Going to try the new Hummer G4

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Hey Gents,

I'm having problems with my rear brake setup on my bike.
A little while ago the rear brake line copped a hole in it. So i removed it and have had it off for a while. I finally got a replacement yesterday and put it on.

Now the brakes won't actually compress??? I don't get it.
I filled it up with oil, made sure everything was in place right and still nothing.

I dont get what i'm doing wrong? Help would be much appreciated.
other than that, the bikes running pretty well :)

Matty
 
You have to bleed the air out of the brake line, fill the reservoir, pump the brake lever a few times, and hold it down, then open the bleeder nipple on the rear calipiers a little and let some fliud out, and repeat till no more air an the brakes feel normal, best to have a clear hose over the nipple to a jar or container with a little brake fliud in the jar as if you slip a little on the brake lever it wont suck air back into the line
 
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I tried filling up the reservior, then pumping the brakes to push it through but got nothing. Then i tried opening that little nipple thing and pumping the brakes again but could only hear air pushing out???
 
Hi Matty,

That nipple you refer to is indeed the bleed valve and you have to do the following:

1. Fill the reservoir
2. Open the bleed valve a little - keeping the spanner ready on the nipple
3. Press the brake lever down and keep the pressure on the pedal at the bottom of it's travel.
4. As you do this, air will come out of the nipple
5. When the brake reaches the bottom of it's travel - close the bleed nipple
6. When the bleed nipple is closed, release the brake
7. When the spring returns the brake lever back to the top, open the nipple again and repeat the cycle.
8 Keep doing this until you just get fluid with no air coming out of the nipple - then close it off and you're finished.

There's a bit of a technique to it - but you'll get the hang of it in the end.

Alternatively, you can spend a few bucks on a brake bleeding device which connects to the bleed valve. This makes the whole process a lot easier.
 
Just bought 2 complete Hummer plastic kits off e-bay for $25.

Best thing was that the second kit was black - which means you can buy the large white competition numbers and stick them straight onto the side and front panels - and you just gotta love the price!

Yeah Weeg - everyone loves a Hummer!
 
Resolution of a squeeky shock

I've been bugged by a squeeky shock on the Hummer for weeks.

Finally I got really fed-up and bought a replacement shock from Dreamrider.

I fitted the replacement shock to the bike on the week-end and guess what? - I still had the bloody squeek!

I took a closer look at what was going on and finally twigged the problem.

There was nothing wrong with the shock - other than it was chaffing on the frame as the suspension moved up and down.

I used a drilled out stainless washer as a spacer and added a little grease to fix the problem.

If you have a squeeky shock on your Hummer - check that it's not chaffing on the frame, before buying a replacement!
 
Shocker mount & wheel adjuster

Hi all

Just finished pulling off the rear swing arm of my Kuda Pro. I thought the neoprene bushes had worn as the shock had a heap of slack in the lower mount. What I found was that the incorect diameter mounting bolt was installed and the bushe was reasonably ok. Change the mounting bolt to the correct diameter, greased eveything up, and hey presto the suspension lifed the seat hieght by about 50mm. Amazing how a few mm lost in the triple link makes such a difference to the bike height.Must source myself a set of suspension bushes for the future.

I have also had the same problem that nathe has with the adjusters on the rear. There are two things happening here. The first the lug/locator that is welded to the swing arm isn't welded far enough towards the front of the lag and is actually peeling away from swing arm. This happend to me on the sprocket side, so I can only assume that as the chain is under load it tries to force the wheel forward... "Tighten the wheel more :eek: "!!! I here you say.
Tightening the wheel more just sqashes the swing arm slot as there is no solid connection through the swing arm axle slot... just air. This makes the cams bow, and just makes matters worse.
From the photo that nathe has uploaded, you can see that there is alot of axle thread showing, so I would have to assume that both swing arm slots are squashed.
The only solution here is to take off the swing arm, try to straigten this area as best you can, and weld a bit of flat steel inside the axle slots (top and botom) This should relieve the problem.
At this stage I have only repaired the Lug and used and old adjusting cam as a large washer on the inside of axle slot, hoping this will minmise the squashing of the swing arm once the axle has been torqued up to spec.
;)
Rob
 
Hey Rod

I was away for work 2 weeks ago at a field day at Henty (big agricultural show near Wogga Wogga) and i saw a tent selling chinese dirt bikes, so i had a look and it was Atomik and to top it off it was the owner/desinger as well!!!
What a find the guy is young as well only about 27 and her peronally designs everytihing from the frame up he has an assembly factory in china which he spend most of his time there. (he said he is only in Australia for about 3 months of the year!)
So i was talking to him and he said that the next year was going to be very exciting as he is bring out a tubuler frame to save alot of weight and make them a little more competitive to Jap bikes, he is also bring out big bore kits for the 250cc Zongshen/Loncin engines. BUT THE BIG NEWS IS THAT HE IS BRINGING OUT A 400CC BIKE!!!!!!!!!!! he allready has a few in the same frame as the 250cc blitz but Chinese engine companies are being un cooperative and can't give firm delivery schedules so it is just waiting on that but it sounds great look out 2009 for chinese dirt bikes huh guys
 
Sounds great - time to save up the pennies!

The thing I can't work out is why they are putting all the dual sport fruit on the new bikes, when you can't register them for road use.

It's extra cost to the factory for no benefit!

Wish I'd been there to ask him a few hard questions Weeg. I'd love to get one of these new 400 trail bikes registered for road use and take off down south into the forest for a holiday!
 
Tomahawk kx

my kx is in parts...but only the back wheel because im putting a different sprocket on ive found a suzuki one that will fix but i still need a front 520 one..maybe from saturday night cycles but idk what their postage would be like..also the bushes in the rear linkage is screwed they are chewed out but they are a standard size so im buying new ones..apart from that bikes going ok went for a ride in the forestry with my friend he was on xr250 went for about 60kms bike didnt miss a beat
 
radiators

rodbox5 said:
They look bigger because of the water cooling - where the radiators add quite a bit of bulk.

I don't know if I'm ready to accept a China with liquid cooling yet though!

Like you say, the Chinas are getting better all the time - but liquid cooling adds another layer of engineering complexity, together with higher design and materials technology requirements. Then there's always the problem of stacking your bike and putting a hole in the radiator - especially when you're stuck out in the bush miles from anywhere!

I've noticed that even David Knight (world enduro champ) has pulled out of events with buggered radiators - and he rides for KTM!

I think the current trend for water cooled dirt bikes may be a passing fad. The concept may hang on with motorcross bikes (where speed is everything and you've got a mechanic at the track) - but there are too many potential problems with it for bush bikes.
Click to expand...



Yeah radiators are ok if you dont hit sticks and i reckon they are not really needed on a bush trail bike cause my mates dad had a wr426 smashed a stick through it but now he had an xr400 and its so reliable never misses a beat + no radiators to fill with dirt and sticks + crush when you fall..
 
Weegee said:
But have a look at the engine output!!!! i don't think this can be correct do you guys?
Click to expand...


Yeah Weeg - output looks pretty low, especially since they're quoting the same output for a 250cc water cooled. Maybe it's a mistake but anyway, did you notice the overall weight? This new bike is bloody heavy!

Saturday night cycles has a kick-ass 300cc Zonshen custom racing engine available now and are shortly to bring out their new 400cc trick monster donk.

Both are around a grand and would slip straight into a Hummer frame.

With a 30Kw + output, I think they'd give all the performance you'd dare take on a Hummer frame - and cost a lot less than the new bike all up.

Also there'd be no extra weight on the standard Hummer and the engine is air cooled too - bonus!!
 
Linkavitch... said:
..maybe from saturday night cycles but idk what their postage would be like..
Click to expand...

When I've bought products from the Philippines before (Battycan Ltd) their postage costs were O.K. - in fact cheaper than some shipping costs I've paid from Melbourne!!!

You can always e-mail them with a parts shopping list though and ask for a quote. They may even knock off a few dollars to get your business - what with a recession on and all!!

Unfortunately the prices advertized online are in US Dollars - and the exchange rate is currently lousy. It should come up again shortly though.
 
Hey guys
I got a response from the guy about the bike see below:

sorry thats incorrect.

the following is correrct specifications on this bike;

cheers


Compression ration: 10.0:1
Maximum power, running radius: 22/7,500kW/rpm
Rated power, running radius: 20/7,500kW/rpm
Maximum torque, running radius: 32/5500nm/rpm
Minimum fuel consumption: 367g/kW/km

Not to bad its better than i thought anyway 22KW is about 29HP isn't it? still as you say the engine from saturday night cycles might be the way to go!
 
sprockets

does anyone know whether they know of a 520 sprocket to fit a hummer/tomahawk? I found a suzuki TS185 one that if you drill new wholes fits on excpet the middle hole is like 2 mm too big on each side but i reckon if u put a steel bush in there it would work. Just my thoughts...
 
Linkavitch... said:
does anyone know whether they know of a 520 sprocket to fit a hummer/tomahawk? I found a suzuki TS185 one that if you drill new wholes fits on excpet the middle hole is like 2 mm too big on each side but i reckon if u put a steel bush in there it would work. Just my thoughts...
Click to expand...

I think you can get them from Saturday Night Cycles, if you send them an e-mail.

Be sure to ask for Price, availability and shipping cost.

The reason I think this is because the output from their tricked up engines would snap a 428 chain pretty quickly - so I'm pretty sure they'd have 520 gauge sprockets as after market items.

It's always worth an e-mail anyway - as they stock a whole buch of stuff not advertized on their web-site.

Also I notice the New Kuda Pro (on the Atomik Web site) now specifies a #520 chain - although the bike comes with a new Loncin engine, rather than the old 250cc Zongshen. You might e-mail Atomik and ask whether the sprockets are interchangable between the new and old bikes.
 
Hey Rod/anyone else.
Has anyone every thought of trying to fit a longer swing arm to the hummers?
I wonder if a XR or a CRF swing arm would fit because as we all know the swing arms are a bit short than normal.
I think we would have to change to 520 chains and sprocket as well to get length in the chain.
Any thoughts?
 
I've never considered it Weeg. I mostly ride on tight forest tracks - so the short wheel base works out great for me. It's only if you have a monster engine and want drag speed stability, or you do some serious hill climbing, that a longer wheel base comes in handy.

Having said that - here are some potential problems with fitting a longer swing arm from another bike:
1. The swing arm pivots have to be the same size and the bearing types compatible.
2. The rear shock linkage design, distances and bearings have to be compatible.
3. The axle size for the rear wheel needs to be the same - or else you also have to adopt the other bike's rear wheel.
4. If you do that, then the brake calipers and brake set-up have to come with the swing arm.

Having said all that, you might be lucky and find a Honda or Yami set-up works - or else you might know someone that's handy with a welder and can do the required mods on a new swing arm. The above considerations are what you need to take notice of however.

I notice the swing-arms on the new Kuda Pro have been lengthened - so you might ask Atomik if they're compatible. This could be a much cheaper and easier solution to getting a longer wheel base. Atomik is sure to have units for sale as spares.
 
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