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my67xr

Miniriders Legend and Master Spanner Spinning Mode
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finally starting a thread on my new/used Atomik Fuse
it came with a dead 125 lifan, (broken gearbox and casings)
i originally bought it for parts, brakes etc, but knew it wouldnt take much to get it up and running.

i pulled the 150 (1P56FMJ) out of the Orion, (my customising my Orion thread)
and fitted it into the Atomik, basically went straight in.
now i'm unsure if it's a Lifan or older type YX? can anyone confirm it?

i have fitted a lot of new Unbrako bolts to upgrade the china rubbish,
and made a new coil mount and welded that onto the frame up under the tank as i didnt like the coil hanging off the side of the frame.
i have also made a bracket and mounted a 50cc quad bike fender to the crossbar at the front of the swingarm,
this should stop some of the dirt/mud/debris from covering the shock, and the relocated airfilter.
it didn't have side covers when i bought it either, but i've fitted a pair of KLX ones for the time being.

i will be buying some new TTR side covers and a few upgrades for the bike as money permits.
plus some new bars, grips, kill switch, decal kit, tyres etc.

another mod im doing is fitting a gear position indicator up at the tripples,
picked it up off ebay china for $4 delivered, just need to wire it to the gear position switch off the selector drum.
and i'm also adding a battery, regulator/rectifier and some high powered headlights and a tail light too at some stage for chasing the bunnys after dusk...:lol:

the bike rides pretty nice compared to others i've ridden, not quite as smooth as the linkage setups, eg my Orion etc
i had a couple of minor problem taking it for a short shakedown run.
the nut holding the bottom shocker mount onto the shocker shaft came undone, and off the shaft.
i used loctite to secure that back on, as well as most of the other nuts/bolts, and fitted a heap of Nylocs where they were needed too while i was at it.
the other problem was on the next ride, when i was riding the 7km's around the boundary fence, the exhaust flange bolts/studs came loose.
the header pipe fell off after 6km but the bash guard stopped it from falling right off.
fixed that with a new stud and loctite when i got to the shed .
otherwise it all went well...


here are some pics so far,
sorry the quality isn't that good atm, i'm using a dodgy china Galaxy S3

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cheers, craig
 
new coil mount, old/original is to the left behind/below the tank cover
also i didnt mention i have a china splitfire twincore plug lead, and NGK CR7HIX irridium spark plug.

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gear position indicator,
note the headstem nut needs replacing, damn surface rust...
and you can see some of the new Unbrako bolts, not too clearly though!

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shocker/air filter mudguard, cost $3 from a guy selling the 50cc quads at the brickworks weekend markets here

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a couple of other things i've done to it are
fitted a new DID chain, swapped the 14 tooth front sprocket to a 17 tooth
it isn't too good on my minibike track now though, i cant almost get right around it in 1st gear,
2nd gear in one straight for a couple of seconds.
but top end is better for the 2km long driveway, and boundary fence.
guess i can just swap it over to suit the area im riding, both sprockets adjust up with the same length chain.

another thing im looking for, is the wiring loom for the Outer Rotor kit i have, and a CDI to suit.
ebay have the pair for $32 delivered if bought seperately
im just running the standard lifan type atm, getting a big kickback sometimes though..
 
thanks Harry,
yeah it looks the same, gunmetal grey jobbie.

when searching for parts for it, the 1P56FMJ comes up as a YX sometimes though?
this one has a 1 down, 3 up box in it.
i have another motor basically the same, black version, but it has the all up gearbox.
the spare 150 motor has a cracked case though, due to a broken kickstart gear possibly?
 
ps,
i really need a new battery for my Galaxy S2, these pics look like they were taken in the 70's :cursing:
 
ah ok, mines all up, so must be a yx or odd lifan. have seen someone on here with a 1 down 3 up lifan 150 i think.
 
hey bud should bring this out to the 24th feb ride day
 
here are a couple of pics from the weekend before last, wife took them and a couple of videos too.
she had the same problem as last time, her timing was way out.
and she also accidentaly deleted the videos too...


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Looks def like a lifan 150 craig, the older yx150 had the cooler lines run to the heat sync on the head where the lifan lines ran to the crank, chasin bunnies after dark, i reckon a rifle rack and mount would look pretty cool mate.
Looks damn dry there mate, your not near the city eh?
 
the last few pics were from the inlaws place, a couple of hours away.
in 2012 they got 59mm of rain for the whole year.
the rabbits dug a huge hole (2 foot round, 18" deep) just after my little jump, i had to fill it in.
but it makes the landings a bit dodgy sometimes, so loose
i made the track in the lowest part of the property, so it stays more compacted,
but after chasing my 12 year old in the buggy for 20 or more laps, the dirt gets loose and soft , down to about 2" down, slippery when powering on out of the corners etc.
and the red dust sucks, gets into everything.

the roo's are more fun to chase, they get up to about 75/80 kmph through the bushes
 
today i made up a mount for the battery and the regulator/rectifier,
getting it ready for fitting the headlight and gear indicator.
there is plenty of room up under the seat, i used an old 351 Falcon cro-moly pushrod for the regulator mount,
i welded it in a bit closer to the front seat bracket than pictured here.

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and also made and welded in a battery cradle too,

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my new headlight arrived today too, i have dummied up a mount for it and tested it out.
it puts out a huge amount of light,
it has 9x 3watt Cree Leds, (27watts of power) 2150 lumens of light,
the eqiv of about a 90watt halogen globe, but the Led lamp only draws 1.1 watt of power.
the beam is a floodlight type beam, so spreads out about the same as a car headlight.
i tried it out tonight, it lights up almost my whole backyard,
then i aimed it at the big gumtree in my neighbours yard, lights that up well too

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here is a link to the light-
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/300852188435?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
 
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I like that battery holder mate, you gonna put a rubber strap around the battery or something?
You know what I think would look sick? a crf70 number plate. Would suit the bike me thinks.
Can you tilt the light up a bit or is it ok like that? might have to make a bit of a cut out in the plastic to allow for it?
 
thanks guys,

yeah, i have a rubber battery strap, you can see the hook just behind the battery in the second picture of post #14
then the other end hooks up underneath at the front of the battery mount.
the headlight is aimed to put most of the light about 20 feet infront of the bike.
but it spreads out to light up from the front of the front wheel, to about 40 feet infront
i will make up a custom fibreglass shroud to suit it, possibly something like this.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1981-198...orcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item257998dce5
i will remount the headlight about 50mm lower then.

isnt the crf70 front number plate basically the same as the original Fuse one?
i may even take a fibreglass mould from that and have a play around and adapt it to that.
 
Bloody nice craig, i too thought the battery rack was a very nice touch and design, its def not slapped together and can tell you have put thought into everything you have done.
 
cheers mick,
i still might lighten the battery tray with a few more speed holes,


i have gone with a fibreglass version of the standard front numberplate for the moment.
i waxed up the numberplate with some auto body wax, to help the fibreglass plate to seperate from the plastic one.
then layed down a layer of woven fibreglass matting, and covered it up with some UV cure fibreglass resin.
next it was left in the sun for half an hour to set/harden.

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after 20 mins in the sun it was 80% cured/hardened, so i moved it back into the shade
and evenly covered it in resin, and layed another layer of matting on top of the first.
then brushed a final layer of resin over the top again to fill any imperfections.
the plate is now back in the sun again curing.

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now im waiting for it to dry enough to not be tacky,
then i can pop the new number plate off the original, and start modifying it to suit the new Led light.


cheers, craig
 

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