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there are wires coming from the stator, (behind the l/h engine cover)
some wires will going up and joining into the loom, what colour wires do you have that aren't being used?
there could be a yellow, a white, or 2x yellows
ok my mistake theres 2 yellows, a light green/red, green, blue/white, cant tell if one of the yellows are yellow with black
 
the light green w/red stripe is for neutral start only bikes, so if it's not connected, it's not needed.

the blue w/white stripe is trigger for the cdi unit.

green is earth.


is there a black w/red stripe?

if it has 2x yellows that aren't being used, these are for the lighting.
1 yellow needs to be grounded to an earth point on the frame,
the other yellow is the positive supply power for the lights.
join an AC regulator ( 2x wire regulator) to that yellow positive wire as well, and run the brown wire from the regulator to an earth point on the frame
this will keep the voltage from going up too high and blowing/burning out your lights' bulbs.

you will need to follow the last wiring diagram in the link from tboltusa, i posted above
 
yeah cool, that black w/red is just the power for the cdi unit

i saw when writing that last post too, that i forgot the link for the regulator in the post above that,
i have edited it and added it to that post now.

the link you posted for the 4x wire regulator/rectifier, is for a bike that is going to use a battery in the lighting system.
 
so the one you linked should run 3 or more lights?
i think it would run up to about 50 watts of lights,
but, it all depends on how many watts your lighting coil puts out.
if you use too bigger wattage globes, it means the lighting coil can become hot, and fail prematurely.
the lights will also run dimmer than their specified rating.
the bulbs will need to be AC motorcycle type bulbs too, not DC ( car) ones
 
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to use the 4 pin regulator,
you will need to change your stator and flywheel over to a standard type one,
one that has a yellow wire and a white wire coming off of it from the lighting coil.

and you wont have to run a battery,
you could use a capacitor instead, which will take up a lot less room, and is only a tenth of the weight.
a decent capacitor will cost you about $12.
using a capacitor instead of a battery, you wont have lighting unless the bike is running.

if you want a link for a capacitor,
these are not too bad price wise-http://www.ebay.com/itm/BAT-PAC-BATTERY-ELIMINATOR-MOTORCYCLE-ATV-SCOOTER-/151030401828?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item232a1d0b24&vxp=mtr
or use one like this-http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Electrolytic-Capacitors-22000uF-30V-Radial-BY-GE-/160650775912?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2567884d68&_uhb=1#ht_1178wt_1397
 
it has a mild 351C, holley 800DP, Crane hyrdaulic cam, Accel electronic ign, Pacemaker tuned headers, twin 2.25 exhaust, Top Loader 4sp, lightend cro-mo flywheel, 9" LSD w/4.11's and a fair bit more
was dyno'd a couple of years ago at 234rwkw's, not too bad for a motor built as a daily driver.
there are a few pics in the photo thread here too-
http://www.miniriders.com/general-chat/34528-photography-thread-9.html
 
Maaaaaaaaad me dad use to have a xt now hes got a orange xb couple of dings here and there, put extrators on it and made the rest custom lowered, hes gunna pull the 6 out and give a fresh lick of paint and a tune plus the gearbox is sliping lol
130-140k's one owner im pretty sure
 
thanks loco,
a mate is doing up an XB sedan atm too, nice cars :thumbup:
 
BACK to this this thread now oooopps
just had a thought, seems i have some of the gear now to run some lights i saw a rec reg kit and i was thinking if it would be cheaper if i did it myself because it is about 300 or so bucks for kits which is the type of money i dont want to spend, if so i have a couple of links\/

1x: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stainles..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cec23adfc&_uhb=1
1x: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Stainles..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cecc48600&_uhb=1
btw i thourght it would be good to have different pressure switches because one on the rear the( 90dg one ) then the other on the front.

1x:http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universa..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item257c63082d&_uhb=1


1x: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Acerbis-..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d1f03db8&_uhb=1

1x: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Motorcyc..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item5ae9a3bbec&_uhb=1

1x: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LED-Rear...orcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2575d6e034

Would it be worth it...
 
you can get these lights pretty cheap, just as good as the $100 acerbis one,
acerbis style, $61 delivered-
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ENDURO-M..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b98c3e24&_uhb=1
cheaper $25 delivered-
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dirt-Bik..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d4ca8993&_uhb=1
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Headligh..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d68d9e93&_uhb=1

tail light- $22 delivered
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dirt-Bik..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d446e0f2&_uhb=1

horn- $3.50 delivered
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universa..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac196bd9f&_uhb=1

straight brake switch, hydraulic $10 delivered-
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Brake-pr..._Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc6936c44&_uhb=1

or you could set the brake lights up with electric mechanical type switches too?
they are a lot cheaper, like they use on Yamaha enduro bikes etc



i have a Headlight switch, with Kill switch and Horn button, all in one, like the one you linked,
i'd sell for $12 if you want it?

and i'm sure i have an electric front brake light switch, that will fit under your front brake lever, i could throw in with the switch above.
then you'd just need a rear brake switch.
 
im interested in the kill switch and the electric brake switch but can i see what type of condition they are in if you wouldnt mind that is
 
the headlight/kill/horn switch is brand new/never used,
the yellow button on the bottom is for electric start, but being momentary action, it could be used for a horn.
the brake light switch is used, good condition but i'll have to find it in my shed, i'll put up a pic when i can.





 
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