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You will only need that drill bit if you are using a Champion thread insert.

A Helicoil kit comes with a drill bit

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ok, i didn't think of that.

Yeah a 14.5mm reduced shank drill bit should be ok, it will just have .1mm less thread on each side of the case where the Helicoil screws into, compared to the supplied 14.3mm bit in the Helicoil set..
Does the Supplier recommend you Loctite the Helicoil into the case too ?
 
ok, i didn't think of that.

Yeah a 14.5mm reduced shank drill bit should be ok, it will just have .1mm less thread on each side of the case where the Helicoil screws into, compared to the supplied 14.3mm bit in the Helicoil set..
Does the Supplier recommend you Loctite the Helicoil into the case too ?

Actually it looks like I can get a 14.3mm from that supplier, I've asked them what diameter it's reduced down to, but I still feel like it'll be pretty big diameter.

The drill bit along with a helicoil kit comes to $44.30... So maybe i'd just be better off buying your case?
 
Well I want to get a new throttle & clutch cables,

My throttle inner cable end to end is 96/97cm... I can't really find any suitable cables on eBay, Craig or someone else, could you point me in the right direction?


The threaded end looks the same as mine
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Also, what size exhaust gasket would I need?
 
My throttle cable outer is 860mm, with 10cm of travel


I measured up my clutch cable as 104cm, I actually bought this cable here a while back:
106cm Clutch Cable 125cc 150cc 140cc 250cc Dirt PIT PRO Bike Trail ATV Quad Dune | eBay

I could never get it to work, I think I ran out of thread or something... Maybe I was just putting it on wrong as it was a while back, I'll give it another go when I get the motor together.

Thanks, exhaust gasket ordered :)
 
Just took off the old piston as the new one arrived today... It looks like the exhaust valve has been hitting a bit.. Pics will show it, have I done much damage to my valves?


Can you tell how old that is? probably happened when I first got the bike, from the previous owner.. although i would've thought it would be covered in carbon by now

Also, how'd you go with that crank case craig, has the money come in yet?
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You're right, the valve shouldn't have been touching the piston
to check and see if either or just the exhaust valve is bent, loosen off the rocker arm adjustment at the valves.

Then f you hold the head in your hand with the valves facing up, (check both valves are closed) if not turn the cam over.
Then pour some kero into the combustion chamber and see if it leaks out quickly.

To check the valve is straight, roll the valve shaft along a piece of glass, with the head hanging over the edge.
You'll see the valve head wobble as it turns.

if you need a new valve i have one here that i can send to you.
 
You're right, the valve shouldn't have been touching the piston
to check and see if either or just the exhaust valve is bent, loosen off the rocker arm adjustment at the valves.

Then f you hold the head in your hand with the valves facing up, (check both valves are closed) if not turn the cam over.
Then pour some kero into the combustion chamber and see if it leaks out quickly.

To check the valve is straight, roll the valve shaft along a piece of glass, with the head hanging over the edge.
You'll see the valve head wobble as it turns.

if you need a new valve i have one here that i can send to you.

Does it have to be kero? can still run down to the supermarket... or will petrol or alcohol be fine?
 
Does it have to be kero? can still run down to the supermarket... or will petrol or alcohol be fine?
petrol, something viscus and water is usually pretty thick.. petrol is what i use.. its only a indicator anyway.
 
Bought some kero anyway, They seemed alright, I didn't have the spark plug in so it ran out the hole, should I put the plug in and test again?

The exhaust valve did seem fine anyway, I tilted it that way and the kero seemed to happily sit there for the 30 seconds or minute I checked it
 
it might have been touching with the timing chain being out a couple of teeth ?
sounds like the valve might be ok then
 
Yeah that may actually be what it was, I remember when the timing kept getting stuck at a certain point... do you remember that? When I stripped both the stator plate screws.... I think that maybe the getting stuck was actually the valve hitting the piston, I remember I had it idling after that and heard a slight rattle in the engine, never rode it on it though I think...

Either way, i'll go re-test it later to double check..

Craig has the funds gone into your account yet/gotten around to posting it? not really in any rush


Cheers
 
Just checked again and valves seem fine, keep happily sat there for about 10 minutes without leaking
 
About to confuse everyone... Heli-coiling the cam chain tensioner plug... i received my reduced shank drill bit today to initially drill it out to 14.3mm...

So, How far do I drill in, how far do I tap the new thread and how far do I install the helicoil?

Say I drill and rethread a fair way up, If I only scren the helicoil in so it's just deeper than flush... Once I screw the bolt in will the bolt then continue to screw in the helicoil or will the heli-coil stay?

Hopefully some of that made sense... Cheers
 
The helicoil should be screwed in so it sits flush with the case.
 
So should I only drill and tap a thread as long as the helicoil plus a few mm for safe measure? Or can I drill and tap a decent amount and the helicoil won't move or go anywhere?
 

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