my Braaap Pro Daytona 190F Anima

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Very nice Scalvini pipe you have there,
you wouldn't get much change from $800 by the time it is posted would you ?
Half the purchase price of my bike !!
You better get a video showing off the sound and post it in your build thread for us now !!
 
l sold my soul for that pipe. My misses is on to me .l told her it cost me $60 .
Februarys a big month for me 2 car registrations and 2 car insurance due. lm off to work.
l think she may be reading this thread !!.
 
my67xr said:
I wish i had measured how much my Fuse weighed while the Braaap was here
I just put Braaap on the scales,
it weighs 41kg at the rear wheel and 38 kg's at the front, so around 80kg's with a full tank

The Fuse 150cc weighs 83kg Gross according to Atomiks' site

Maybe the Braaap has too much weight up the top end of the frame, making it feel heavier ?
My Fuse was so easy to move around.
Click to expand...

i know im a bit late here but just thought id let you know they are 73kg (got the ycf wholesale catalog in front of me)
 
Yeah Braaap has 69kg dry weight in the spec's for the 190 Pro Factory, so 1 litre of oil 1kg, 3 litres of fuel 3 kg works out to 73kg gross
Still it's heveier than the Fuse.

Braaaps' new bike the MX1 is getting released in may , the frame is better set up and has a lower centre of gravity.
They aren't giving away to much info on the new frame yet though.

d3685d70-1348-479f-89d0-1eb2c97feb9c.jpg
 
im gonna wait before i say whats better! im not anti braaap but they do claim alot of things! i really liked the ycf bike! we will see if they make improvements on it! keen to see it though! i know ycf want to use their own name in aus now! after speaking with them myself at work!
 
Yeah YCF have a few dealers in Australia now.
I wonder if YCF are bringing out a new bike too ?
 
There are already 5 dealers in QLD so can't be that much.

Think because of the better build quality they will be quite attractive to big bike shops to have a few.

I reckon they will kick a lot of goals in AUS and drive braaap right out of the market.

I have been speaking to the AUS distributor a bit. :)

Miniriders is fast becoming the Iselect for midsize and mini's.
 
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it may be worth it for a bike shop thats just starting but the min floor stock wont get any already reputable pitbike shops stocking! not for the price they gave us! lets see how long those 5 dealers stay alive! in person i honestly dont see the quality everyone talks about. its all good but still made in china unlike most claim
 
It won't be pitbike shops that sell them Nicko. Your way off the mark.

It will be big bike shops that want a decent midsize offering regardless of where they are made.

The quality is definitely there and the name in Europe is bigger than any other brand.

I think they will go really well over here and shake up a lot of the bigger plays. It's a good thing. Means a better quality bike at the end of the day.
 
your hopes are very high for a new (not hating but is def over priced) brand in a dying scene! lets see how many dealers there are in 12months! i hope it does well! just my opinion!
 
nicko451 said:
your hopes are very high for a new (not hating but is def over priced) brand in a dying scene! lets see how many dealers there are in 12months! i hope it does well! just my opinion!
Click to expand...
I'm not hating either, but Umm dying scene? What? Not what I've heard, I'd say it's the opposite personally!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I ordered a digital temp gauge ($20 inc delivery) for the Braaap late last week, hopefully shouldn't take too long to arrive from china
Then i'll just remove the magnet then drill and tap one of the magnetic sump plug's i have here for the sender unit to screw into.
I will wire it up through a reg/rect and a capacitor to run it off, i have them laying around too.
Univesal 37mm Purple RED Digital Display CAR Water Temp Temperature Gauge Meter | eBay

temp gauge.JPG

temp gauge 2.JPG

temp gauge 3.JPG
 
Took the Braaap for a 3.5 hour drive up to gottagetacheaperhobby's on the weekend for a ride.
Tried out a bigger main jet in it but it gave it a real stutter when i opened it up so the 110 main went back in.
Stu and i had a couple of run's against each other too, Braaap 2 / Motovert 0
I've got a lot more confidence opening it up on the flat hard stuff than on the track
I'm needing a lot more practice on it for sure.



 
Were you going to mount that .? update on my temp gauge. It reads between 91 -93 degrees .
This was last time l was out doing a hill climb. Then dropped to 88 when l was out into open space
 
I blew out on your 190 not running with anything above the 110, crazy low mains but it works. Love the torque of the 190, the engine felt nice on the track, just didn't like how low the front felt... I would of liked to run the tb headed 178 against the 190, I reckon the taki headed donk was jetted to rich. Get some more laps under your belt on the track next time so we can have a proper battle ;)
 
Gauge was delivered this morn, was quicker than i expected.

I saw a small smudge on the lense and wiped it with a soft cloth, the temperature symbol wiped off !! lol
So i took the lense out of the housing and gave it 3 coat's of 2K clear to make sure the little °C symbol doesn't rub off too.

look's like it'll be easy to mount, i took the screw's out that hold the mounting plate to the housing and will make up a bracket to hold it inside the r/h tank shoud.
It's got 10-15mm clearance to the fork's so shouldn't be a problem and it doesn't look out of place either.
Wiring is long enough to reach the bottom of the engine too.







 
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I've modified the secondary oil screen drain plug (just below the stator cover) to accept the temp sender unit (part #8 in bottom picture)
The stator cover should give it protection from the top, and i might make up an alloy shield to protect it from underneath and the front later too.
The oil screen also needed modifying buy denting the centre of the screen back inside so the sender unit will clear (part #17 in bottom pic)
I cant see it affecting the screen's performance.
The senders' thread is 1/8" BSPT for anyone wanting to do this, the tapped thread into the plug is only 4 thread's deep due to it being thin alloy, but i plan to make up something more permanent once i see how it all work's.
I'll probably use a 1/4" BSPT to 1/8" BSPT adapter screwed into the plug first, then the sender into that so it's got a better bite into the thread's


I used 2x copper washer's to help the sender unit seal against the plug
So it's ready to fit to my engine and try it out

Now i just need to wire up the regulator/rectifier and capacitor to the stator wiring so it's got power and i'm all good to try it out.
















WHS-2735Crankcase.png
 
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