guys and Girls this is a Tutorial on “How to” do things which I think is very important to know to get the most out of your bike and to make your days worth of riding a day to remember. It will also give you a few tips which you may have never thought of.
1) Building procedures which need to be done out of the crate.
2) How to fix chain if fallen of while riding.
3) Change oil on run in or any general change of oil.
4) How to apply lock tite on screws.
5) First time rider of a mini bike or pit bike.
6) Tools needed on first ride.
7) Chain tension.
8) Cleaning the bike.
9) How to install brake pads.
10) How to take of and change gears when riding.
1) Building procedures which need to be done out of the crate.
There are a number of items that do need to be mounted onto the bike before full operation of your new mini motorbike.
These are the items which do need to be added to the bike, this doesn’t mean that you have to buy these parts they already come with the bike but just not mounted for postage reasons.
Front and rear break pads need to be put on which are included in the box. To install rear break pads the rear wheel will have to come off unfortunately and then put back on. The front wheel is already of so all is needed to be done is to place new break pads in front calliper and install front tyre.
How to install break pads please go to step number 9.
Rear break lever needs to be added with a number of other equipment like split pins, washer and spring to make sure the brake lever goes back into neutral position.
Plastics which include front mud guard, seat and left and right side guards. The left and right side guards are already attached to the seat but do need to be tightened slightly as they are loose. Nuts, screws washers and rubber washers are included with the bike which does need to be used on plastics.
Handle bars need to be put in place and mounted down with handle bar brace, doesn’t matter how you sit them as long as they are comfortable for you and that they are even side by side. Usually the handle bars should be facing sky high but then again up to you on how comfortable you like them. Also the MSO or other manufacturer brand padded chest or head protector does need to be added to handle bars which is easy to do as it is only Velcro.
The muffler needs to be added also by placing muffler over exhaust manifold and mounted down with metal bracket with a line of rubber protector which is added also with the bike. There is also a spacer which is added that’s about 15 to 20mm long, this is added between the exhaust bracket and rear frame once screw has been passed through.
The rear cradle frame has been mounted on but needs 2 extra bolts added to it so that it is fully mounted down and tightened.
The CDI unit needs to be put in its little holder “Pouch” which is easily visible and easy to do.
The fuel cap also needs to be added, be sure to put the fuel cap on strait as it is made out of Aluminium and has sharp threads which can easily cross thread the fuel tanks thread. Place fuel cap on fuel tank thread making sure that it is flat and even slowly turn it, if it feels tight take of immediately and try again until it roles on smooth.
2) How to fix chain if fallen of while riding.
I’m sure that this has happen to quiet a few people either because they haven’t checked tension of the chain or the chain is new and has stretched on first ride.
Make sure that the chain is on the first cog which is at the motor once this is on put the rear chain on from the top not the bottom, you will be only able to get half of it on unless the chain is really really loose. Once the chain is half on the rear sprocket slowly role back the bike making sure that the bike is in Neutral and that the chain is going back on.
If you put the chain on from the bottom instead of the top the bike will then need to be rolled forward, either way both procedures will work without a doubt.
Please take note that this does not mean that you are set to go for another ride as the chain will need to be adjusted again. This is just a procedure to get you back to your site where you can perform work on the bike. Or if you have your own tool set with you while riding you can perform work on the bike. Please read step 6 for information on what tools are needed on a ride.
3) Change oil on run in or any general change of oil.
Well you may have a new bike and can’t wait until starting it or you may have an old bike and wouldn’t have a clue on how to change the oil and scratching your head at the same time thinking of what to do.
Changing oil is very important these days as the 4 stroke motor is becoming to be more powerful and needs more maintenance then some of the older 4 strokes. To much oil or to less oil is both bad for your bike so making sure that you have the rite amount is very important.
First you will need to take of the dip stick or loosen it just so air can get in the engine and make the oil easier to run through its drain hole. Second you will need to loosen the oil drain nut which is located at the bottom of the crank case under the bash plate, you will see a hole in the bash plate which is where the drainage hole is. Making sure before you loosen the nut that you have paper or any other protector under the bike so that you don’t dirty the floor as oil is a pain to get rid of and usually leaves a mark. You will also need a container or some sort of bucket which will at least hold up to 1.5 litres of oil. Once you have these materials take out the drainage nut using a 17mm socket and making sure that you don’t loose the washer or nut in the oil as both items do need to be reused again.
I prefer leaving the bike over night to drip but if you don’t have the time at least leave it dripping for a good 15 minutes. I also tend to put the bike on a few different angles as oil does get caught inside the engine. If you do this you will notice a lot more oil will appear.
Once you have done this install the drainage nut back on with the washer in place firmly so that it will not leak or come of.
It’s up to you what oil you want to run but for the moment I’ am running Mineral oil as I’ am still running in the engine. Fill the bike up with about 1 litres worth of oil, place dip stick back in position but do not screw down making sure that the bike is on a flat ground, check dip stick its above the line on the criss cross pattern then the bike is fine with oil but I usually fill it rite to the top of the criss cross pattern.
Install the dip stick back on and go for a ride you may notice that the oil will drop slightly in level but that is fine as the oil is getting moved around in all its places where the oil had drained out from.
4) How to apply lock tite on screws.
Most people think to them selves don’t worry “shell” be alrite if you do it nice and tight. Vibration is a very big issue with these bikes and there is plenty of it, even though you may think that the nut is tight and it wont come out you should still add some lock tight which glues the screw in firmly and stops vibrations from loosening the screw or nut.
There are 3 types of lock tites which is, low strength, medium strength and high strength I use medium strength which holds my screws in nice and tight and im happy with it.
I apply lock tite on all of the thread of the screw that gets screwed into its hole and I also do the head of the screw as it locks onto the face of the metal surroundings which gives the screw a better lock.
1) Building procedures which need to be done out of the crate.
2) How to fix chain if fallen of while riding.
3) Change oil on run in or any general change of oil.
4) How to apply lock tite on screws.
5) First time rider of a mini bike or pit bike.
6) Tools needed on first ride.
7) Chain tension.
8) Cleaning the bike.
9) How to install brake pads.
10) How to take of and change gears when riding.
1) Building procedures which need to be done out of the crate.
There are a number of items that do need to be mounted onto the bike before full operation of your new mini motorbike.
These are the items which do need to be added to the bike, this doesn’t mean that you have to buy these parts they already come with the bike but just not mounted for postage reasons.
Front and rear break pads need to be put on which are included in the box. To install rear break pads the rear wheel will have to come off unfortunately and then put back on. The front wheel is already of so all is needed to be done is to place new break pads in front calliper and install front tyre.
How to install break pads please go to step number 9.
Rear break lever needs to be added with a number of other equipment like split pins, washer and spring to make sure the brake lever goes back into neutral position.
Plastics which include front mud guard, seat and left and right side guards. The left and right side guards are already attached to the seat but do need to be tightened slightly as they are loose. Nuts, screws washers and rubber washers are included with the bike which does need to be used on plastics.
Handle bars need to be put in place and mounted down with handle bar brace, doesn’t matter how you sit them as long as they are comfortable for you and that they are even side by side. Usually the handle bars should be facing sky high but then again up to you on how comfortable you like them. Also the MSO or other manufacturer brand padded chest or head protector does need to be added to handle bars which is easy to do as it is only Velcro.
The muffler needs to be added also by placing muffler over exhaust manifold and mounted down with metal bracket with a line of rubber protector which is added also with the bike. There is also a spacer which is added that’s about 15 to 20mm long, this is added between the exhaust bracket and rear frame once screw has been passed through.
The rear cradle frame has been mounted on but needs 2 extra bolts added to it so that it is fully mounted down and tightened.
The CDI unit needs to be put in its little holder “Pouch” which is easily visible and easy to do.
The fuel cap also needs to be added, be sure to put the fuel cap on strait as it is made out of Aluminium and has sharp threads which can easily cross thread the fuel tanks thread. Place fuel cap on fuel tank thread making sure that it is flat and even slowly turn it, if it feels tight take of immediately and try again until it roles on smooth.
2) How to fix chain if fallen of while riding.
I’m sure that this has happen to quiet a few people either because they haven’t checked tension of the chain or the chain is new and has stretched on first ride.
Make sure that the chain is on the first cog which is at the motor once this is on put the rear chain on from the top not the bottom, you will be only able to get half of it on unless the chain is really really loose. Once the chain is half on the rear sprocket slowly role back the bike making sure that the bike is in Neutral and that the chain is going back on.
If you put the chain on from the bottom instead of the top the bike will then need to be rolled forward, either way both procedures will work without a doubt.
Please take note that this does not mean that you are set to go for another ride as the chain will need to be adjusted again. This is just a procedure to get you back to your site where you can perform work on the bike. Or if you have your own tool set with you while riding you can perform work on the bike. Please read step 6 for information on what tools are needed on a ride.
3) Change oil on run in or any general change of oil.
Well you may have a new bike and can’t wait until starting it or you may have an old bike and wouldn’t have a clue on how to change the oil and scratching your head at the same time thinking of what to do.
Changing oil is very important these days as the 4 stroke motor is becoming to be more powerful and needs more maintenance then some of the older 4 strokes. To much oil or to less oil is both bad for your bike so making sure that you have the rite amount is very important.
First you will need to take of the dip stick or loosen it just so air can get in the engine and make the oil easier to run through its drain hole. Second you will need to loosen the oil drain nut which is located at the bottom of the crank case under the bash plate, you will see a hole in the bash plate which is where the drainage hole is. Making sure before you loosen the nut that you have paper or any other protector under the bike so that you don’t dirty the floor as oil is a pain to get rid of and usually leaves a mark. You will also need a container or some sort of bucket which will at least hold up to 1.5 litres of oil. Once you have these materials take out the drainage nut using a 17mm socket and making sure that you don’t loose the washer or nut in the oil as both items do need to be reused again.
I prefer leaving the bike over night to drip but if you don’t have the time at least leave it dripping for a good 15 minutes. I also tend to put the bike on a few different angles as oil does get caught inside the engine. If you do this you will notice a lot more oil will appear.
Once you have done this install the drainage nut back on with the washer in place firmly so that it will not leak or come of.
It’s up to you what oil you want to run but for the moment I’ am running Mineral oil as I’ am still running in the engine. Fill the bike up with about 1 litres worth of oil, place dip stick back in position but do not screw down making sure that the bike is on a flat ground, check dip stick its above the line on the criss cross pattern then the bike is fine with oil but I usually fill it rite to the top of the criss cross pattern.
Install the dip stick back on and go for a ride you may notice that the oil will drop slightly in level but that is fine as the oil is getting moved around in all its places where the oil had drained out from.
4) How to apply lock tite on screws.
Most people think to them selves don’t worry “shell” be alrite if you do it nice and tight. Vibration is a very big issue with these bikes and there is plenty of it, even though you may think that the nut is tight and it wont come out you should still add some lock tight which glues the screw in firmly and stops vibrations from loosening the screw or nut.
There are 3 types of lock tites which is, low strength, medium strength and high strength I use medium strength which holds my screws in nice and tight and im happy with it.
I apply lock tite on all of the thread of the screw that gets screwed into its hole and I also do the head of the screw as it locks onto the face of the metal surroundings which gives the screw a better lock.
