inner rotor kit crap

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smadden

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Hi all

I have just installed a inner rotor kit i purchased from dhz for my yx160 atomik. I also put on a oko 26mm carb and their big bore exhaust,(thats another story) I fired it up, idle's normal and very responsive. go to take off and all good, give it a quick squirt, spins the rear in 1st, 2nd so thinking yeah this is good. Now for the plug chop run. I hold WOT in second and let revs build then its like the limiter kicks in...but i know its not the limiter. I try going fatter on the main jet as the symptoms are further up the rev range, no difference. I try going leaner, i reset the air gaps, I retard the advance, helps a little, I advance it a little worse. I throw away my whole wiring loom and hard wire this POS with new wire directly to the cdi and run all earths to a common point and attach to the frame(paint removed and tech screwed)...a little smoother....

It breaking down!!!

I swapped my plug, no difference

I check the plug against the head to see the size of the spark kernal whilst kicking over...pathetic. Smashing 2 rocks together gives off a bigger spark. So what do i do? I ****ed the orginal outer rotor taking it off(didn't have a puller). Are these things just junk or is it worth investing in a new coil or a new outer rotor kit sean01 recomends...any help would be good before a zippo fixes it for good.

Cheers

Shane
 
hmmm the dreaded drama's with IRKS's.

makes it a little harder cause you did a few mods at once so lets start with the carby..

36 pilot and 100/102 main jet is plenty for this engine, drop the needle clip 1 notch (raise the needle) mixture screw should like to be around 1-2 turns.

now for this limiter sounding problem..
how far up the rev range is this happening?
reason i ask is the standard valve springs are pretty weak and tend to bounce early BUT you should of experienced this with the last carby too at one stage..
of course with the IRK and the oko carb the engine is working quicker so im not gonna totally rule out valve bouncing.

best thing to do would be to upload a good quality video of the problem to youtube and link us up.

if you wanted to try a couple of things first then you could make sure the air gap on both the primary coil and pickup sensor on the IRK and around .010 tho.
if your completely sus on the irk unit then id say the cdi will be at fault.. its pretty common. return for replacement..

and as to the ORK kit, yes the lifan 150 ork kit is heaps better, 1000 times more reliable and actually heaps with kick back issues that yx160's are common for..
however the stator plate that bolts to the engine needs to have 3mm lathed off it so the magneto doesn't hit.. (if you need more info about this just ask)
 
All great points sean

your spot on with too many mods all at once but im pretty sure its not jetting. I match ported the manifold to head and carb as the amazing chinese quality was evident, this would of given it more flow but not hurt velocity as the quick squirt wheel spin shows it has good torque still with the flat slide...it has a 105 main in now as i thought the porting my put me there but will try your reco. crook cdi could be a go'er. I have one of those redbull cdi's i bought from dhz but i suspect i cant retro fit as the the signal from the inner rotor wont match a outer signal and talk to the cdi? I play again tomorrow, even swap back the stock carb to confirm. Its not valve bouncing as its only on its 3rd tank and it ran good before i ****ed around with it.

cheers for that sean
 
105 main is too big and too big of main jet can cause a valve bouncing/limiting effect.

you can retro fit the other cdi, i d have used standard black cdi's as well just to test timing. its not hard you just need your old harness to work the wiring out...

the big coil on the irk is red/black and the pickup sensor is blue/white
then the usual yellow/black for coil and then the kill switch and earth wires.
 
Ok will drop the main back to 100. The only reason i tried the 105 was that i thought the coughing was a lean condition or fuel starvation which is where in the rpm range it starts breaking down. I'll try the redbull cdi out first i think, which means cutting up my hard wired loom. I have also elimated my kill switch in my new loom as i desperate to try anything so i have both earth wires from the cdi attached to the earth of the coil then all 3 are soldered together and screwed to the frame for the best possible earth.... should the coil earth be attached seperatly to the cdi earth and the other cdi earth which has a grounding terminal earthed on its own? I just asumed that all 3 were a common earth?
 
Thanks for your time on this sean. I'll keep you posted
 
swapped over cdi's...healthy spark but will not fire. The best i can get is put,put,put. Swap back to cdi that came with the irk and boom fires into life but top end miss again. could the redbull racing cdi be reading the signal 180 deg out of phase? 1 thing i noticed with the cdi is it has a lot more base advance and it wanted to kick back more that the stock irk cdi. It also back fired thru the carby with the redbull cdi. Time for the lifan ort i think. I just cant see how that tiny little magnet can induct enough volts to the coil and add in the chinese quality as well.
 
Check your spark plug gap. I run mine as wide as possible but when initially setting it, and its too wide, at high rpm, it cracks and miss fires and all sorts of funny stuff happen, then when I close it back up a bit its fine. Plug gaps can be anything.....
 
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yeah i wouldn't exceed 1.1mm plug gap.. the ignition just isn't strong enough.. generally .9 is good all round
 
I tried narrowing the plug gap before i got on here but only with the race cdi, not with the stock irk cdi so will try. The race cdi worked a treat before i swapped over to the irk so i dont think its that...anyway i think i threw away the stock cdi that came with the bike. i'll go back to stock irk cdi and run 0.9 gap in the plug over the weekend and report back.

This is my current build at the moment....and i swear this $80 pos irk part has given more hassel than my new track bike....and the engine is a one off corsa race engine that has custom everything but this rotor kit is more hassel.WTF?

Thanks boys
 

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update:
Replaced the coil for a quality chinese one...(if there is such a thing?) Much much better but still has the miss but its much further up the rpm range. The spark is still weak as **** but maybe thats just as good as a irk gets. I followed seans specs for the carb as well. Its so crisp and responsive, not sure if the coil has cleaned it up or helped but the thing is super snappy. I suspect there may also be a manifold air leak as well. I conducted a experiment and placed the bike in a dark shed, fired it up and ran it at 1/4-1/2-3/4-full throttle increments...same as on a dyno and noticed at about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle the miss was there and short blue flames out the pipe but WOT cured this which me thinks there maybe a air leak not helping things. I didn't hold WOT for long as im sure there was planty of crank float going on. If there is one thing i got out of all this and made it worth while is the carb setting sean gave me. Fantastic info. TBC
 
smadden said:
update:
Replaced the coil for a quality chinese one...(if there is such a thing?) Much much better but still has the miss but its much further up the rpm range. The spark is still weak as **** but maybe thats just as good as a irk gets. I followed seans specs for the carb as well. Its so crisp and responsive, not sure if the coil has cleaned it up or helped but the thing is super snappy. I suspect there may also be a manifold air leak as well. I conducted a experiment and placed the bike in a dark shed, fired it up and ran it at 1/4-1/2-3/4-full throttle increments...same as on a dyno and noticed at about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle the miss was there and short blue flames out the pipe but WOT cured this which me thinks there maybe a air leak not helping things. I didn't hold WOT for long as im sure there was planty of crank float going on. If there is one thing i got out of all this and made it worth while is the carb setting sean gave me. Fantastic info. TBC
Click to expand...

Mate IRK's are crap. It was the worst thing I have done to my bike.

Nice looking build though. What sort of motor is that?
 
I think motor man said it well. IRK's are crap. The build is a ducati corse engine, alloy frame by me and all the other stuff is "click- add to cart then check out" I think all ive done is made what pathetic spark the irk generates and made it efficient enough to at least run the bike. Imagine when i replace this for the ork?
 
smadden said:
I think motor man said it well. IRK's are crap. The build is a ducati corse engine, alloy frame by me and all the other stuff is "click- add to cart then check out" I think all ive done is made what pathetic spark the irk generates and made it efficient enough to at least run the bike. Imagine when i replace this for the ork?
Click to expand...

Personally I wouldn't worry about a rotor kit at all for that bike. Should be just fine as it is.

Sweet looking build though bud. I will be keeping an eye on this one!!
 
Hey motorman...i think you maybe a little confused? that photo is of a roadrace bike im building from scratch and the purpose of the photo was that ive had more trouble with the bloody IRK for a atomik yx160 than building this bike from sctatch. the ignition on my race bike is worth than the atomik!!!! The first photo is the only photo i have of the atomik which is in background and the other is the race bike at the mo. Im taking the atomik out this weekend to give it a massive flogging as up and down the drive way is not so good for testing. I'll test and tune with timing the irk and report back.

Shane
 

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Problem all fixed. I installed a lifan ORK. I had to machine down the stator plate 3mm to fit the yx engine. Its a different bike, even sounds different. The moral of the story is that IRK's are a POS. They are well enough made but in my view don't induct enough volts. The lifan rotor was putting out 30 volts at fast idle where as the IRK was 3.5 volts. This maybe ok for a 50cc bike tho. It runs best at full advance as well
 
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