Going to try the new Hummer G4

[Archie]

Thanks for the info Doc, I wasn't aware of whats out there to suit this bike so I went the long way about it. Ok The run down on costs....
Front light $65.00, rear 3 in one led $82.00, Horn ( Ebay ) $5.50 pick up, foldable mirror $ 16.80 Universal switchbox $22.50
$191.80 by my calculations All were sourced from diff locations, I let the fingers do the walking..I have heard of kits out there that cost round the $250.00 mark or more....but I know one thing for sure.......you would not get a rear light to sit on the fender like the one I found.
Thanks for the vast input Doc..you have been an eye opener.....almost a test rider to the max for this bike..adopting much from you and Rod.
Cheers

 

[Jaz808]

Here is a link to a very slim rear tail light
Riders Edge, 88 Bell Street Heidelberg
Riders Edge

 

[Archie]

Hey Archie did you wire up your foot brake to work the brake light i did when i rec regged a Atomik ProX 250 at Greensbrough Vic Roads, and she didnt even check, only prob i had was the frame was not stampped, so i had to stamp it with a VR number they gave me

No Jazz...only by the front brake lever...they only requier that the brake light works, not so much where it's sourced from. I rang and booked mine at south Oakleigh...she ummed and carried on that the VIN number wasn't coming up on their database....I told her that many others have registered this kind of bike and that she is mistaken..after about 5 mins of argueing the fact she asked me to hold, she then came back and said "what office would you like to take your bike to?"......obviously asked someone up the ranks that knew more about these Chinese imports...asked her if she wanted an engine number...she said "no".....they are all over the shop these ppl mate.

 

[Archie]

Here is a link to a very slim rear tail light
Riders Edge, 88 Bell Street Heidelberg
Riders Edge

Nice slim light, but has no provision for number plate and light to light it up either...just merely a stop and driving light........

 

[rodbox5]

Good job Archie - you've certainly put the work in!

It's not possible to get a hummer licenced over here - so I've been thinking of getting a seconhand XR 250 for enduro type stuff - and using the Hummer for full on dirt work.

It's a shame really. Now I've got thr Hiummer set up - I actually prefer it to a lot of Jap bikes. It just seems to fit better and is very nifty round a short technical track.

By the way, if anybody is looking to plug up the square frame tubing ends and stop crap getting in the frame - you can buy 16mm plastic plugs from Bunnings (set of 4 for $2)

Finally - does anybody know why you have to log in a second time when you try and post a quick reply?

 

[Jaz808]

The light says its 3 in 1, Stop, Tail, Num Light,
I only found that light after i had bought a different one, as i said in earlier post just make sure your frame is stamped and not just the plate.

 

[CibbyDoc]

Xlnt work Archie....hope it all goes well for you.

Rod....XR250...you cant go wrong...one of the best bikes I have ever owned (did own).

After the thrashing I've given this bike, I would not trust it on an enduro trip, even if I could get it rego'd.

I think in total I have had to push this bike back to camp about 5 times. I have just about re wired the thing as well.

Last night after I got of the internet and put the bike in the shed I decided to kick it over....???why....just did.

DEAD.

...pulled the bat out...broken lug on the positive terminal...fixed and all good. But its things like this that seem to happen all the time.

Also the chain is shite...so if you go out for the day..remember to take you tools to adjust it with you as you WILL need to.

Rod....what chain and sprocket did you use as the replacement and where did you get it?

Jaz...thats a neat little tailight you found I like it.

Ride safe....Doc

 

[rodbox5]

Cibby,

I got a DID NZ 428 black & gold chain from my local moto shop.

You can get them on e-bay a lot cheaper - but I needed mine in a hurry.

This is actually the strongest 428 chain DID make, short of an Xring - which would cost you a fortune.

Both the 16 tooth front sprocket and 56 tooth rear sprocket I got from Bataycan in the Philippines (on e-bay). This is the same crowd that do the hot Zongshen race engines - which are also worth a look.

These are stout good fellows who have a lot of tech knowledge and get back to you quickly. They have a big inventory of parts at good prices - delivery takes 2 weeks though - and shipping is a bit pricey.

Hope that helps.

 

[jayden-pitbikez]

post pictures of ya bikes

 

[Weegee]

Hey guys its good to see that people are using this thread, any i was finally able to give my Kuda Pro a good hard ride over the break and i am proud to say it goes as well as i had hoped, the only problem is that my front forks have seemed to deflated? i noticed as i was riding home as i noticed that the forks were bottoming out! and since getting home it have noticed there is no pressure in the rams but strangly there is no oil leaking any where externally so i have sent a warranty request to Atomik so i will see what happens.
I will keep you all informed.

 

[Weegee]

Oh i forgot to ask before does anyone have any idea what the measurements are for the valve adjustments? i think i want to have a check as they were quite tappy when the bike was hot.
Thanks Weegee

 

[Jaz808]

I read a few pages back i think, that once you run your motor in and change that cheap oil to a better grade/quality the noisey tappets become quiter and the motor not so hot

 

[CibbyDoc]

Yeah Weegeee...Jaz is right....change the oil first for a good one. I would reco using a mineral oil as I dont think the tech in these motors req or are suited to synth oil, maybe semi synth but good old castrol 4T would be fine..its what I'm using anyways.

Like Rod said earlier..these are noisy donks and I found mt adjustments where fine when I checked em.

Thanks for the info on the sprockets too Rod....

Will dig them up for you anyways mate.

Cheers Doc

 

[bLaDeY]

This is turning into a great thread without a doubt, I have 2 hummers, well 1 is my brothers (black) and I have the orange one which I received in the last week.

The 2nd one (mine) I have noticed a couple of things especially the rear braided brake line which I've cable tied to the swing arm, they must have changed them somewhere along the way.

All in all I'm very happy with them, whilst you go into bike shops and they say they don't deal with chinese crap the same principles apply to motovert's, pitpro's etc, hard to tell the difference really.

I'll pop some pics up tomorrow, we'll be more than likely heading off riding.

 

[rodbox5]

I was just taking a look at the Atomik site.

The Kuda now has the Zongshen OHC engine

Our bikes (with the Evo II engine) are now called Kuda Pro's

The OHC engine is quoted as having a 14Kw output - but the strange thing is that the Kuda has gone back to the shitty ould welded swing arms, instead of the much stronger machined billet jobbies found on the EvoII bike.

Anyone work that one out?????

 

[Allied]

Hi guys, as far as I was concerned, the air filter needed some work. So i have modified things with a unifilter, I paid $30 for it, and as you can see from the links, it fits grouse. Outer cover still bolts on. On the top of your air cleaner box I fitted some mesh as the hole is too large for my liking.
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii217/flipar/DCP_2547Small.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii217/flipar/DCP_2546Small.jpg
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii217/flipar/DCP_2545Small.jpg

 

[Archie]

Hi ppls, CibbyDoc raised a serious point on the back brake line that snakes inwards and hence rubs against the back wheel eating away at the braid and marking the swing arm. I think I have worked around this, although have not even taken the leaps and bounds that Doc has with his riding, this little fix may be a solution.
Start off by removing the fastener as you will need to grind a portion off to remount it virtually parallel to the swing arm to get the results. Undo the nut on the piston side of the line, just a small shift and push the braid closer to the piston until it touches.
Grind the fastener as you see in my picture so that its level with the bend.
At this stage you should already see the braid snake outwards and well away from the tyer .Refit your fastener as shown in picture almost parallel and by now the braid should be looking outwards away from the wheel, but not too much to tangle itself with shrubs and the like out bush.
Hope this helps.

Cheers

 

[Weegee]

Yeah i allready changed the oil that was the first thing i did i am running castrol 4t as well and yes it quiet every thing down but it still noisy at operating temperatures anyway i will have a look this afternoon i have read somewhere 0.3 so i will stick to that and see how i go.

 

[CibbyDoc]

Yeah i allready changed the oil that was the first thing i did i am running castrol 4t as well and yes it quiet every thing down but it still noisy at operating temperatures anyway i will have a look this afternoon i have read somewhere 0.3 so i will stick to that and see how i go.

Weegee thats too big mate...

The correct setting is 0.05 exhaust and inlet (according to my manual).

If you could take some picks and post a how to for those that dont have your experience with motors, that would be awesome.

If not I will when I adjust mine.

Cheers Doc

 

[CibbyDoc]

Allied....what model air filter is that?...is it just a 43mm pod filter? Great solution...I think you may had beaten Rod to the bar on that one

Archie.....Xlnt work mate...that looks heaps better. I wish I had that info before I did mine. I took off my line and turned it upside down. Seems to be the solution as well, but then I had to bleed the brakes...and yep you guessed it...more drama.

The bleed nipple on the rear brakes is at the lowest point of the caliper so the air travels away from it. You have to take off the caliper to bleed it.....took me a while to figure that one too....this bike is a real challenge I tell you.