Meko
Well-Known Member
Wow - in another thread it says to move it UP 2mm from center - mine has been running a bit ragged at this setting so I might move it the other way and see how that is 
- thanks matey
- thanks matey 
kitaco clone IR kit REV LIMIT?
- Thread starter kaneo
- Start date
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kaneo
Well-Known Member
personally i dont think mine runs as smooth as it did before with the magneto but it seems to go a bit harder. My mate is getting the same bike saturday. Cant wait to have a race with him to see the difference if there is any or just an illusion.
sean01
Legend Spanner Spinner
clearance ..good question...
i would think 5-10tho using a copper feeler blade. i could be wrong tho.
please see if someone can confirm this measurement as i dont have 1 here to measure.
i would think 5-10tho using a copper feeler blade. i could be wrong tho.
please see if someone can confirm this measurement as i dont have 1 here to measure.
kaneo
Well-Known Member
Not too sure on clearences. Dont think it is super critical. As long as it doesnt touch the rotor. I suppose thats why we paid 69 dollars for the IR Kitaco copy and got no instructions where as the real ones are Heaps and tell you exactly what to do. Aus james all i can say is "If it aint broke, Dont fix it" If it is goin good just let it be.
draino
Well-Known Member
Kitaco Clone
I have fitted a Kitaco Clone kit and oil sling from DHZ, If you havent fitted the lighter sling that could be the problem, The blue cdi has to many wires coming out of it so I used the red one supplied with the kit it works good, Iam running it on a 140 Lifan pitpro with 30mm carb better coil and plug Uni filter and no other mods and it goes really well, I have played around with the timing for ages and I found all the way up is the go, it has a little less bottom end but mid to high power is super snappy and it sounds louder out the rear end for some reason, deffinately worth the money and its not that hard to fit just take your time and buy a cheap puller to get the old rotor of.
I have fitted a Kitaco Clone kit and oil sling from DHZ, If you havent fitted the lighter sling that could be the problem, The blue cdi has to many wires coming out of it so I used the red one supplied with the kit it works good, Iam running it on a 140 Lifan pitpro with 30mm carb better coil and plug Uni filter and no other mods and it goes really well, I have played around with the timing for ages and I found all the way up is the go, it has a little less bottom end but mid to high power is super snappy and it sounds louder out the rear end for some reason, deffinately worth the money and its not that hard to fit just take your time and buy a cheap puller to get the old rotor of.
kaneo
Well-Known Member
Well the verdict is in. My bike is really no quicker than my mates standard one. It definatly revs quicker but the wheelspin i get almost gets me left behind and the top speed is pretty much the same as his. Racing around a track i still find my 138 bike is better. It feels like a slug compared to the 140 but my lap times are quicker due to way less wheel spin i guess. If and when i do get traction the 140 flys though. Just got to get over the back a fair bit out of the corners. Funny watching the bikes being ridden by my mates, mine throws heaps more roost than the others. oh ,I found that running the pickup all the way up was way too retarded timing wise. It should not be sluggish down low at all DRAINO.
It definatly revs quicker but the wheelspin i get almost gets me left behind and the top speed is pretty much the same as his. Racing around a track i still find my 138 bike is better. It feels like a slug compared to the 140 but my lap times are quicker due to way less wheel spin i guess. If and when i do get traction the 140 flys though. Just got to get over the back a fair bit out of the corners. Funny watching the bikes being ridden by my mates, mine throws heaps more roost than the others. oh ,I found that running the pickup all the way up was way too retarded timing wise. It should not be sluggish down low at all DRAINO.
kaneo
Well-Known Member
Na it sounded like the limiter but the pickup was too close to the rotor and was hitting it at high revs. Moved it out a bit and it screams now. Please read all the posts in this topic before asking questions.
Rev limit is at 15000 on these kits. No way it would rev that hard ever.
Cactus Jack
Master Spanner Spinner
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It Takes Constant Patience to Get A Grip On It
What you need to do is go to a bigger front sprocket or a smaller rear to kill some of the torque in order to get your bike to hook up - sounds like a bigger tyre wouldn't hurt either ! 4 strokes actually accelerate faster if you make them pull a much taller first gear ! They DON'T like to get revved quickly thru the gears like a 2 stroke ~ you've got to run taller gearing and to hang onto each gear longer . Also - with your ported head - you need a fatter exhaust pipe 28 to 29 I/D ! People just don't realise it but they need to work the entire system all the way through - bigger carb , flowed inlet manifold and ports PLUS a bigger pipe to get more gas out ! No point in making your mouth bigger and stuffing more in if you're going to leave your a$$hole the same size .......LOL ...all you get is fat , sluggish , and consipated - same goes for engines !
What you need to do is go to a bigger front sprocket or a smaller rear to kill some of the torque in order to get your bike to hook up - sounds like a bigger tyre wouldn't hurt either ! 4 strokes actually accelerate faster if you make them pull a much taller first gear ! They DON'T like to get revved quickly thru the gears like a 2 stroke ~ you've got to run taller gearing and to hang onto each gear longer . Also - with your ported head - you need a fatter exhaust pipe 28 to 29 I/D ! People just don't realise it but they need to work the entire system all the way through - bigger carb , flowed inlet manifold and ports PLUS a bigger pipe to get more gas out ! No point in making your mouth bigger and stuffing more in if you're going to leave your a$$hole the same size .......LOL
...all you get is fat , sluggish , and consipated - same goes for engines ! No point in making your mouth bigger and stuffing more in if you're going to leave your a$$hole the same size .......LOL
LMFAO THAT IS THE BEST LINE I HAVE EVER READ ON THIS FORUM 10/10 FOR THAT ONE CACTUS YOU JUST MADE MY NIGHT BAH HA HA HA!!!
kaneo
Well-Known Member
What you need to do is go to a bigger front sprocket or a smaller rear to kill some of the torque in order to get your bike to hook up - sounds like a bigger tyre wouldn't hurt either ! 4 strokes actually accelerate faster if you make them pull a much taller first gear ! They DON'T like to get revved quickly thru the gears like a 2 stroke ~ you've got to run taller gearing and to hang onto each gear longer . Also - with your ported head - you need a fatter exhaust pipe 28 to 29 I/D ! People just don't realise it but they need to work the entire system all the way through - bigger carb , flowed inlet manifold and ports PLUS a bigger pipe to get more gas out ! No point in making your mouth bigger and stuffing more in if you're going to leave your a$$hole the same size .......LOL
TRUE. ive put a smaller sproket on the rear (41 back to a 39) and run a 3" rear tyre and it is better now. My exhaust has been sorted too. Its the same size all the way through as my exhaust port size. Did that when i did the other engine mods. I used to work at an engine dyno so ive had a bit of practice here. They are a long way from pro stock drag motors and nitro harleys though. I only weigh 65 kg too which probably doesnt help much on the traction side. Will have to eat more Maccas and beer.
At the dyno we found that exhausts usually make more power and torque when they get smaller towards the outlet .As the air cools down along the pipe it becomes smaller (in laymans words) which needs a smaller pipe to keep the air speed up. Therefore acting like a vacuum for the exhaust port. Just how much smaller is a pain to work out , takes forever and wastes a lot of exhaust systems so i just did the whole pipe big. Just something we used to play with a lot on the race motors. Huge gains or losses can be made here.
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