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my67xr

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i thought i'd make a thread for anyone wanting to convert their Ignition's to the Daytona / Lifan 150 Adjustable Outer Rotor set up on Zongshens etc



this is the basic Outer Rotor kit to suit a Daytona 150 / 190 or Lifan 150 that you'll need to do the conversion.
or you can buy the more expensive Genuine Daytona kit (2nd pic) which also has adjustable advance maps built into the CDI, and a rev limiter iirc for over 4 times the price
with the genuine Daytona kit you need to swap the wires around to change the advance maps





this is the main loom kit



and here is the Digital CDI (8 pin) that the kit uses



and a wiring diagram if anyone needs it






to fit this kit to a Z155Ho/Z160Ho, you will need to get the engine backing plates' stator mounting face machined back 3mm deeper to allow clearance for the Flywheel so it wont rub on the stator backing plate.
most machine shops will charge between $10 and $20 for the work.
the standard backing plate is the one on the right






there isn't a lot of clearance where the wiring runs between the stator and backing plate, so i chose to cut a little bit more away so there's no chance of it rubbing through the wiring
the bottom plate shown below is the standard/unmodified one
i marked it in blue where to cut it back, and used a 1mm cutting disc to get rid of the extra alloy, then file finished it




here it is fitted to the engine, you can see how the enlarged cutaway suit's the exit point better on the engine case



these pics show it fitted to the engine





this photo shows the clearance between the flywheel and stator plate






here are the things you'll need to set the ignition timing, a 12v battery and a timing light.
hook the timing light pickup lead to the coil lead, and connect it to the power source
a 12v car battery will work fine, or even an old plug pack 240v - 12v power supply or computer power supply.








i ran the bike for a bit before taking these pics, so it was warmed up and ready to adjust the timing
here is a video of it running, showing it set at about 12° BTDC at idle
and as the revs build up to around 3500-4000rpm it advances to 28° BTDC total.
although the video doesn't show it properly
click on the video to start it playing





Testing a Daytona / Lifan 150 Outer Rotor Stator
 
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To set it up standard, you just line up the little marking on the stator plate (bottom left, about 8 o'clock)
with the marking on the backing plate (8 o'clock)

you can see the red marking on my backing plate in the 4th pic down

on my lifan 150 i was able to give it full advance and it wouldn't ping, great for fast take offs
so i had the stator plate turned as far as it could go in the slots clockwise.
 
To set it up standard, you just line up the little marking on the stator plate (bottom left, about 8 o'clock)
with the marking on the backing plate (8 o'clock)

you can see the red marking on my backing plate in the 4th pic down

on my lifan 150 i was able to give it full advance and it wouldn't ping, great for fast take offs
so i had the stator plate turned as far as it could go in the slots clockwise.
Cheers craig, pulled me through again :) im thinking I will set it at stock, see how the kickback is on it and go from there. Thanks again mate
 
too easy,
mine didn't have any more kickback with it advanced, but the smaller flywheel helps out a lot too.

Why didn't you ask stoozo ? he has one on his bike
or were you afraid he might tell you the wrong thing, he is hopeless sometimes
 
next project (maybe a bit of a gimmick) . vortex on jap bikes and euro bikes have the set up. On the fly map switch selectable rpm . lm going to try jaycar they may have a selector rotary type switch they use . love to try it on the 190 . but only for a brief swirt. Don't want to cook it up.
 
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