How to: Bleeding the Brakes

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Nuts 4 50s

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So, you have recently checked you brake pad and they have still got some life. Now you have the task of bleeding your brakes.

Heres a thread on how to fix this problem, All you need is some really basic tools and a bit of patients and your bike will be pulling up like its no tomorrow, its actually not that hard.

Step 1: Gathering Tools and materials
1. 8mm open or ring spanner
2. Clear tube to fit the bleeder nipple
3. A drain container (Ice-cream container does the trick.)
4. Brake fluid
5. Phillips head screw driver
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Step 2: Romove the oil cap
1. Take you phillips head screw driver and remove the filler cover.
2. Inspect the fluid level.
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Step 3: Attach the clear tubeing
1. Attach the clear tubing to the bleed nipple.
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Step 4: Bleeding the brake
1. Squeeze the brake level slowly and hold it in.
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2. Now with your free hand open the bleed bolt with the 8mm spanner.
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3. While still holding the brake in, tighten the bleed bolt.
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4. When loosening the bolt there should be a short steady burst of brake fluid, there should not be any breaks or bubbles in this fluid flow.

Keep repenting this step till you have the solid flow of fluid.

Step 5: Check the fluid level

All throughout this process you must check that you have a decent amount of fluid in the ressorvoir as it drops quickly after a few pumps.
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Step 6:

Replace ressorvoir cover and clean any brakefluid off plasics or tools. Brake fluid can eat plastic.
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Step 7: Check your work
Check if your job has been done correctly by spinning the wheel and then applying the brake.

Now you have an excuse to do stoppies in your backyard, if anyone tell you to stop doing it, tell them that you just testing to see if your brakes work. :)
 
thanks mate, ill be straight down to supercheap in the morning to get some fluid!

:)
 
+ reps to you mate.

but id like to add that if you put the hose back in to the brake fluid bottle submerged in the fluid then you dont need to keep cracking the bleeder.. just keep slowly pumping the brake lever.. same goes for the rear brake..

obviously being submerged in the fluid means it cant suck air back up the line..
 
+ reps to you mate.

but id like to add that if you put the hose back in to the brake fluid bottle submerged in the fluid then you dont need to keep cracking the bleeder.. just keep slowly pumping the brake lever.. same goes for the rear brake..

obviously being submerged in the fluid means it cant suck air back up the line..

Oh yeah thats a good idea, iguess you learn something new everyday

Cheers for the +1
 
Should add that with the rear brakes, sometime you have to raise the caliper to the sky to do the process as air can get trapped in the highest point of the cable and you can pump all day and it wont come out as air rises in fluid.
 
Pretty much, but instead of squeezing the front brake you press on the pedal. Pretty easy i just did it, and it took me 2 minutes. :)

Good luck
 
i dont have the tube but i have done everything else the instructions say. even tied the caliper up level with the top of the frame. every thing goes fine but the brakes arent responding. like the fluid comes out as it should and all. but the brakes are only moving less than 1mm
 
now the brakes are closed and wont re open unless i pry them apart with a flathead
 
is the disk in there? cause your not meant to close them without the disk.. and 1mm sounds right?

Yeah you have to have the wheel on so the brake has something to push against, if yu dont do this they will close up and you wont be able to get them open.
 
oh my, does this mean they are ruined??
motovert website says $64 for new ones...
 
just wondering, when bleeding the brakes, if you put the clear tube in just some water in a coke bottle so its submerged under it, then open the brake bleeder nipple thingo, can u just pump the brake and empty the old fluid into the coke bottle then when that is completely out of the system, you just add new stuff?
 

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