Even race car engines are sensitive to throttle timing .... the more worked the engine is .... the worse it gets ...... I know about it because I raced 4 stroke bikes / cars and tried every different sized carb ....
You can actually work out what sized carb you need using a mathematical formula ...... check out Calculating Flow (CFM) / Sizing - on this link :
Olds FAQ -- Carburetors
Big carbs on motorcycles act the same as a 2 barrel or larger carb on a car .... you can even bog a worked Holden 6 with 1 3/4 triple SU's if it's not in the right gear at the right revs when you floor the throttle ....... my race engine had to be above 3500 rpm before you could tromp the throttle and it was properly tuned .........
This info is from a link on modded rotary engines :
Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About Rotary Carburetion - Vintage Rotaries
[As with all big 2 barrel carbs, you cannot open the throttle quickly at low engine speeds. The minimum engine speed at which a big 2 barrel will not bog varies depending on the size of the venturies, but usually you cannot floor them below 3500 rpm without the engine stumbling. This is usually a rude shock to someone new to a 2 barrel, but that is just the laws of physics. You can overcome the bog by learning how quickly you can open the throttle and when you can give it full throttle.]
The Float Bowl Level being too low can be a cause of bogging if it starts happening on a previously spot on running carb that is being throttled the same as before ......
[The float bowl level is critical in getting the carb to run right. As stated above, during ¼ throttle and above operating conditions, the venturi sucks the fuel out of the float bowl. If the fuel level in the float bowl is too high, fuel will run out of the float bowl, through the venturi and down in the engine all the time, flooding out the engine. This is exactly what happens when your needle and seat go bad, making the float bowl level rise above the booster venturi and flood out the engine. Besides flooding out an engine, an improper float bowl level will show up when the carb is making the transition from the idle circuit to the transition circuit to the main run circuit. Since the venturi is sucking fuel up out of the float bowl, if the float level is too low, then the venturi must suck harder since it has to raise the fuel higher up before it starts flowing out of the venturi. If the venturi has to suck harder, then it will not reach that higher suction until you reach higher air velocity through the venturi, which means that the main run circuit won't start flowing fuel until higher rpm / throttle more open conditions. A too low float bowl fuel level is sometimes the cause of a stumble or bog or hesitation or flat spot. Too high of a float bowl level may make the main run circuit start adding fuel too soon, before the engine is flowing enough air to need that much fuel. This will cause too rich of a mixture during the transition periods. If your carb was running right and you suddenly develop a carb problem like these, then check the float bowl level. Always run the float bowl level that is recommended by the manufacturer of the carb, or the level recommended by the person who put together the complete carb/intake manifold kit that you are running.]
