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krazed0451
Well-Known Member
As much as I have tried to resist: That's what she said!
grnman
Well-Known Member
i dont know what your talking about?
grnman
Well-Known Member
ringo
Certified MR Member
Seems the goods and reasonable price too!!
krazed0451
Well-Known Member
I wonder if it has any difference in oil channels... Didn't Hillz say that is the main issue?
grnman
Well-Known Member
yes i believe it is a lack of oil. would be interesting to see. i wonder if it is only the HotRods that is suppose to cure this problem or if the other after market ones all address this issue.
grnman
Well-Known Member
Ive got an update for you guys. the wheels are done and are on the bike. it looks freakin wicked in the real and im not trying to go for looks. definitely looks real long in the wheel base. the new rear spring i put in feels good. all that worry i had for nothing. K-tech did a good job calculating my weight and the application it is going to be used for. might need valving for fine tuning but feels very very ridable. now i just have to see if they got the front springs right.
i think im going to have to run it without the lower chain guide as it and the mount hit the tyre. im going to have to cut the mount off the swing arm. i dont run a chain guide on my big motard so it should be fine. well once i chop that mount off theres no going back.
here are some pics of the wheel and the bike at the moment. i think you'll agree it is starting to look fast.
i think im going to have to run it without the lower chain guide as it and the mount hit the tyre. im going to have to cut the mount off the swing arm. i dont run a chain guide on my big motard so it should be fine. well once i chop that mount off theres no going back.
here are some pics of the wheel and the bike at the moment. i think you'll agree it is starting to look fast.
TomaszBurcon
Well-Known Member
LOOKS SIK MATE GOOD WORK
krazed0451
Well-Known Member
Looking slick man!
Can you notch the chain guide/mount instead of removing it?
Can you notch the chain guide/mount instead of removing it?
grnman
Well-Known Member
its pretty bad on the tyre and ive try cutting away abit. but i could chop one side off the mount closest to the wheel and thread the one directly below the swinga.
ringo
Certified MR Member
Absolutely sweet dude!!!!
Best tard I've seen in a while!!!!!!
Best tard I've seen in a while!!!!!!
grnman
Well-Known Member
does anyone know where to get a a new rod put in a crank and balanced? how much? apparently the ProX rod that comes with the bottom end rebuild kit will fix the problem and is cheaper to do.
grnman
Well-Known Member
you can probably drop the forks 3cm or so. same as the KLX frame. but im going to ride it first as by going from a 17 inch and 14 inch wheel setup. 12 and 12 make the front rake look good. also there is alot of room to move around the bike so getting up the front will be easy.
i have not ridden it yet. the front brakes i think will last one day then they will be glazed over and probably bin-a-ble. there are some things i want to wait for first before i put it on track so i dont wreck the bike. its my money at stake here.
Why a CR may i ask? the thing that put me off the CR's were not having a powervalve and the progressive link suspension. progressive link is good if you want the initial shock movement to be soft, but you'll have a hard time stiffening it up. there are alot of brake setups you can do with the CR's as they share the same hub as the CRF150. there are alot of CR motarded out there so im sure they are good.
if you get one then make a build thread so others in AUS can follow. you'll be doing all the hard research though.
i have not ridden it yet. the front brakes i think will last one day then they will be glazed over and probably bin-a-ble. there are some things i want to wait for first before i put it on track so i dont wreck the bike. its my money at stake here.
Why a CR may i ask? the thing that put me off the CR's were not having a powervalve and the progressive link suspension. progressive link is good if you want the initial shock movement to be soft, but you'll have a hard time stiffening it up. there are alot of brake setups you can do with the CR's as they share the same hub as the CRF150. there are alot of CR motarded out there so im sure they are good.
if you get one then make a build thread so others in AUS can follow. you'll be doing all the hard research though.
ringo
Certified MR Member
One thing I noticed with the 12/12 set up is the pegs look shockingly close to the ground!! Let us know how you go with ground clearance when cornering Greeny!!
Dave your gunna be jetting it abit like from the time you get to dandy and to haft way threw the temp drops alot we jet the 80 s alot even if acouple of deggrees changes and you should take the airbox out and put a pod on it it will make it Easter to take off the carby to change jets and will make it go better
grnman
Well-Known Member
do you just change the main all the time? or both the pilot and main?
ringo
Certified MR Member
Just jet on the rich side and use that jetting everywhere!!! There is hp to find in jetting but at dandy from dusk to night you could change it 5 times, just leave it on the rich side!!
grnman
Well-Known Member
yeah i dont care about power gains. i think i will run it until it 4-strokes and then go down one jet.
