OWNER REVIEW: Pitster Pro x4r

Discussion in 'Minibike Reviews' started by pbk, Jan 17, 2010.

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  1. Jan 25, 2010 #41

    wogtaz ryder

    wogtaz ryder

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    Yer so was i , but i reckon it should hold out for a long time .

    All the force is pulling the sprocket Anti clockwise , and the bolts are stopping it from going clockwise , so i think it should be good , i always check it and its still tight as.
     
  2. Jan 25, 2010 #42

    SGONE

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    sounds like pitster needs to take note of this problem and find a solution instead of every time someone sheds light on it pitster ignore it like the thread wogtaz posted on PM they were quick to delete that..
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2010
  3. Jan 25, 2010 #43

    wogtaz ryder

    wogtaz ryder

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    Agree , thanks for reminding me, mite have to put up another thread for that.. dog as
     
  4. Jan 25, 2010 #44

    pbk

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    yer tell me when you put thread up as i will put a post in it too
     
  5. Jan 25, 2010 #45

    DvDRip

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    PBK get hi-tensile bolts split washers and red/fullstrength locktight, and turn it anticlockwise as woggy says, that should fix it up
     
  6. Jan 25, 2010 #46

    pbk

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    yes that reduces the dodyness to about 15%!!!.... i dont want any dodgyness on my pitster pro lol
     
  7. Jan 26, 2010 #47

    pbk

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  8. Feb 5, 2010 #48

    pbk

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    ok well i offcialy got sick of changing air filters hal way through a day of riding

    so i decided to do what an old member did (numroe) and put my airfilter under my seat tho i got off easy with mine... i had a industrial vaccum cleaner in shed i realised that it had a ID of 51mm the OD of the oko carb is 50.5mm (yesssss)

    so i cut a piece to lengh and after realisng i was putting my filter in a more vulnerable i whipped a little shield for. i have a heap of chlorine buckets in the shed so i cut one up and being white fits in with my pastics.

    i cut some shapes out my shield so it fit nicely and drilled some holes in it so i could cable tie to the subframe

    they pictures are fairly self explanatory any questions i will answer

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This pic you can see i put a piece of more solid rubber on the carb first so i could clamp it on with a bit more ease and it dosent want to come off now

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Feb 5, 2010 #49

    pbk

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  10. Feb 5, 2010 #50

    pbk

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  11. Feb 5, 2010 #51

    mboyg1

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    thats a great idea! nice work PBK and great bike!
     
  12. Feb 5, 2010 #52

    sean01

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    nice work man, just remember to leave enough room for the shock against the inner guard thing ya made as the shock will pivot a bit..
     
  13. Feb 6, 2010 #53

    pbk

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    test one fail....

    seemed to running slightly rich right up top (didnt seem to want to rev right out and hit something that sounded similar to valve bouncing (no it wasnt valve bouncing)

    then i seemed to get an air leak somewhere and it the revs didnt want to drop

    and finally got water on the filter

    i suppose it wasnt a very controlled test (filter was still dirty)

    filter wasnt attached 100%

    i picked the wetest day possible

    so in the pics above you can see that the cdi is a bit in the way so i might move that somewhere else and put filter in a bit deeper

    and the rubber spacer on the carb (for my duct hose thing) is a bit long and sort of curls back in so probly didnt help

    any other suggestions to fix it?
     
  14. Mar 4, 2010 #54

    pbk

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    *UPDATE*

    well i finnally ripped out the rear tube... it didnt even have any rim tape nothing so considering the circumstances i got lucky for it to last this long but tyre has already worn down to easily 65% so i decided i need a new tyre for the race anyway but once i did the maths it will be about $120 for tyre rim tape rim lock and fitting of the tyre and they most well do the rim lock while they are at it

    im thinking of kenda millville and
     
  15. Mar 4, 2010 #55

    wogtaz ryder

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    No rim tape at all?

    Id say when you rooted the tube and it ripped out the tape went out with it or before it .
    i doubt a tube would last minutes without a rim strap.

    Just checked my original wheel and its got rim tape and a rim lock
     
  16. Mar 4, 2010 #56

    wogtaz ryder

    wogtaz ryder

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    No rim tape at all?

    Id say when you rooted the tube and it ripped out the tape went out with it or before it .
    i doubt a tube would last minutes without a rim strap.

    Just checked my original wheel and its got rim tape and a rim lock
     
  17. Mar 4, 2010 #57

    pbk

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    no rim tape just like my front wheel
     
  18. Mar 4, 2010 #58

    Peter1230

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    wogtaz i was there when it happneed.

    saw the tyre go flat and then wobble..
    told PBK to stop.
    saw no rim tape in the rim..

    pretty poor for an x4r.. donno maybe u got the lemon wheel lol.

    oi liam wanna try get my tyre off too?,....

    im thinking kenda millville too.
     
  19. Mar 7, 2010 #59

    DvDRip

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    hey PBK I'm looking at buying an x4r frame and would really appreciate some help from you.

    would you be able to measure the swingarm from the center of the pivot bolt all the way to the furthest point on the end.

    And the length of the rear shock from eye to eye. And what weight is the shock spring?

    And with the footpeg mount it looks like yours is bolted to the frame :S would a normal footpeg mount like was on ur DHZ bolt on to this frame?

    anything else you can see that is unusual and might not fit your average pitbike frame?
     
  20. Mar 8, 2010 #60

    pbk

    pbk

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    ok i will get measurements for you later but can tell you half the things now

    yes footpegs are botled on so no normal mounts will not work unless you can cut and weld fairly well

    shock spring weight is 850lbs/pound

    and i dont belive there is anything else unusal
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2010

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