2008 Atomik Blitz 250 review

[VEE8SS]

sorry for the bad spelling in that last post.... it's getting late! anyway also wondering thumpa if you could possibly try the YZ seat on it aswell as mine lifts at the front when i sit on it casue it has chewed out the plastic that it slides into and then i have access to better seat covers aswell. thanks

 

[thump*140]

hi, just wondering if the YZF side plastics will fit aswell.
Yeah so woudl be very helpful if anyone can check and tell me if the side covers will fit aswell. Also i find the fork's on mine to be very stiff and it takes it out of me over rough trails, will changing the fork oil help this???

also when you say shortening the muffler you mean drilling ut the rivets and taking the end plate out and cutting the muffler down then re drilling and riveting the end cap back on??? I pulled mine off tonite and help it up to the light i can't even see through it at all??? should i be able to? i thought they would eb a straight through design????

also will any type of pro tapers fit??? i wanna upgrade thanks

Ok i'm not entirely sure if the YZF plastics fit the Mikilons with the CRF style plastic. I know for a fact that the YZF plastics are a direct bolt on to the Atomik Blitz, with the exception of the side plates. I didnt have spare side plates from the 450, so didnt try them. they look slightly different where they cover the airbox, but they *may* fit. Everything else, from the front guard, to the rear guard is a straight bolt on replacement, including the fork guards. (Fork guards a good one to do, as the stock Atomik/Mikilon foul the fork action, and actually prevent smooth movement of the fork travel)

As for the forks, stay tuned to this channel... only last night i have tried to sort the action out on these forks, and the fork caps are a weird, weird set up. They have some sort of automatic spring preload set-up, and for the life of me, after changing the oil, i havent been able to get the rebound to work properly, and they are extending waaaay too slowly, and sucking air through the fork cap somehow... (?????) subsequently i'm taking the suspension in for a fork revalve, and the rear shock to be resealed this week, and will give an update as to how it went, and what was done...
The muffler.... Yep, what you've described is exactly what i've done. Drill out the end cap rivets, remove end cap, cut off 125mm then redrill the holes, and rivet the end cap back on. It's a very simple process, and going by the official "seat-of-the-pants" dyno run, allows it to breathe a hell of a lot better. When used in conjunction with a Flatslide carby, it really brings the Gen 3 Loncin alive, and solves the dead top-end feel that the stock 30mm pumper carby provides. Probably looking at a 2-3hp increase, and it provides a much broader spread of power up top, whilst not losing much down low.. and yeah, they are a straight through design. The bend of the mid pipe is what stops light from coming through..
i'll throw some pics up later of the muffler mod...
Handlebars, yeah any pro-taper bars of the same diameter will fit, it's just a matter of finding a bend that suits you. i'm still on my stock bars, but then i havent dropped it yet either, so cant comment on their strength. I can say that the things dont flex much though, which adds the body pummelling that the forks do to your arms..

anyway also wondering thumpa if you could possibly try the YZ seat on it aswell as mine lifts at the front when i sit on it casue it has chewed out the plastic that it slides into and then i have access to better seat covers aswell. thanks

As for whether the YZF seat fits, i'll have a look tonight. They look similar, but i'll swap em over to confirm if they are interchangeable...

watch this space...

 

[VEE8SS]

Thanks alot for the info. I will post up some pics in a minute of the bike stripped down so you can see the fuel tank and mite be able to give me an idea of if the hole's look similar. there is actually more bolt holes under the CRF style plastics which leads me to beleive that this may be a universal tank that they fit to all 250 loncin engines china bikes? could be wrong though.

How much would i be looking at for a carby like the one you have used???? and where would i source one from? also do you think getting rid of the stadard air box for a filter like you mentioned would be a better setup even with the standard carby as my airbox is just plain crap and doesn't fit the side cover/lid back on afetr cleaning without a whole lot of screwing around. so i was going to fab up a aluminum box setup and make my own filter for it. but if a simple pod style filter will work well then i won't bother.

 

[thump*140]

so far i've found the 26mm OKO Flatslide to offer marked improvements, but so far, that has only been up and down the driveway.. ha ha! I'll be trying the 28mm shortly, see if that's better again, with the bigger motor...
The OKO flatslide carby is available from DHZ on ebay, or if you click on the PitsterPro links right here on the forum, you'll be able to find something.
I think my last flatslide cost me about $120 delivered, so it's pretty cheap performance. As for the airbox Vs pod filter argument, i would have preferred to have kept the airbox, particularly as the bike is used more as a trailbike than a mini would be... however, space, airbox boot routing, and Carby external diameters were all preventative issues... if you have the skills, you can probably make an airboot for it, and a better airbox, so far i havent had the time to source the materials, let alone fabricate an airbox boot...
As for the tank, yeah i cant really see them tooling up two different tanks, for the same bike but with different plastics... but yes, pics will help.

 

[VEE8SS]

here is the pics of my bike stripped back to the frame, from the other day when i had it still semi-resembling a bike. now it is just a bare frame so i can drop it off to mate thats a panel beater who is going to spray it in gloss black with liberal coats of clear to help prevent scratch's in the future.

 

[thump*140]

yeah it looks like they use the same tank for both the CRF and YZF plastic-ed bikes... so good to go with the addition of the 06 YZF placcies...
while you have the frame stripped down, may i suggest bending up and welding some radiator support brackets???
Those things will fold like paperclips the first chance they get, and the only replacement ones i've seen are $300 plus to replace...
Remember to post up pics once she's painted and tarted up!!
would be good to get a few other owners Blitzes in here.

 

[VEE8SS]

cool, I've always wanted a blue yamaha YZ, glad the plastics will fit. I know i'm probably a knob but i have never really liked the CRF loook whether it's a real honda or not. I am married with a mortgage and 2 kids so i really didn't have the cash to spare for a "real" one. and seeing as i hadn't ridden for like 8 years i thought this would be good for some funa nd i was correct. I must say if anyone is looking for a bike similar to the atomik I would recommend the mikilon as they have a full 12 month warranty and i have already had a fork seal blow 4 months after owning it and i just slid the fork off put it in a postal tube and i got it back a few days later all fixed! he is also bringing a new 350 in that has double overhead cams and alot of better features that will be priced around the 2500-2800 mark.

Peter that brings them in actually fly's over to hong kong and puts in his order's and choose's what upgrades go into "his bikes" as he explained there is several different level's of quality in the parts that ou can get and still end up with the same bike. he also has 4 kids that test them out on his farm for him. and I saw one of his son's jump a very large set of double's on the exact same bike as mine! I was impressed.

Anyway enough of my rambling on. I will go order some 06 YZF plastics for it and get to sanding that frame back!

by the way thump did you end up getting a chance to see if the seats were similar??? thanks mate

 

[thump*140]

Yeah thats the great thing about the Blitzes, for someone wanting to get into, or back into bikes such as yourself, and dont have the spare funds to warrant a jap bike, or want to dive into the big question mark that is a cheap, old and secondhand jap bike of unknown history, they are a great buy, and with a bit of work, can be made into a good little performer.
The majority of the mods that help this particular bike can be done at home, either very cheaply or for free, and the big mods like suspension, can markedly improve an already cheap bike, for under $400..

and yeah, the option of being able to turn your "20-footer" CR-F into a YZF with a few screws, is a handy bonus if you dont like homo hondas. ha ha.

i'm sorry Vee8SS i ran out of time last night, and didnt get a chance to check the seats for "swappability".. will post up in here as soon as i get a spare five minutes to check them out.

 

[VEE8SS]

thanks mate, would be a great help. does your seat lift at the front at all when sitting on the bike??? when i removed my seat i saw that the bit in the seat where it slides onto the tank was cracked so it doesn't hold down properly. anyway good to get some ideas about what to do next.

I found those carb's you mentioned on ebay, do you reckon i should go the 28mm over the 26mm???? it is lie 189 for the 28mm and 109 for the 26mm. price doens't bother me if it is going to be better???

 

[thump*140]

Yeah my seat doesnt shift at all when sitting on the bike... sounds like you might need to get some thin metal/alloy plate, and bend up some new tangs to go under the seat base to hold it in place of the cracked original..

as for which carby would better suit the blitz, 26 or 28, i cannot confirm that as yet, becuase i have only tried and tuned the 26 on mine... Theoretically, the 250cc engine has the breathing capability to perform better with the 28mm, particularly if used in conjunction with the shortened muffler and airbox mods. Mind you, that's theoretical, not a practical advice. Until i can confirm it, i wont suggest which one.
Keep in mind that when you change to a flatslide, if you do, you will need to find yourself a much longer throttle cable than what the carbies come with, as they're too short to fit the Blitz... dont reach the carby... i've used the standard throttle cable, with the secondary pumper cable removed, but it's a pig of a cable, and has a very stiff throttle pull. (hmm, that sounds a bit wrong...)
a single strand cable (as found on 99% of bikes) will be a much better option.... just make sure it's as long, or longer than the standard one...
when i have a bit of time, i'll be trying the 28mm on mine... when that's done, i'll post some results in here and let you know which is better, but i can say that the 26mm Flatslide is a MUCH better carby, and offers a marked increase over the standard Fakuni pumper carby.. you wont go wrong with either the 28 or the 26mm...

 

[thump*140]

Anyway enough of my rambling on. I will go order some 06 YZF plastics for it and get to sanding that frame back!

by the way thump did you end up getting a chance to see if the seats were similar??? thanks mate

ok, did some tinkering and measuring in the shed, Yes the YZF plastics will fit the CRF plastic-ed Mikilon, and yes, the YZF 450 (06) model seat lines everywhere it should on the Blitz/Mikilon.
It's slightly narrower where it rides up the tank, so the Blitz/Mikilon radiator shrouds will stick out a tiny bit more than what they do with the standard seat, but at the end of the day, all the Yamaha 06-08 YZF plastics and seat will fit.


Hope that helps.

 

[user 9190]

anyone had issues with the carby/throttle? The carby has this retarded 2 cable system. Looking at maybe replacing the whole set up with a mikuni or something with one cable so I can get a decent throttle handle. the current one goes both backwards and forwards and is loose as shit.

Anyone got any advice as far as replacing the carb goes?

 

[DvDRip]

I'd go with a 28mm oko flatslide, i've got the the 26mm on my 140 and it rips, very well built and easy to work on too

 

[thump*140]

anyone had issues with the carby/throttle? The carby has this retarded 2 cable system. Looking at maybe replacing the whole set up with a mikuni or something with one cable so I can get a decent throttle handle. the current one goes both backwards and forwards and is loose as shit.

Anyone got any advice as far as replacing the carb goes?

hey mate, yeah the carby and throttle issues with this bike are pretty well documented throughout this thread, and if you read up a bit, you'll see that i've posted a pretty good solution as far as carbies go.
Theoretically, the carby on the Blitz as fitted standard should be good... 30/26mm pumper carby... in reality, it's quite gay, and severely limits the power of the motor high in the revs...
The second cable you mentioned, is the cable that actuates the pumper.. both cables attach to the carby... The cable set-up also contributes to the Blitz having a really gay throttle action and makes it pretty stiff to turn the throttle.
so far the best solution i have found is to:
Replace the carby with an OKO 26mm Flatslide. (i've done this to mine, works very well and gets rid of the top end dead spot, particularly if you take 125mm off the end of the muffler)
Replace the throttle with a 1/4 throttle which you can find on ebay quite easily.
Replace the throttle cable. Keep in mind you will need a long one to stetch round the bars and under the tank. 115cm+ long.

As my esteemed colleague DVDRip has pointed out, you can go with a 28mm OKO, which in theory should work a little better than the 26mm, given the Blitz has the breathing capability and cubic capacity to warrant it, but they ARE harder to tune. I am yet to swap carbies over to try my 28mm Flatslide on it, but will be doing so this weekend, and will be able to report how suitable and effective they are as a replacement for the stock mikuni pumper.
Go back through this thread, you will find a lot of useful tips and hints into turning this bike into a much better performer.

 

[user 9190]

thanks man....read this whole thing a while back but the carby tips may not have been in here yet.

 

[thump*140]

all good mate, the updates in here bout the carbies are only recent additions, and so far seem to be the missing link in making the Blitz, or more particularly the Gen 3 loncin 250 into a better performer.
Keep an eye on the thread mate, got a heap of testing lined up for th Blitz over the long weekend, which will include various carby swaps, tuning and modified suspension reviews...

 

[thump*140]

Just a couple of pics to update...
First shows the shortened muffler, which is 125mm shorter than the stock one below it... worth the 15 minutes it takes to cut it down, with little to no appreciable increase in volume. Note changes a bit, makes it a bit "sharper''...

second pic is the OKO flatslide fitment... bit hard to tell from a picture, but this is a real squeezy fit... you can see the shock mount in the top centre of the pic... So throw a shock in there, gives you some idea of the lack of space... Still worth the dicking around, and the necessity of pulling a fair bit of the bike apart to get the thing in there....

 

[frank]

ive got an atomik blitz
ive done a few things
put a gold honda cr500 wheel on the front, i had to change the dick brake to the atomik one, the wheel and disk brake fit stright on.
i had this xl350 in the back yard had sum custom exhaust and that fit stright on except i had to make a brcket,
ive put a light on
done the valve clearences
im lookingg for a better swing arm and back wheel
after i put the exhaust on and done the valves got shit loads of power and snapped the sprocket clean off the hub
but i want to sell it as i want a bike that an do mx on i went t the track twice and its not good for it, its was to heavy you get thrown around to much and the shocks are terrible and i get killed by all the big boys on there crf250s nd shit lol
but its a bit of fun
i wanna sell it for 700

 

[frank]

oh and sorry for the spelling

 

[DvDRip]

ive got an atomik blitz
i had to change the dick brake to the atomik one,

umm so how does this dick brake work, same principle as the heel of your shoe on a push bike tire? that's gotta hurt lol