Hello! For start sory for my bad language skills. I have problems with my pit bike eletronics. I wanted to add headlight to my pit bike. So i wired everything up, but something was wrong and i end up with busted batery. From my strator comes out only 2v but from rectifier about 6v. Could any one pls tell me what shoold i do?
110cc pit bike headlight problem
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my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
Welcome to Miniriders,
Do you have a yellow wire and white wire coming from the stator to a 4x terminal regulator / rectifier?
Or are you just running a 2 terminal rectifier ?
Do you have a yellow wire and white wire coming from the stator to a 4x terminal regulator / rectifier?
Or are you just running a 2 terminal rectifier ?
my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
So it looks like this wiring diagram ?
dont worry about the cdi side that's a different set up.
You might have a 6v regulator/rectifier ?
dont worry about the cdi side that's a different set up.
You might have a 6v regulator/rectifier ?
my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
Ok, so is the headlight wired directly to the yellow before the reg/rect?
Might be easier if you can post up some pics of the wires coming from the stator, and into your reg/rect, and out to your battery etc
this thread will help explain what to do to upload pics-
http://www.miniriders.com/general-c...ers-old-new-few-helpful-tips-hints-ideas.html
Might be easier if you can post up some pics of the wires coming from the stator, and into your reg/rect, and out to your battery etc
this thread will help explain what to do to upload pics-
http://www.miniriders.com/general-c...ers-old-new-few-helpful-tips-hints-ideas.html
my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
In the first picture you are measuring it wrong,
put the positive lead from the meter to the yellow wire, and the black lead from the meter to a clean earth point on the engine somewhere and measure it.
then do the same again, but use the white wire to the positive from your meter, and black to earth and measure the volts
put the positive lead from the meter to the yellow wire, and the black lead from the meter to a clean earth point on the engine somewhere and measure it.
then do the same again, but use the white wire to the positive from your meter, and black to earth and measure the volts
![20150217_141231[1].jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/miniriders/data/attachments/6/6490-b7ecde9c401dedbdcfba843a2298c3cb.jpg "20150217_141231[1].jpg")
![20150217_141321[1].jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/miniriders/data/attachments/6/6491-6b2ebef4d3c1bbf856acc8fbe201cf6c.jpg "20150217_141321[1].jpg")
my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
Those readings are a bit better.
Do you have a battery connected to the red and black wires out the reg/rect ?
It might be worth unbolting the reg/rect and clean the frame where it bolts to with some sandpaper,
get is back to shiny metal, use some grease on the frame to stop rust/corrosion etc, then bolt it back on with a new bolt and nut.
Then check the reading out of the reg/rect.
10.78V is that with the engine running/idling? cause it's pretty close, what does the voltage get up to at 1/4 throttle ?
Do you have a battery connected to the red and black wires out the reg/rect ?
It might be worth unbolting the reg/rect and clean the frame where it bolts to with some sandpaper,
get is back to shiny metal, use some grease on the frame to stop rust/corrosion etc, then bolt it back on with a new bolt and nut.
Then check the reading out of the reg/rect.
10.78V is that with the engine running/idling? cause it's pretty close, what does the voltage get up to at 1/4 throttle ?
my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
Yeah it would be putting out full power as the battery is drawing a lot of current, but this can damage the regulators' internals too.
The battery will most likely have boiled the acid out .
Just check the Ohms coming out of the stator, it should read between 1.1 Ohms and 1.3 Ohms
Put one lead from your meter to the yellow, and other lead to the white, meter set to 200 Ohms.
The only thing i can think of if your Stator is ok and within range, is that your Regulator /Rectifier is faulty.
If it has been connected to a lighting coil, but no lights etc used, it can overheat the componants inside.
They are cheap to replace, but make sure you find one that is 12v
and if you can use a switch between the stator output and the regulator so there isn't power running through the reg/rect when the lights aren't being used.
NEW Practical 12V ATV Scooter Dune Buggy Voltage Regulator Rectifier 50 150cc | eBay
The other thing you could do instead of using a battery if you don't have electric start, is to use a Capacitor.
It will allow you to run a headlight/horn etc without a battery, but only when the bike is running.
You don't ever have to worry about the battery dying then.
You need to have the voltage a lot higher than the bikes output, so i'd recommmend a 100v 10,000uF 85c or 105c degree like these-
Capacitor Chemicon 10000 10000uF 100V Electrolytic 105C Degree 50 35 1pc FL USA | eBay
Nippon Chemi CON SMH 10000uF 100V 85°C Large CAP Snap IN Capacitor | eBay
The battery will most likely have boiled the acid out .
Just check the Ohms coming out of the stator, it should read between 1.1 Ohms and 1.3 Ohms
Put one lead from your meter to the yellow, and other lead to the white, meter set to 200 Ohms.
The only thing i can think of if your Stator is ok and within range, is that your Regulator /Rectifier is faulty.
If it has been connected to a lighting coil, but no lights etc used, it can overheat the componants inside.
They are cheap to replace, but make sure you find one that is 12v
and if you can use a switch between the stator output and the regulator so there isn't power running through the reg/rect when the lights aren't being used.
NEW Practical 12V ATV Scooter Dune Buggy Voltage Regulator Rectifier 50 150cc | eBay
The other thing you could do instead of using a battery if you don't have electric start, is to use a Capacitor.
It will allow you to run a headlight/horn etc without a battery, but only when the bike is running.
You don't ever have to worry about the battery dying then.
You need to have the voltage a lot higher than the bikes output, so i'd recommmend a 100v 10,000uF 85c or 105c degree like these-
Capacitor Chemicon 10000 10000uF 100V Electrolytic 105C Degree 50 35 1pc FL USA | eBay
Nippon Chemi CON SMH 10000uF 100V 85°C Large CAP Snap IN Capacitor | eBay
![20150218_061917[1].jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/miniriders/data/attachments/6/6494-062a20bcb8b5520dd1676012f84809ba.jpg "20150218_061917[1].jpg")
my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
Do you know what your stator looks like ?
And do you have a Flywheel Puller ?
And do you have a Flywheel Puller ?
my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
Your Lighting Coils' reading sounds a bit low.
A complete new stator here cost's about $17 or near offer including delivery, Magneto Flywheel Stator Plate 90C 110cc 125cc Kick Start PIT PRO Trail Dirt Bike | eBay
so yeah it's probably your best bet to fit a new one, but i would replace the Reg/Rect at the same time.
A complete new stator here cost's about $17 or near offer including delivery, Magneto Flywheel Stator Plate 90C 110cc 125cc Kick Start PIT PRO Trail Dirt Bike | eBay
so yeah it's probably your best bet to fit a new one, but i would replace the Reg/Rect at the same time.
my67xr
Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
No you can test it off the engine
http://www.miniriders.com/electrica...neto-igniton-coil-source-coil-pulse-coil.html
http://www.miniriders.com/electrica...neto-igniton-coil-source-coil-pulse-coil.html
