Boingk's SDB Enduro Pro 250cc (Aircooled)

[boingk]

Here we go guys, arrived the other day so tore the cardboard off and had a quick squiz:

The front wheel and handlebar need fitting, and I'll be Loctiting and lubing pretty much everything before riding. The oil will be changed out for 10W-40 Gulf Western diesel oil and the sump flushed and oil changed again after the first 10 minutes or so or riding.

I'll post over the next week or so with more detail of assembly, pre-ride prepping and then finally how she performs offroad.

Cheers - boingk

 

[SwapperMX]

Diesel oil, you serious dude ?? What is tha gonna do to the clutch and gearbox ??

 

[zwebx]

Diesel oil, you serious dude ?? What is tha gonna do to the clutch and gearbox ??

As long as it is not friction modified nor does it foam up it should be okay...
i run desiel oil in a industrial 4t engine but am not planning to do that to my pitty

 

[motodevo]

yeh i wouldn't put in any oil that doesn't say that it is specific for motorcycles, pretty much any oil designed for a car has friction modifyers(make your clutch slip), for the small cost of oil its worth getting the right stuff and changing it often(especially when brand new)

 

[boingk]

Diesel oil, you serious dude ?? What is tha gonna do to the clutch and gearbox ??

Probably exactly the same as it does for my road bikes; make them shift smoothly and run well.

Seriously, standard diesel oil is quite good for bikes. Delo 400 and Gulf Western 'Top Dog' are two brands I recommend. If they smooth out the cranky, clunky gearbox of a VTR1000 then they'll work well in anything.

The reason its good is high detergency (keeps engine clean), superior load ratings (resists thermal breakdown longer) and higher levels of zinc and phosphorus (these compounds help protect your engine but are being reduced in many modern oils to keep catalyzers happy).

Cheers - boingk

 

[Blender]

looks good mate, im gettin one soon i'll come and race ya!! oh and btw im loving the 'menstor' stickers mate....its....its a good look

 

[GooseMan]

Probably exactly the same as it does for my road bikes; make them shift smoothly and run well.

Seriously, standard diesel oil is quite good for bikes. Delo 400 and Gulf Western 'Top Dog' are two brands I recommend. If they smooth out the cranky, clunky gearbox of a VTR1000 then they'll work well in anything.

The reason its good is high detergency (keeps engine clean), superior load ratings (resists thermal breakdown longer) and higher levels of zinc and phosphorus (these compounds help protect your engine but are being reduced in many modern oils to keep catalyzers happy).

Cheers - boingk

This man has done his home work, lol.
Bike looks good to mate.

 

[boingk]

Thanks mate, better now she is together:

Got her idling okay and changed the oil. Loctite and lube were used liberally throughout. I'll post more photos later, especially the rear shock link and front wheel spacers.

Cheers - boingk

 

[Blender]

hey mate, just wondering, whats the feel of the forks ?
im really keen on one of these, so im tryin to get as much info in it as possible. im sure u understand. please tell us all of which is good and bad!
cheers,
jack

 

[boingk]

Hey Jack, I haven't had her out and about yet but it feels fine to sit on. 30-40mm of sag with my 95kg frame on it and some preload dialed in.

From all accounts YZF400 forks bolt up to the front so replacement isn't an issue if it comes to that.

- boingk

 

[Blender]

cheers mate, i was thinking of the same thing with the yz front end. shame its such a biatch to do the linkages tho. i suppose if you were to get the exhaust done professionally it wud work. also have you got any mods planned?

 

[boingk]

Mods list so far includes:

1 - Upgraded carby (OKO 26 ~ 32mm)
2 - Exhaust core removal
3 - Airbox modification

I'm also thinking of removing the stock electric starter and battery. They're both not needed as she kicks over easily and would save a fair bit of weight.

Cheers - boingk

EDIT: Basically... cheap stuff. The carby would be the 'big ticket item', it runs $70 shipped via eBay and the 26mm unit is apparently a bolt on.

 

[Blender]

yea mate the 26 i'm pretty sure comes with a rubber adapter to clamp on to your inlet manifold and then bolts on too your carb. what jets are you gonna run? and the thing should kick over pretty easily, i was surprised at the such low compression isn't it like 9.0:1? i would understand on the air-cooled version, but the water-cooled is the same?? and yea with the air-box cut some bigger intake holes. with the exhaust why don't you look at a yz header pipe and muffler. I've seen a few on eBay from wrecking bikes, so there out there. not sure of the performance it would pick up though.

 

[nickv1980]

yep a 26mm oko will bolt up

 

[Blender]

here you go!
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/YAMAHA-Y..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item3384b8f713&_uhb=1

 

[Blender]

here you go!
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/YAMAHA-Y..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item3384b8f713&_uhb=1

 

[monsterpitbike96]

the 250's look sweet as i'd buy one but id rather a second hand yzf250 to be honest how much did the 250 cost brand new ?

 

[Blender]

there 1349 new mate. thats for the aircooled one (which apparently goes a bit harder, due to being able to have bigger valves as theres no water port) and 1500 for the watercooled version. delivery varies from where you are.

 

[zwebx]

there 1349 new mate. thats for the aircooled one (which apparently goes a bit harder, due to being able to have bigger valves as theres no water port) and 1500 for the watercooled version. delivery varies from where you are.

also means you can port until your happy with it without having to worry about port wall thickness so much
+install valves as large as the bore (if there is enough room between them)

 

[Blender]

^^yeh thats the only downside to watercooled....