150cc T-rex Daytona motor - photos

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Well mine is a ported at factory DOHC too and the specs sent in the kit are really good for Australia. I have bought the 2.5 slide to give me moe of a selection on jetting. I find if i run the 2 slide i get a stronger mid range power and need more traxtion to handle it but if it gets slippery i can change to either the 2.5 or 3.0 slideto shallow out the hit. for the most part the kit went straight on and the carb ran the same jetting in australia as in SLC utah and even vegas. So the jetting is close world wide.
 
yeah well Hacks jetting is pretty much what the kit comes with, but mine obviously needs bigger. mine is ported from the daytona japan factory so that may be the difference in jetting. and not to mention i live next to the water and the nights here are at 10 degrees or so at the moment.

We were trying to start it in about 8 degrees at sea level on a still night, warm weather and altitude will affect the jetting. But you may fine that you will need a different jet between the night riding at dandy and day riding at morang. I do with mine. It was too lean and glowing popping at dandy then it was prob a touch rich at morang the next day. Will take time and experimenting and possibly a dyne to k ow what you need and for it to be the best it can be!
 
well i know its been awhile but with all these damn engine combos we have been trying, we finally we able to find time to work with the takegawa+r head. I laughed the other day while reading through planetclassifieds and someone asked about this combo and BBR said NO. It really was a straight foward install, had to run a 86 link cam chain instead of the 88 that comes standard on the daytona 150. remember the takegawa +r head we are using is designed for for a lifan engine which uses a 32t cam sprocket but the daytona uses a 28t so thats why the shorter cam chain is needed. a good quality jap 86 link cam chain is right around 12$ so its no biggie. we had 1st tried it with the TB 167 gig but due to the 1mm taller jug i could not get the 86 link cam chain to work and the 88 link was way to sloppy. if we had more time we would just cut down the heigth on the 167 cylinder 1mm and things would work out perfect. soooo we decided to give the stock 150 cylinder a try with the daytona HC piston. everything went together like planned, clayed the setup, everything cleared but craig and i felt the intake was a tad to close and with the tiny 4.5mm stem 30mm intake valve, just a little tap will bend the shit out of those things. we decided to add another stock daytona base gasket and finish assembly. so the final combo was the stock 150 jug, daytona HC piston, takegawa +r with s35 decomp cam, stock daytona intake and pe28 carb. the s35 decomp cam is similar to the klx version but i feel has a better slide mechanism and seems to work much smoother. the bike is so easy to kick you can start it with your hand so wee added some oil and the bike fired on the 2nd kick. one thing i noticed is that the valve train is so quite and seems to run very smooth. engine revs quick as hell and sounds impressive. it's gonna be a rev monster for sure, sam is gonna test it sat at ramjams and see how it compares to the other combos. unfortunatly its coming right back apart tuesday for the 4v dohc kit.

TAKEGAWA +R COMBUSTION CHAMBER WITH 30MM INTAKE AND 24MM EXHAUST VALVE
takegawa1.jpg


TAKEGAWA +R INTAKE PORT
takegawa2.jpg


DAYTONA 150 AT TDC WITH HC PISTON AND 2 BASE GASKETS
takegawa3.jpg


TAKEGAWA +R DECOMP MECHANISM INSTALLED
takegawa4.jpg


TAKEGAWA +R HEAD INSTALLED ON DAYTONA 150
takegawa5.jpg

How did the 150+R compare to the other set-ups?

Do you think there will be much gain going 160+R?

Anyone else got any feed back on the Takegawa +R head on the Daytona?
 
dunno wether you realied but Australia is like other side of the world mate so clearly jetting specs are gonna be different...

and running richest needle postion dosent that mean you need a bigger main jet?
lol funny shit right there.
 
we have a guy that runs the 167cc daytona +r and loves it, claims its nearly as fast as the 150 dohc daytona. the difference between the 160 dohc and the 150 dohc is big, way more bottomend and midrange kills.
 
we have a guy that runs the 167cc daytona +r and loves it, claims its nearly as fast as the 150 dohc daytona. the difference between the 160 dohc and the 150 dohc is big, way more bottomend and midrange kills.

Have you riden any off the +R set ups, how would you think a 150/160+R would compare to say a KLX155 V2, l say this as this was my last engine and l would like more on this build, but saying that most of my racing is grasscross, some mx and the odd enduro, so l need to be able to get the power to hook up and not just going to get something with more cc's justto wheel spin and not move forward, however fun that might be...

No one else around my area has anything for me to try out. On the Daytona build what would you recommend for my requirements? I am not Pro level!

Thanks
 
the 167+r daytona is a tad faster than the klx155+r engine and alot lighter, and actually we built (the one above in pics) a 150+r hc daytona and it ran harder than the yx160v2. pulled forever and could be started with your hand. i think a great inexpensive combo is the daytona, hc piston and 268 cam with pe28, daytona needle 110 main, 35 pilot. hope this helps.
 
Cody has run the Tak pretty hard, and it pulls more up top than the Daytona head. Just gotta watch the excess revs, as the left end of the crank has broke a couple times. I'm sure it's an advantage, but a properly-ported stock head is no slouch. I did one with a 66mm (YX150DTE-based) stroker and it ripped pretty good. Too small a carb, VM26, but it still made 18HP. With a PE28 it should crowd 20. Animal through the midrange, too.
 
I installed the kit but never really rode it as l sold the bike, the installation went easily except l only had one takegawa rocker shaft so just used the one from the Daytona, which is a lot shorter, it works fine but still disappointing the kit never came with two..

Started up second kit, seems to run quiter with this set up and with the decomp you can start it by hand, l would compare it to starting a crf50.

It also look good when installed. Hope this helps.
 

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