D-Pro en route. Pre-ride checklist

[RangaBlitzFanga]

Just want to make sure i'm not missing anything
Along with it I ordered

- Pro tapers
- Grips
- 120L DID gold chain (Do I need to take links out?)
- Unifilter
- 2x mineral oil
- Oil filter
- Air filter oil
- Hour meter

Procedure will be to crack open the crate and...
- Regrease shock mounts, all engine bolts, headstem bearings, axles, caliper slides
- Change over parts with what i've ordered
- Loktite most nuts/bolts except axles, triple clamps, handlebar bolts, engine cover bolts
- Install hour meter
- Drain oil it came with, replace with mineral oil
- Install front whel
- Using 2 syringes and 2 sets of hands, reverse bleed brakes (pushing fluid through the bleed nipple while sucking it out the top so it doesn't spill, without touching lever)

Drive it out to some fairly flat ground, follow 'break in secrets' procedure. Immediately dump the fresh mineral oil and change it again - use this 2nd batch for 5 hours? then switch to semi-synthetic
Then ride it as normal getting hard on the throttle but not reaching redline for the first 5 hours. After which give it hell as I normally would

Anything i'm missing?
Any recommended parts?
I'm thinking i'll install a cheap speedo/tacho computer (whats the redline on these bikes?)
Whats the recommended intervals for changing oil? 20 hours?

 

[zwebx]

the oil i would probably do about one hour on then wipe the big chunks of metal out and replace and then leave it in for 5 and then the norm after that

Whats the rev limit? Depends on the motor really what one are you talking about
maybe some spare levers would come in handy and a gear lever

 

[8r3nd0]

That's about it mate. You will need to take out links from memory to 104 links and the gold chains are a bugger may need to angle grind down both sides to remove.
I change my oil after every 3 hours of riding and only ever use mineral.
Id add a fuel filter, bifold levers and magnetic sump plug to the list.
Just remember to always kickstart from top dead centre even when you get the craps with it haha. Enjoy mate


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

 

[RangaBlitzFanga]

Ah yes I have a fuel filter on its way (decent one, not the 3 for $1 crap)
Levers I don't break often - been riding for well over a decade. Might just cut the balls off the end
If the stockers break i'll get some bi-folds
Magnetic sump is something i've been meaning to get but never got around to it. What size thread does it use?

I dont' believe in running mineral oil after break-in though. Semi-Synthetic deals with higher temperatures much better and doesn't break down anywhere near as quickly. There's still gears and clutch to consider and i'd rather better lubrication and longer life

Motor is the z160HO

 

[DHZ_XR8cing]

Check the Castle nut holding the clutch on. Best to remove it and loctite in on. They have been known to come loose.
Set valve clearances.
tighten spokes.

 

[zwebx]

Check the Castle nut holding the clutch on. Best to remove it and loctite in on. They have been known to come loose.
Set valve clearances.
tighten spokes.

if you have the time loctite the crank gear/primary drive gear on too thats how i got my atomik nitrous so cheap

 

[RangaBlitzFanga]

Check the Castle nut holding the clutch on. Best to remove it and loctite in on. They have been known to come loose.
Set valve clearances.
tighten spokes.

Lay bike on its side, remove left? side cover, remove basket cover, slide plates out, use a rag to wedge inner and outer clutch baskets and a socket wrench to remove the primary nut. That about the procedure?

if you have the time loctite the crank gear/primary drive gear on too thats how i got my atomik nitrous so cheap

different engines though? atomik uses the YX, DHZ uses the zHO. And from everything i've read the Zongshen has a better built bottom end. Still necessary? seems like a bit of work to get to it

 

[RangaBlitzFanga]

Oh BTW. DHZ, fastest postage EVER. Sent from Sydney on Friday, arrived in Cairns Monday morning

I've ran out of loktite and daylight so couldn't get to everything. Have noticed the wheels a little stiff and don't spin as freely as I feel they should. Did grease both axles, will they free up? not something that really bothers me but did notice it straight away

And clutch pull, it's very heavy for such a little engine. Worth lubricating the cable? or swap it for a hydraulic clutch? Thats something i'll sort out down the track. For now i'd like to do everything before I even rotate the engine to ensure it stays smooth and nicely maintained. I'm in no rush to fire it up immediately. So if there's anything that should be done, i'd like to hear about it
I'm about to write up a pre-ride spreadsheet and log book, only once everythings ticked off will it be fired up

 

[zwebx]

yeah lube the cable for sure, i like to do mine with grease so it stays in there...
greasing the axle does not do much, they will probably free up after a ride and the breaks get warn in nice and good

 

[Cordogs]

Careful not to over tighten your axles, that can cause your wheels to be stiff.

Also I've ordered two of these bikes now and both clutches have been a little stiff not sure why? Tbh I don't even notice it anymore...

 

[RangaBlitzFanga]

yeah lube the cable for sure, i like to do mine with grease so it stays in there...
greasing the axle does not do much, they will probably free up after a ride and the breaks get warn in nice and good

Graphite powder is the best for cables :thumbup:
Dry lube so dirt and dust doesn't stick to it, do all the locks in your house while you're at it

Now couple other things
Calipers, i'm working on the rear one at the moment. I'm sure i'll figure it out but at first glance I couldn't figure out how to remove the pads to to be able to grease the slides?

And secondly, someone on here wrote a review and suggested removing the baffle. I just put a baffle in my 250 and was surprised at how much it slowed down throttle response, impossible to chuck a wheelie. Again I believe i'll figure it out unless these are sealed units? in which case it can stay in

P.S. it definates pays to go over things. At first I thought these weren't too bad, there's at least some grease in most of the major areas. But nothing on say engine and shock mounting bolts, which even on a new bike you notice how much easier it is to remove/install them with some grease. It's an enormous PITA to remove them after a few months when they've practically seized and need to be belted out with a big hammer
Rear brake pedal pivot was the worst, it was actually rusty it felt very stiff, now its much much smoother. Can see why some people would have dragging brakes

 

[Cordogs]

I just packed the hell out of my baffle today, with no apparent loss of power and a far better note. Much deeper solid sound!

1. Unbolt the muffler from the bracket and take out the four screws.

2. Push the baffle from inside the alloy tube, you may need a couple of taps with a mallet or similar.
3. The inside tube and rear cap of the muffler should slide out the bottom end of the outer tube.

I find it easier to lift one side of the brake pad off first, making sure the piston is completely compressed first. It's a tight fit but it will come out! I also recommend the brass/copper type brake pads over the cheaper asbestos type, they may not last as long. But are a better pad by far!

Hope this helps!

 

[RangaBlitzFanga]

ok got the caliper slides greased, however upon removing the pads and that strange black thing (which is the slides) the gold.... thing.. fell out. Lot of things, i know

I can't figure out that gold piece in how it goes back in. Help please?

 

[RangaBlitzFanga]

I can't do this, I need help with this crappy little gold retainer. Here is the part in question

I've been at it on and off for hours and it just doesn't make sense.
There's the black slide which also holds the right brake pad. Now i've tried facing that part so the centre is facing to the left. There's even a groove which it kind-of sits in. That kind-of also throws me out
The problem is, if I butt those 4 little prongs up against the black slide and pad, then some metal exists between the pads and gets in the way of the brake disc. So it definately doesn't go that way
If I fit the prongs 'behind' the black slide then I can't fit the brake disc in, because it covers up the cut-outs which exist to house the brake pad

So I tried turning it around 180 degrees, so instead of it being concave inside the caliper, i.e. << it becomes convex i.e. <> that sort of seemed to work. It was VERY hard to get the left brake pad in, but it did go in and whilst exerting a lot of pressure, did not bend that part. The problem is it's causing a heck of a lot of drag in the rear wheel. This seems like the most 'correct' way but also incorrect because of way too much drag

I then tried turning it around so the centre piece is pointing towards the piston, it won't fit. I'm baffled. someone PLEASE tell me how it fits, precisely. I need to know where it sits in relation to everything else. The front caliper is completely different and doesn't help me