"How To" Tutorial, list of things.

[agressive1]

Hey Guys and Girls this is a Tutorial on “How to” do things which I think is very important to know to get the most out of your bike and to make your days worth of riding a day to remember. It will also give you a few tips which you may have never thought of.


1) How to install brake pads.
2) How to fix chain if fallen of while riding.
3) Change oil on run in or any general change of oil.
4) How to apply lock tite on screws.
5) First time rider of a mini bike or pit bike.
6) Tools needed on first ride.
7) Chain tension.
8) Cleaning the bike.
9) Building procedures which need to be done out of the crate.
10) How to take of and change gears when riding.



1) How to install brake pads.

I found the hardest thing when I was building my bike was how to put on the brake pads oww boy did it sh*t me. But help from the MSO team Ken and Linda there was nothing then to sh*t me.

1)You will see that the break pads have a brass coloured U shaped metal. This sits in the break pads. Words are hard to describe how they go on but I will show you pictures and a step by step on how it all goes.

2)The U shaped bit faces down onto the calliper, The brass metal will pretty much click into place when its in.

3)Then the smaller break pad half sits in place like so but needs to be pushed in until it clicks.

3)Once this is done the bigger half of the break pad needs to go in place by making the 2 break calliper mounts sitting in the break pads. "Photo is on my 4th post, sorry not enough photos can be allowed on the one post.

Everything will go together fine as long as you follow these pictures and you will do it as if you have been doing them for your whole life.



2) How to fix chain if fallen of while riding.

I’m sure that this has happen to quiet a few people either because they haven’t checked tension of the chain or the chain is new and has stretched on first ride.

Make sure that the chain is on the first cog which is at the motor once this is on put the rear chain on from the top not the bottom, you will be only able to get half of it on unless the chain is really really loose. Once the chain is half on the rear sprocket slowly role back the bike making sure that the bike is in Neutral and that the chain is going back on.

If you put the chain on from the bottom instead of the top the bike will then need to be rolled forward, either way both procedures will work without a doubt.

Please take note that this does not mean that you are set to go for another ride as the chain will need to be adjusted again. This is just a procedure to get you back to your site where you can perform work on the bike. Or if you have your own tool set with you while riding you can perform work on the bike. Please read step 6 for information on what tools are needed on a ride.

NOTE: OTHER HALF OF THE TUTORIAL WILL BE POSTED SOON, AS THERE IS A WORD LIMIT.

 

[agressive1]

3) Change oil on run in or any general change of oil.

Well you may have a new bike and can’t wait until starting it or you may have an old bike and wouldn’t have a clue on how to change the oil and scratching your head at the same time thinking of what to do.

Changing oil is very important these days as the 4 stroke motor is becoming to be more powerful and needs more maintenance then some of the older 4 strokes. To much oil or to less oil is both bad for your bike so making sure that you have the rite amount is very important.

First you will need to take of the dip stick or loosen it just so air can get in the engine and make the oil easier to run through its drain hole. Second you will need to loosen the oil drain nut which is located at the bottom of the crank case under the bash plate, you will see a hole in the bash plate which is where the drainage hole is. Making sure before you loosen the nut that you have paper or any other protector under the bike so that you don’t dirty the floor as oil is a pain to get rid of and usually leaves a mark. You will also need a container or some sort of bucket which will at least hold up to 1.5 litres of oil. Once you have these materials take out the drainage nut using a 17mm socket and making sure that you don’t loose the washer or nut in the oil as both items do need to be reused again.

I prefer leaving the bike over night to drip but if you don’t have the time at least leave it dripping for a good 15 minutes. I also tend to put the bike on a few different angles as oil does get caught inside the engine. If you do this you will notice a lot more oil will appear.

Once you have done this install the drainage nut back on with the washer in place firmly so that it will not leak or come of.

It’s up to you what oil you want to run but for the moment I’ am running Mineral oil as I’ am still running in the engine. Fill the bike up with about 1 litres worth of oil, place dip stick back in position but do not screw down making sure that the bike is on a flat ground, check dip stick its above the line on the criss cross pattern then the bike is fine with oil but I usually fill it rite to the top of the criss cross pattern.

Install the dip stick back on and go for a ride you may notice that the oil will drop slightly in level but that is fine as the oil is getting moved around in all its places where the oil had drained out from.

4) How to apply lock tite on screws.

Most people think to them selves don’t worry “shell” be alrite if you do it nice and tight. Vibration is a very big issue with these bikes and there is plenty of it, even though you may think that the nut is tight and it wont come out you should still add some lock tight which glues the screw in firmly and stops vibrations from loosening the screw or nut.

There are 3 types of lock tites which is, low strength, medium strength and high strength I use medium strength which holds my screws in nice and tight and im happy with it.

I apply lock tite on all of the thread of the screw that gets screwed into its hole and I also do the head of the screw as it locks onto the face of the metal surroundings which gives the screw a better lock.



5) First time rider of a mini bike or pit bike.

I was once the first rider of a mini bike or a pit bike. I thought that it would be pretty much all the same until I rode the bike off road. The smaller tyre size had played a big role in getting use to the bike so did the little travel of suspension and the stiffness. First time me riding my MSO Pro I fell of, I wasn’t doing anything stupid just riding as if I would usually on my big bike until I turned into dirt fine like sand. The bike felt much different to a normal size bike and wasn’t as controllable as I thought leading me to fall over and graze my arm.

Jumping is much easier with the bike as it is smaller and can move the bike easily around in the air.

Don’t be fooled by its size thinking that riding will be the same as it isn’t. I got fooled by it and maybe some others will too. Take it easy on the first few rides of road and take note of where you point your front tyre. You cant get out of a mistakes as easy with these bikes compared to a full size bike.

 

[agressive1]

6) Tools needed on first ride.

A tool bag is always handy on a day out riding as you never know what could happen while riding. You may even loose some screws as you didn’t lock tite them or a screw may come loose putting your self in danger or death. Refer to step 4 on how to apply lock tite on screws.

I usually carry around a small pouch of tools with me. Depending on what size your bikes nuts are or Allen keys are I usually bring a few Allen keys, 4 socket sets, and 4 o ring spanners and a few open Enders. There’s no point carrying extra tools that won’t help you and your bike in a situation so make sure you have the correct size tools that you decide to bring with you on your next day out.


7) Chain tension.

Chain tension is important to get the most out of your chain and to get the most out of your days worth of riding. To tight you can snap the chain or stretch the chain to quickly and by the time you know it you will need a new one. To loose will cause the chain to jump up and down when riding and come of the sprocket, that’s when you will need to go to step number 2 ^^^^^ to get your self back home to perform some minor repairs.

There has to be about 20 to 25mm of slack in the chain, don’t forget when you sit down that the chain gets tighter so measure it out where a good point is, but about 20mm is a good starting point.

Chain pushed all the way up to swing arm, does not hit swing arm misses by about 20mm.
This is my bike up on 2 wheels, there is no sag at all in the suspension. As you can see that there is sag in the chain line, it may look like way to much but then again once you sit on the bike the chain will get stiffer. Not many people realise this but please take note on your chain tension when sitting on the bike. Once you are sitting on the there should be around about 20 to 25mm of slack.


8) Cleaning the bike.

I like making sure that my bike is clean after a days ride. I use general car wash which is Armorall Wash and Wax, high pressure hose, Degreasser, Car sponge, Tooth brush, plastic bag, car sponge and a scrubber of some sort to clean the tyres. NOTE plastic bag is not needed if you have a closed in airfilter.

I firstly put a plastic bag around the air filter to make sure no water seeps through the carburettor I then hose down the whole bike and then use a High pressure gun all around the bike trying to avoid the bearings and any electrical wires. I avoid bearings as the bearings have either grease or oil in them and I don’t want any of that substance to come out of them.

I then go over the whole bike with the car sponge and soapy water making sure the plastic gets a real good clean. I repeat this about 2 to 3 times depending how dirty the bike is. I then high pressure it all away making sure I don’t peal of any stickers at the same time.

I scrub the tyres with the brush and then hose down majority of the bike with degreaser and scrub the engine with a soft tooth brush and scrub the chain and sprockets. I then hose it off with the high pressure hose leaving the bike in a clean note the way it came out of the crate.

9) Building procedures which need to be done out of the crate.

There are a number of items that do need to be mounted onto the bike before full operation of your new mini motorbike.

These are the items which do need to be added to the bike, this doesn’t mean that you have to buy these parts they already come with the bike but just not mounted for postage reasons.

Front and rear break pads need to be put on which are included in the box. To install rear break pads the rear wheel will have to come off unfortunately and then put back on. The front wheel is already of so all is needed to be done is to place new break pads in front calliper and install front tyre.

How to install break pads please go to step number 9.

Rear break lever needs to be added with a number of other equipment like split pins, washer and spring to make sure the brake lever goes back into neutral position.

Plastics which include front mud guard, seat and left and right side guards. The left and right side guards are already attached to the seat but do need to be tightened slightly as they are loose. Nuts, screws washers and rubber washers are included with the bike which does need to be used on plastics.

Handle bars need to be put in place and mounted down with handle bar brace, doesn’t matter how you sit them as long as they are comfortable for you and that they are even side by side. Usually the handle bars should be facing sky high but then again up to you on how comfortable you like them. Also the MSO or other manufacturer brand padded chest or head protector does need to be added to handle bars which is easy to do as it is only Velcro.

The muffler needs to be added also by placing muffler over exhaust manifold and mounted down with metal bracket with a line of rubber protector which is added also with the bike. There is also a spacer which is added that’s about 15 to 20mm long, this is added between the exhaust bracket and rear frame once screw has been passed through.

The rear cradle frame has been mounted on but needs 2 extra bolts added to it so that it is fully mounted down and tightened.

The CDI unit needs to be put in its little holder “Pouch” which is easily visible and easy to do.

The fuel cap also needs to be added, be sure to put the fuel cap on strait as it is made out of Aluminium and has sharp threads which can easily cross thread the fuel tanks thread. Place fuel cap on fuel tank thread making sure that it is flat and even slowly turn it, if it feels tight take of immediately and try again until it roles on smooth.


10) How to take of and change gears when riding.

Taking of and changing gears when riding is very important for you and for your bike, why is this, if you don’t know how to take of or change gears you can put lots of stress on the engine making parts like the clutch wear much easier and you wont get the most out of your bikes power if you don’t know how to change gears while riding.

Taking of is always a mission if you’re the first rider of a bike not alone pit bike or mini bike but also full scale bikes. When I teach my friends how to change gears I let them play around with the throttle for a bit and let them slowly release the clutch until the bike starts moving. This just gives them a good feel of how much revving is needed and how far the clutch needs to go out.

Hold the clutch all the way in with the bike in first gear, then slowly rev the bike making sure you’re not over revving it and release the clutch gently “GENTLY” until the bike is moving you can release it all the way. You may find that you won’t have a smooth take of but that’s fine as long as you keep going. Practice makes perfect keep trying that and by the time you know it you don’t even need to think about how much revving to do and when to release the clutch. Releasing the clutch gently is important as if you release it to quick you can stall the bike or you can pop a wheelie of the line causing the bike to flip and this is when you can do damage to your self or the bike.

But why when Pro rider’s take of they drop the clutch real quick and throttle the bike as if it’s hot? They have had lots of experience riding and plus their clutches are set up for the rider. Once you have learnt the basics you can slowly start taking of faster but for now you need to learn how to take of and this will take a while until it’s all smooth on take of.

Changing gears while your riding is much easier then taking of but still is slightly hard specially if your going at a low speed. When changing gears while riding you have to be on the correct speed if you’re to slow for the gear your in then you don’t have to change but if the bike is revving out saying change gears then you must change up a gear. By doing this hold the clutch in and up shift a gear with out throttle on, once you have up shifted you can drop the clutch you don’t have to let it out easy. If you do let it out easy you will ride the clutch which will wear the clutch easier.

Same goes for changing down a gear if your going up a hill and there’s no power in the bike you may need to down shift doing the same as up shifting but you may need to go down 2 times a gear I recommend doing it one at a time.

Thanks
Dean

 

[agressive1]

Hey Guys

This is the last picture for the last step for the how to put break pads on.

There is only a limit of 4 photos so i had to put it in another reply.

 

[Sidney]

what engines use 1.5 litres of oil?

 

[SnItChY]

good work

well done !!

 

[agressive1]

what engines use 1.5 litres of oil?

None that i know of, i dont think you read it properly. I said that you will need a bucket that is at leat 1.5 litres.

Example: If your bike takes 1 litre of oil its just stupid getting a bucket that holds only 1 litre. You will go and move it out of the way and will most likely spill abit.

My bike holds over 1 litre of oil i dont know about yours. Some of my bigger bikes hold about that much.

 

[orion125proseries06]

u really want those pizes dont you

 

[MITTZ]

after cleaning the bike do u have to re-oil nething eg. chain? and also i think ur ment to plug the exhaust

 

[agressive1]

You dont have to plug the exhaust unless your stupid and dont know where the exhaust hole is well then maybe plug it all up.

But i know where the exhaust hole is so i dont get a hose and run it down it.


If you want you can re oil it, i do but most oils and greases are water proof which is why you shouldnt use a high pressure hose directly on any bearings.

 

[unit_mx]

Well done mate , real good thread. Good to see guys putting the effort into threads like this very helpful

 

[Little Brucey]

bloody oath unit_mx. this is guna help me a fair bit. thanx agressive1

 

[pbk]

great work buddy

a hint for changing oil is when draining it and it seems to be empty kick the bike over you get slot more oil out as there is a bit on the gears and so on

 

[brett26]

what happened to the pics?

 

[mattbombers]

they have been deleted
its allways good if you see a thread with pics like this, save them to ur pc. then if the other dude goes you can see them and post em back up.

 

[consigned_royal]

hey guys

oil changes.. after how many hours do you have to drop the sump and put fresh oil in.?
cheers guys

 

[sean01]

i usually do it at approx 10-15hrs of riding or at least once a month which ever comes first..

just remember its cheaper and easier to change the oil all the time compared to replacing an engine..

another thing you can do is keep and eye on the colour of the oil. as soon as it starts to go dark drop it and put new stuff in it..
also if yr heavy on the clutch it will kill the oil quicker...

 

[BOOGZ STR]

Bugger the pics would be handy!, nice tut, will come in handy