How to test for spark with a C.D.I and factory O.R.K with or without a battery

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Well-Known Member
May 9, 2010
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s.a between the hills and the murray
The simplest way to see if a part is working or not is to swap the suspected broken part with a working one!

Wires get hard and brittle with heat and age, a break can happen and can be very hard to see, the best way to test is with a multimeter and a test light.

(1) Make sure all kill switches are turned off or disconnected and if so all wires are separated and insulated some bikes or quads have more than 1

(2) Start at the plug working your way back to the stator plate making sure every connection is solid and dry.

(3) Remove the sparkplug from the head and reinsert the sparkplug into the plug lead, or a screwdriver with an insulated handle. (Into the plug lead not the head) and earth the plug base against the exhaust or engine.(if using the screw driver hold the shaft just next to the engine or exhaust)

(4) Crank the engine over if you can’t see a strong blue spark change the plug and try again, if you still can’t see one or if the spark is orange or only very small move on, a weak spark can’t jump under compression.(even the gap on a brand new plug can be wrong the correct gap is .7mm).

(5) Make sure that the coil is correctly earthed, if there is no earth lead it may be earthed thru the coil mounting bracket so make sure that the coil mounting bracket is touching bare metal, (Scratch paint or grime off with a screw driver on the coil and where it mounts to the frame).

(6) Refit the coil check for spark with the plug base earthed against the exhaust or engine.

(7) If still no spark remove the coil from bike and test ohm reading with a multi meter, the ohm reading should be around 2.5 to 6 ohms at the low end (the wire that is soldered to the body of the coil) and around 9 to 17 ohms at the high end (the wire going into the sparkplug lead). (Put the red probe on the high and low end wires where they attach to the stator plate and the black probe at the main metal body of the coil.)

(8) Go to the C.D.I the only test I know for this is it works or it doesn’t, so swap it with a working one it never hurts to have one spare as it’s an easy swap item and can be eliminated as a possible cause easily .If a spare is not available move on to the stator plate, if the stator plate tests fine then a replacement C.D.I will be needed.

(9) Make sure the pickup on the stator plate clears the magnet on the flywheel by 10 thou not 10mm and both are clean the stator plate has several wires coming from it the green or black are generally earth wires yellow red or white are generally power, the stator plate should put out around 1 – 2.5 volts from at least one of the power wires when being cranked over if no volts are found, then the stator plate is stuffed,
ohms testing for the stator , the ohms reading is pretty close to 100ohms, any more or less is a sign it is on its way out and obviously if theres nothing then its dead. you test the green and blue wires..swap with a working one.

see here for a wiring diagram Hooper Imports Experts on Chinese Motorcycles and Parts, Engines

If none of the above work and you still have no spark undo petrol cap get on bike and look inside petrol tank using a cigarette lighter to see with I will guarantee a spark then if u do this u will blow up tho ha-ha

huge thanks to sean01 for checking the info is correct and adding the bits i didnt know


Master Spanner Spinning Moderator
Oct 9, 2008
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Any spark dramas, i go for the stator first, by running the black and red wire from the stator back onto the magneto as you kick it over with the plug out, should see good blue spark or not, working on these things day in day out i see more stuffed stators than anything, with cdi's close second. Cheers for the great info mate, very helpful.

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