genuine thumpstar 125 gearbox probs

Discussion in 'Chinese Mini's' started by hannesd, Sep 7, 2017.

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  1. Sep 7, 2017 #1

    hannesd

    hannesd

    hannesd

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    hi,
    my gearbox is very hard to shift from 1st gear to netral/2nd gear.
    is it worth tearing the engine apart to try and find the problem (bent shift fork i presume)?
    how much work is involved?
     
  2. Sep 8, 2017 #2

    AntNZ

    AntNZ

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    full tear down, head/cylinder and splitting cases required!
     
  3. Sep 8, 2017 #3

    hannesd

    hannesd

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    i feared so :-/
    and then there's the problem of finding the correct pieces, since there's so many versions of these engines...
    or can i just find them by using the engine number : 156FMI...?
     
  4. Sep 8, 2017 #4

    motodevo

    motodevo

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    If its got a 1N234 shift pattern then its a common issue, thats why most engines are now all up (N1234). There was a improved shift star available a few years ago from the US (SDG from memory) and swapping out the shift arm spring which improved the problem. I would take the clutch cover off and check your shift star is still torqued tight and your shift arm hasn't jumped the pins on the shift star and is sitting behind where it should be, i had that happen after i layed it down on the gear lever side Picture528.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2017
  5. Sep 9, 2017 #5

    hannesd

    hannesd

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    allright, will do that.
    i'll post back what i've found.
     
  6. Sep 10, 2017 #6

    hannesd

    hannesd

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    so what i've foud was the shape of the shift star that was making it hard to go from 1st to neutral.
    because i wanted to fix this instead of waiting and order that SDG shift star, i got to work with the dremel :p
    it now shifts pretty much ok, not perfect but doable :)
    the roller arm that holds the shift star in place was pushing too hard on the star + the shape of the star made it too hard.
    glad i didn't have to open up the engine! thanks to @motodevo for the golden tip :)
    now i can move on to setting that bike up right.

    cheers, Hannes.
     
  7. Sep 10, 2017 #7

    hannesd

    hannesd

    hannesd

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    are these thumpstar bikes chinese of japs? or do thupstars come with different kind of engines/quality?
    is it worth upgrading like bigger carb, 500gr flywheel?
     
  8. Sep 11, 2017 #8

    motodevo

    motodevo

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    They are chinese, they were the better quality chinese bikes in their day, but pretty much all use the same engines. Carb wise, dont go no bigger than a 26mm mikuni knock off for a 125 (most 125s run these anyway). I wouldn't waste any money on a lighter flywheel. Best bang for buck upgrade is a bigger motor, chinese motors are nice and cheap
     
  9. Sep 11, 2017 #9

    hannesd

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    i've got a lighter flywheel laying around on another engine i bought for pieces.
    is a lighter flywheel better or worse for overall performance on these engines.
    this thumpstar 125 has significantly more power/torque than my other lifan 125 engine...

    too bad that other engine's too much damaged, con rod bent, cilinderhead prettymuch destroyed from a broken off valve. it's a yx 140, rest of the bottom end should be fine.

    i might get a yx 160 of all else is upto spec (suspension-wise)
     
  10. Oct 3, 2017 #10

    hannesd

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    will a yx 160 engine even fit this lil' frame?
    will it bolt right up or need to reweld/ adjust hangpoint for the engine?
     
  11. Oct 5, 2017 #11

    gottagetacheaperhobby

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    Light weight flywheel
    Depends in what you mean there, the inner rotor kits are rather hit and miss from China, and can leave your crank unbalanced, which leads to very nasty snapped cranks. The lifan 150 adjustable stator or the zongshen 160ho stator are lighter than a stock 125 stator, but I'm not sure if they fit or not (never really played much with the lifan 125)
    Lighter flywheel does equal better response, and higher rpm, but at the cost of torque, hence the flywheel weights you can get for 2 strokes, a naturally low on torque engine.
    Engine swap
    Unsure on the exact frame your using, but I squeezed a 160ho into a crf50 based motovert frame no worries at all.
    Another option for engine is the gpx125 that dhz sell, hi comp square engine that revs to the moon and has an amazing punch for a 125, with the advantage of running a stronger bottom end than most other 125s. I've owned one, and apart from not having as much torque as the 160s its a pretty close comparison to them. In a light bike, it's the perfect engine IMO.

    Sent from my ALCATEL_4034A using Tapatalk
     
  12. Oct 14, 2017 #12

    rotn50

    rotn50

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    Lightened fly wheels (irk) aren't worth it. And on a start in neutral only bike (clutch on the crank) I have seen them destroy the clutch into thousands of pieces and also destroy the clutch case.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
     
  13. Oct 15, 2017 #13

    hannesd

    hannesd

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    nt an IRK but half the weight flywheel. don't want to loose too much torque.
    don't like the fact that the crank spins unbalanced without any FWW.
     
  14. Oct 15, 2017 #14

    hannesd

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    might aswell continue in this topic since it's my own on this genuine thumpstar :p
    i was wondering what tyres to fit on these 12" front and 10" rear wheels.
    i plan on riding all kinds of soil,including some gravel maybe, so hard knobbies will apply.
    please add size of the tyres too so i'll know exactly what to look for.
    current tyres are no good anyway for what i do.
    the back tyre will need to be wider.
    front i want sharp knobbies to grip in grass, mud...
    and while i'm at it :-D what sprocket setup is advised for offroad? don''t know what current is, but all is stock.
    [​IMG]
    this is the bike i'll be fitting them to.
    later on i might be upgrading the engine with a yx 160 or whatever is advised/available in the same price range...
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2017
  15. Oct 19, 2017 #15

    gottagetacheaperhobby

    gottagetacheaperhobby

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    I built a motovert frame (same size as yours) with a 160ho, was an animal :)
    Kenda washagual are the chunkiest 10 inch you can get i think, I ran a kenda milliville front, but can't remember the sizes sorry.

    Sent from my ALCATEL_4034A using Tapatalk
     
  16. Jan 1, 2018 #16

    rotn50

    rotn50

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    The gears still playing up?

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
     
  17. Jan 2, 2018 #17

    hannesd

    hannesd

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    all good now, worked the shift star myself,shifts nicely now, just a lil' harder to find neutral because of what i did with that shift star.
    one notch was too steep to go from 1st to neutral ,so i rounded that one off a bit to meke it less steep, so less pressure was needed to shift up from 1st to neutral.
     
  18. Jan 4, 2018 #18

    rotn50

    rotn50

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    Excellent. Also the lever with a hook either end that pushes the star gear can need removing and with a small round file make the hooks a tad sharper as sometimes the ends go blunt and don't push the star pins enough.

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
     

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