Ciniworx CXZ175 Review is Finally Here!!

Mini Dirt Bikes & Pit Bikes Forum

Help Support Mini Dirt Bikes & Pit Bikes Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
ok, from memory when i did my frame there was only front tank mounts, they may however have a rubber stretch clamp on the rear like most yammies do.. gen ttr's have them also..

but its not uncommon for them to have nothing as the seat and plastics keep the rear of the tank still.

There's nothing to attach the front of the seat to the rear of the tank ... OR the front of the seat to the top of the subframe ... It looks like a metal plate with a round part sticking up for the seat to slot over is supposed to screw to the back of the tank ... there's 3 riv nuts moulded into the tank ... so there's nothin' to stop the seat from flopping up and down at the front ... OR the tank from flopping up at the rear and tearing the riv nuts out of the front of it ... :hache: ...

As for the LHS side cover ... the rear top hole doesn't align with the seat bracket ... It's right in between the seat bolt and the rear guard mount bolt ... I've tried flexing the mongrel back but I can't get the seat bolt in straight and started on the threads ... I'll have to get a longer bolt and screw it in from the inside to the outside of the subframe to act as a stud ... then I'll be able to force the side cover on and hold it on with a washer and nut ...

It's no big deal ... just a PITA as I wanted to get the bike together in time to go riding at Pacific Park with the family ... I also didn't get a swingarm pivot bolt with the frame ... or a brake lever which is designed to suit those frames ... :cursing:

The pivot bolt is a long 12 mm bolt like a 12 mm rear axle ... I only got a 15 mm rear axle and spacers ...

The swinger looks like it's had battery acid spilt on it and came with no axle blocks ...
 
Check out how Yamaha has mounted their TTR90 tank and seat then you'll see how dopily the Chinese have mounted theirs ... They can't even copy something properly ... The front of the tank should be designed to pivot on flexible rubber mounts ... NOT be rigidly mounted by 4 screws screwed 4 to 5 mm into aluminium nut-serts that are only in reality designed to mount non stressed plastic tank shrouds to ...

The chinese CRF frames have a far superior method of mounting their tank and seat ...

2007 Yamaha TTR90EW TTR90 OEM Parts, 2007 Yamaha TTR90EW TTR90 OEM Motorcycle Parts - BikeBandit.com
 
My rear of the tank mounts to the frame (same holes as the rear of the shrouds) , and the front of the seat slides into the back of the tank , with a piece like number 29 in that diagram.
 
sounds like you got some troubles cactus.. im not even going to ask where you got this setup from..

but if your referring to the swing arm-frame bolt i used a 12mm axle bolt.
and for the rear brake pedal i ordered a dhz peg mount kit which came with a brake pedal that was easily modded.
 
HD Footpeg Mount , Rear Brake Pedal Kit - DHZ Mini Moto

thats the footpegs and brake pedal im using on my setup... the peg mounts went on my 10' build...
anyways.. all i had to do was cut the long extention bit off and flatten the pedal out, then weld a section on to attach to the master... pretty easy really.. oh and i cut down an old piston pin to use for a sleeve where it bolts on..

if ya need pics i can provide..
 
Thanks for that info Sean ... It's greatly appreciated ...

The cut down 14 mm gudgeon pin is a great idea ... I've already got a few pegbar and brake lever kits including 5 DHZ kits off various models plus a few different extra brake levers ... and several billet levers for CRF frames ...

A DHZ Monster brake lever doesn't need to be cut down ... just straightened out and probably shortened a bit ...

A billet lever made for these frames would be the go for the bling look though ... The stock levers look cheap and nasty to say the least ... LOL ...
 
just got one of the last fo these bikes so hapy but there is a distincted rattle anyone else have this problem

The rattle noise has been discussed in another thread ... It's caused by piston slap due to the Chinese using a piston with the wrong clearance in a ceramic bore ...

They may very well have HAD to run that clearance to allow for expansion/contraction of their alloy cylinder ... When engineering a bore kit that runs no iron sleeve but nikasil coated onto the bare alloy ... You have to take into account how much the alloy cylinder will expand in proportion to the piston ...

My bet is that due to the fact that these engines are air cooled , they can't run tight enough piston to bore clearances to keep the cylinder to bore clearance to the minimum at full operating temperature ... The bore more than likely expands more than the cast piston does as the engine heats up so the operating clearance grows with the resultant rattle noise you're hearing ...

A forged piston running more static clearance would be better because the forged alloy being denser , expands at a greater rate than the cast alloy cylinder would ... So you'd clearance the piston to bore so that you achieve the minimal clearance at full operating temperature ... That means you'd have to put up with a rattle sound in a cold engine ... until it warms up ...

With a forged piston the fuel/air ratio would be more critical ... too lean a mixture and the piston could expand enough to seize in the bore ... I'm pretty sure Coolmodee had problems a few years ago with forged pistons seizing in ceramic bores ... and it would have been due to a combination of too little piston to bore clearance combined with excessive engine heat due to too lean an A/F ratio ...

Cast pistons run much tighter clearances than forged pistons because cast alloy has lower expansion ... When these new skirtless pancake pistons are used , the piston to bore clearance is even more critical than if a full skirt piston is used ... And maybe the Japs have also tinkered around with the alloy to control the expansion better than the usual forged piston material (Mahle alloy which Porsche used to use) ...

Ceramic bores should really only be used on water cooled engines where the cylinder expansion rate can be controlled much better ... otherwise you'd have to put up with the rattle noise which water filled jackets would tend to dampen out ...

As a note of point I see that twin oil coolers are used in most chinese bikes which run ceramic cylindered engines such as the 175z's ...

I've read where people were complaining because the chinese didn't listen to their requested jetting specs and supplied the bikes with bigger/richer jets ... Logically , they'd do that to keep the piston and bore cooler during run-in to minimise the expansion and therefore minimise the slap noise and also to prevent seizures caused by people thrashing their new engine ... So maybe the chinese aren't so ignorant after all ... but are merely just protecting themselves against a flood of complaints that they KNOW are likely to occur if they run the leaner jets ...

I know I'd make sure I ran a richer A/F ratio during run-in ...

The only REAL way to know for sure about the bore clearance thing would be to measure the temperature of a cylinder on a running engine ... then let it cool ... remove it and the piston ... measure the piston and bore diameters cold ... place them both in an oven to heat them both up to the measured operating cylinder temp ... then re-measure them to see if the piston to bore clearance changes ...

Iron cylinders and sleeves tend to hold their size and shape better than alloy ones ... that's why iron is used in heavy duty engines that are subject to high loads and heat ... Most OEM manufacturers choose to run iron cylinders on their air cooled horizontal engined production bikes ... and iron sleeved cylinders on their air cooled vertical engined bikes ...

Car manufacturers prefer to use cast pistons and iron cylinders or sleeves as well to avoid complaints from customers about piston noise during engine warm up ...
 
Highly doubt china have put any thought into anything..... iron cylinder or not etc....
 
That's what I'm saying ... Their ceramic cylinders are poorly thought out ... so thru trial and error they would have found that they need to sell their bikes with richer jetting to stop the cylinders from over heating and stuffing up ... No thought would have went into that ... it's a bandaid fix ...

So people over here try jetting their engines on the "edge" where max power is ... and cop the problems that the chinese covered up ... LOL ...

The iron cylinder thing refers to big manufacturers such as Honda , Yamaha , Kawasaki , Suzuki , Chevrolet , Case , GM Diesels including locomotives , truck manufacturers such as M.A.N etc etc ...

Have you ever noticed how NONE of the Jap manufacturers sell horizontal engined dirtbikes , step thru's , posty bikes etc with an alloy cylinder ? ... And I'm talking right back to 1970 ... There's a very good reason for that ... reliability , over heating and wear problems that would come back on them to bite them on the ass in the form of warranty claims if they used alloy cylinders ...
 
yeah akunar was going to send me some chrome bbk's to trial but during there own testing they weren't happy with them, and i was told these were better than any chrome bore on the market for china bikes..

so goes to show what rubbish is out there...
 
Nar I'm pretty sure they won't have them in the store until Feb 7th I think MXGIRL said somewhere.
 
I know this tread is old but i was looking into getting a cini but I noticed that there is no cover over the front sprocket... could this be a problem???
 

Latest posts

Back
Top