MarlboroMan
Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2009
- Messages
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Hello Thump*140.
I have a Atomik Blitz 250 show in this link - Blitz250M - Dirt Bike - Default Store View
Thank your for your review about the bike.
I want to change informations and tricks about this bike.
My mods are:
ENGINE PERFORMANCE- I change the rear 51 teeth rear spocket for a 42 to make it longer the transmission
CARBURETTION Keihin 30mm PD – I change the main jet to 105# and Pilot Jet to 36#, and the needle is in 5th position from the top
Exhaust – I cut 15cm from the exhaust tip, to make it smaller, and cut 2cm in the exhaust tube.
Clutch – I put 2mm rings in the clutch springs to make them harder.
Rear Link System – the problem there is that the holes in the link, and the anchor holes in the frame and top and down of the rear shock have 12mm in hole, but the bolts use there have 11.8mm.
You must open them to 13mm and put a small tube with 13mm out and 11.8mm inside, to all work tight.
The bold that take the rear swingarm, have a big gap too, so, you have to have the same thing as the rear link, open the holes in frame, and using small tube to make it all tight too.
The rear shock - Come without any oil, so I give it to an expert to open it up, and put it working, the inside seals are all wrong as stock, so it change them, and use different valves, so that now, the shock works good and the adjustables screws work too.
Front shock – The front shock is very hard, and don’t read the floor in dirt. I open it up, and inside I only find 3 diferent springs, no oil inside, and did not find any kind of seals, so I don’t understand how did you put oil inside it.
Wheel Bars – You can use a rubber pice with 4/5mm to put between the towers of the wheel bar, to have out vibration, and use a piece of rubber on the bolt that tight the rear exhaust tip to take off vibrations too.
The air box – I make small hole on it too.
Brakes – My brakes are very bad, maybe you get your bike with the new brake pads with no aubestos compound, and it brake better. Mine does not brake very well in front, and the rear, almost does not do nothing. I made with 1mm metal some pieces with the draw of the pads, and now the brakes work little better.
Can you answer my questions?
Carburator – Did you still use the lateral valve of the carburator?
What Pilot jet you use, and using the main jet 100# ?
What position you use on the needle of the carburator ?
Front Shock – How, and were did you put the oil in the front shock?
Motor - Don´t you have a funny noise from the gears? it shows more with the motorcycle runing wen you take out gas, like something scraping inside the gears. I try to use a 15w 40 oil, but it still does the same thing.
Clutch - Does your clutch work ok? Wen i try to make a wheely, i can let go the clutch very fast that, the bike does not make a jump forward, it seems that the plates always leet go some of the power, i dont see this on the air cooled chinese engines, why does a loncin 3 generation does this? I try a thin spacers on the clutch springs, make it better, but not ok.
My best regards for all.
I have a Atomik Blitz 250 show in this link - Blitz250M - Dirt Bike - Default Store View
Thank your for your review about the bike.
I want to change informations and tricks about this bike.
My mods are:
ENGINE PERFORMANCE- I change the rear 51 teeth rear spocket for a 42 to make it longer the transmission
CARBURETTION Keihin 30mm PD – I change the main jet to 105# and Pilot Jet to 36#, and the needle is in 5th position from the top
Exhaust – I cut 15cm from the exhaust tip, to make it smaller, and cut 2cm in the exhaust tube.
Clutch – I put 2mm rings in the clutch springs to make them harder.
Rear Link System – the problem there is that the holes in the link, and the anchor holes in the frame and top and down of the rear shock have 12mm in hole, but the bolts use there have 11.8mm.
You must open them to 13mm and put a small tube with 13mm out and 11.8mm inside, to all work tight.
The bold that take the rear swingarm, have a big gap too, so, you have to have the same thing as the rear link, open the holes in frame, and using small tube to make it all tight too.
The rear shock - Come without any oil, so I give it to an expert to open it up, and put it working, the inside seals are all wrong as stock, so it change them, and use different valves, so that now, the shock works good and the adjustables screws work too.
Front shock – The front shock is very hard, and don’t read the floor in dirt. I open it up, and inside I only find 3 diferent springs, no oil inside, and did not find any kind of seals, so I don’t understand how did you put oil inside it.
Wheel Bars – You can use a rubber pice with 4/5mm to put between the towers of the wheel bar, to have out vibration, and use a piece of rubber on the bolt that tight the rear exhaust tip to take off vibrations too.
The air box – I make small hole on it too.
Brakes – My brakes are very bad, maybe you get your bike with the new brake pads with no aubestos compound, and it brake better. Mine does not brake very well in front, and the rear, almost does not do nothing. I made with 1mm metal some pieces with the draw of the pads, and now the brakes work little better.
Can you answer my questions?
Carburator – Did you still use the lateral valve of the carburator?
What Pilot jet you use, and using the main jet 100# ?
What position you use on the needle of the carburator ?
Front Shock – How, and were did you put the oil in the front shock?
Motor - Don´t you have a funny noise from the gears? it shows more with the motorcycle runing wen you take out gas, like something scraping inside the gears. I try to use a 15w 40 oil, but it still does the same thing.
Clutch - Does your clutch work ok? Wen i try to make a wheely, i can let go the clutch very fast that, the bike does not make a jump forward, it seems that the plates always leet go some of the power, i dont see this on the air cooled chinese engines, why does a loncin 3 generation does this? I try a thin spacers on the clutch springs, make it better, but not ok.
My best regards for all.
