Discussion in 'Minibike Reviews' started by numroe, May 8, 2008.
the honda one will fit too!
I believe you. But the honda TRX125 part is (apparently) not sold in Australia.
Yeah i would like one too. Are you finding a fair amount of small metal when you take yours out to clean it. I seem to be getting less each time but everything feels and sounds ok still. Just wondering thats all.
You can get them off ebay US .... that's IF this is the right part ????? :
eBay Motors: ATV Oil Filter - 86-87 ATC125M & 87-88 TRX125 FourTrax (item 4653621687 end time Aug-07-08 17:12:57 PDT)
Same - less each time. I also have a magnetic drain plug which catches a lot. I think gear box run is important on these engines.
Cactus, thanks for the ebay link. I will do some more researching for now.
Here's another link with a good pic of one .... Is that the same as the Lifan filters ?
Honda Oil Filter ATC125M/TRX125 15412-HB6-003 - 15412-HB6-003
Thanks again. By memory, that looks pretty damn similar. Next week, I'll have to get mine out and compare. EOM Honda part too. Good price!
I meant to put up the PM link that mountain was talking about .......
Daytona oil filter? - Planet Minis
Yeah with US shippers you have to contact them first to get a firm shipping quote ..... some US ebay sellers will try to rort you by referring you to the shipping calculator ...... which is set way too high by them .....
I prefer to buy off sellers who take paypal since it's quick , easy , and less hassle ....... I don't like giving over credit card details .......
do the inner rotors work in them?
Why the hell would anybody want to do that?? ...they already have a kicka$$ ignition...why would somebody change that??
kick a$$....... u dont have a clue they better then stock but nothing over flash
wait i just realised they come with an outer rotor kit stock.
Sorry about stupid question
They are as good as Daytona ignitions....
The Lifan 150 does not need an IRK. It comes stock with a light weight rotor with adjustable ignition timing. I've never adjusted my timing. The engine feels very responsive as is, so I wont touch it.
Clutch update: I tried the 4 heavy clutch springs. The Akunar springs are about 150% of the length of the stockers and similar "gauge". Result = No slip, but way too hard to manually fan it. Did not like it! So I put two stock soft springs back in. So now 2 stiff and 2 soft. Feels much better, but still little too sensitive. With the 3 speed gearbox (effectively), gear selection is not always ideal, so I do need to fan the clutch at times. I think I'll have to hunt around for some different springs. Or maybe I use the stock springs and some different fiber plates.
Gear shifting update: I've been getting a bit harder on the gear shifting, but the box is holding up well. I always clutch flick when shifting. No mis shifts at all last weekend. Clicked up and down real nice and feels good on the left boot. Better than my 140. Next oil drain it'll be interesting to see how much metal is on the magnet. Surely less this time!
u should be embarrass staying comments like that, it show u do not have a single clue.
but hay it dose fit in well with the rest of your statments u make 99% of them BS
well ...then enlighten me whats sooo different on them...obviously you got huuuge knowledge...share it please!!
should try making a constructive post, and maybe build some of your own shit before you come out with statements like that
on topic, how are the lifan 150's holding up so farr? rate them as highly as the YX's?
Yeah my lifan is goin well still after a few good thrashings. I think the gearbox must be bedding in or something as i too havnt had any more faulse neutrals last couple of rides. On my third oil change and there seemed to be less metal on the filter this time too. Being an ex mechanic i was shocked at the amount of metal that came out on the first oil change. But its still going hard and no noises yet so fingers crossed. I dont rate the 150 yx, the power is on or off and they are noisy as hell. the 160 yx is pretty cool though.
the 150cc lifan rotor is better then stock rotors and IRK's but it lacks having enuf adavance to start nicely and give u the adavance at top rev's. Also if u have it set retarded on the backin plate it will start nice but will not rev out. If u adavane it on the backing plate it will be super hard to start and still not giving u enuf adavance to rev freely.
On there other hand Daytona rotors are digital and have a choice of 4 maps able to be use. all 4 of these maps are retarded enuf on start up making for easy start and at high rpm are adavance enuf for hard reving.
also have u been able 2 compaire both of them side by side, all the lifan ones we have had there center holes are drilled off center and to try and fix it they have had to drill arond 20holes to try and blance it to make it tru.
if u would like to see this your self get an timing light out an u will see where im coming from in no time man.
and daimojay as saying "and maybe build some of your own shit before you come out with statements like that" you must not no much about the australian mini scean.
-we won the 2008 minimotard title, (3 round comp- won it in the first 2 rounds.......... 3rd one havnt been held yet)
- Have the only 2 daytona DOHC in australia
- first ppls to get 28/24 mm valves on an daytona 125cc motor
- made pitbikes with twin disk brakes (havnt seen another yet)
- made countless racing motors for race teams and customers
Likewise the amount of metal in the oil drains worried me a bit. Dare I say it - it now shifts as good as the typical jap MX bike. Fingers also crossed! I'd suggest anyone buying one of these Lifan 150 engines to gradually run in the gears, and always kick start it with care. Then a good long life engine will probably be the result. btw: A magnetic drain plug is a real good option. Initially the magnet comes out with a big oil+metal "afro" on it!
Kaneo, If you think the YX power is too on/off, then you might love the Lifan 150 with the A1 cam. I think my engine is so much better now than stock. The carb, jetting, valves and ports might also be helping, but for sure the cam swap was totally noticeable.
With the A1, it has really versatile torque over a wide rev range. eg. In a wide variety of ruts I can lay it over aggressively and always power out staying in 2nd or 3rd gear and keep side balance and turn rate via the throttle alone. The main limitations are trying to find somewhere to put my inside leg and hip, the pegs dragging or flicking a lot and as mentioned the front disc carves badly at times in left hand ruts. The engine is pretty snappy too, so I'd imagine things to not be so easy in slippery conditions.
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