M1GP24 24hr Endurance Race Stock Crf50

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215crew

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Jan 27, 2008
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Location
Thousand Oaks, Cali
Hi guys it been a very long time sense I have been on here. We'll my team and I will be racing a 24 hr endurance race at Willow. We will be racing in the Cup 50 class which is pretty much stock. I know most of the little stuff to gain 1/4 hp here and there to get a little gain. And some of you old timers on here know I've built some mean motors. But I want to hear from all of you as to what you would do to allow yourself to keep a crf50 running strong for 24 hrs straight. Can't wait to hear what we can come up with.
 

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Nothing. :)

Most reliable motors on the planet as is.

Sounds like a fun event. Share some pics. :)
 
fresh oil every 10 hours

maybe front mount oil cooler but it should make the distance no probs
 
fresh oil every 10 hours

maybe front mount oil cooler but it should make the distance no probs

I need to see if they allow a oil cooler or not. That would keep it much cooler in the So Cal heat. That was one thing I was also thinking about was how often to change the oil. 10 hrs seems about right but what oil do you think would be best? I run Lucas in all my stuff plus I treat with Zmax.
 
I also was thinking 24 hrs on action pro throttle going to be able to hack it? And is there a simple way to stiffen the front springs.?
 
do you need to use all standard oem suspension/engine parts ?

you might be able to add some spacers to to top of the springs for more preload?

what about little things like a decent quality plug lead/cap NGK etc
and use some dielectric grease in all your terminals/connections

hard anodised aftermarket alloy sprockets will help save weight, and give the bike a touch more response
Titanium ones are even better, like the Sidewinder Titanium 2's, they're about 40% dearer than decent sprockets but they have a lifetime guarantee too, costs around $125 for the rear one.


can you run lightened flywheels ?
get one of the Daytona/Lifan150 adjustable set ups, quicker response, and you can adjust the timing to suit the track conditions
this aussie seller has them cheap on ebay- you might be able to add some spacers to to top of the springs for more preload?


what clutch kit are you running, TB and a few others have some nice billet clutch's
 
Hi guys it been a very long time sense I have been on here. And some of you old timers on here know I've built some mean motors.
i wasn't around here back in 2008,
i cant tell anything about the mean engines you've built, going by your 2 previous posts (before today)
 
i wasn't around here back in 2008,
i cant tell anything about the mean engines you've built, going by your 2 previous posts (before today)

I'm a PM guy I drifted away about a year after Brad started this fourm. I use to build YX motors and a few 124 crf bottoms. The big difference is I raced almost all the So Cal races. If we win our motors are torn down and checked. I'm thinking of running crf70 carb minus choke. We can have bars, rear shocks, can replace or adjust front springs, air filter , jetting and cdi box. I will pick up a new NGK plug cap and some gel. What I'm wondering is there any gain with crf70 cam? The goal is to get the most out of a stock motor with some small cheats that won't get you busted.
 
Thinking about it the so cal sun would be a killer. Oil cooler would be a good addition. Bigger oil slinger as well.

I reckon you could go 24hours without changing oil in them.

Reckon Hillz went 3 years with about 100 hours on it running on old car oil no worries. haha
 
Thinking about it the so cal sun would be a killer. Oil cooler would be a good addition. Bigger oil slinger as well.

I reckon you could go 24hours without changing oil in them.

Reckon Hillz went 3 years with about 100 hours on it running on old car oil no worries. haha
Lol 100 hrs lol never thought about a bigger slinger hhhmmm if I run Lucas in it I think I can get 24 hrs out of it.
 
Yeah be worth checking it out. Usually when you go an 88 upwards kit you chuck a bigger oil slinger in it.

It would get noticed if it got pulled down but it's not a performance modification. More an engine protection measure. :)

Maybe just check every 8 hours and top the oil that's in it up? A full oil change is going to cost you too much time.
 
ok i haven't really looked around on PM that much.


so what has been done so far internally ?
and all the usual thing like deburring the exhaust header pipe have been done too ?


blueprinting everything should be within the rules of Cup 50 class shouldn't it?
match porting everything, 3-5 angle valve jobs, opening up the oil gallery that feeds the top

you could probably get away with a Dynojet kit then too ?
 

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