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Yeh man all VLs have rb30s. My old VL used to dose... also had an external waste gate and screamer pipe
 
They came factory with Garret t03's. My wagon had a t3 highflow which is pretty much t4 internals in a t3 housing. It was a quick car. Ive only got the stock setup for my other vl so it wont go as hard unless i wind the boost up.
 
I bought a new headlight globe

BLUEBA20DTEXT.jpg


there a bit brighter than standard, got a higher color temperature, but no way near 7500k as claimed.
 
My hid headlight kit came, measured the current with a clampmeter.

I initial = 6.5A
I running = 4.4A

Open Circuit battery voltage = 12.5V
Load Battery Voltage = 12.10V

Power Consumed Initial = 81.25w
Power Consumed Running = 53.24w

Here's a question, how long will the headlight stay on for when riding?
 
You would need to know stuff like how much current your stator can put out and how many amp hours your battery is... So for example if your stator put out 2 amps then in 1 hour the battery will have charged 2 Ah in and the lights would have drawn say 5 Ah out, so if you have a 20 Ah battery you'll be able to ride with the light on for around 6.5 hours.
 
i know this, just dont know the charging current.
I think ill be right for the riding i do at night which is only like 20min max.
 
RXs head lights are **** and i do just as much night riding as i do day riding.
 
Ok got the hid in, wired both the high beam and low beam on the bikes loom to the active from the ballast to lower resistance and half the current on a single wire.

it would run without the engine for about 10 seconds then die, this is due to the 6A start up current.

with the engine running, a lil bit of rpm will get it passed the ballast's start up sequence and will continue to run normally on idle with no fluctuations!

haven't ridden it yet as its raining atm, but things are looking up, even with the standard chinga battery!

And to mention the light output, its KEN BRIGHT 8000K!
 
Update

HID failed last nite while in town, was riding round with the parker on, roads without street lights are scary at 80km/h.
 
hey dabomb was the electric start able to turn over the worked engine? any reason u took it off?
 
Motovert Pro said:
What do you mean failed?
Shorted out,not enough power supply?
Click to expand...

not enough continuous power to run them.

DvDRip said:
hey dabomb was the electric start able to turn over the worked engine? any reason u took it off?
Click to expand...

yeah it could start the bike, electric start motors are just another thing that can go wrong and add weight to the bike.

not to mention what that tiny chain hooked around the back of the magneto, (makes funny noises) and the tiny sprocket on the motors armature, they tend to explode under cold cranking scenarios :)

also found that the engine was more likely to kickback when using the starter motor = air filter lets the smoke out.
 
hey mate, might i suggest using 12v cree downlight globes? they have a shitload of light output and only draw about 0.3 to 0.5 of an amp, jaycar have them. give em a look.
 
interesting, but what i fear with leds is their lack of distance when they shine onto the road.
 
nah not really bruv, put the incandescent globe back in but thats about it.
 
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