Pitster pro X4R

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Do you think i should drop a clip on the needle? it's running leaner than before with the new lead.
 
I got a exhaust leak where the muffler and pipe connect and out of 2 missing bolts in the muffler, will this effect performance in any way?
 
yeah it'll affect it slightly, instead of your exhaust gasses running straight out, un-obstructed, they mix around, to try and get out the leak. just put 2 new bolts in and you'll be fine.
 
Just came back from the track, had a few problems. While riding my clutch gets hard to pull in and doesn't disengage the engine, after a few hard revs the clutch goes soft again. Also got also of false neutrals on the little jumps when i landed. I'm thinking new shift drum, gear box and clutch. would that fix these problems?
 
The clutch nut may have loosened itself mate. May have to pull the clutch case off and check. As for false neutrals try adjusting your gear lever down one or two notchs on the spline as your foot gets lazy shifting up as opposed to down.

If it aint broke, break it.
 
I did put the gear shifter up because of the mx boots so that must be the problem, do you know if the 6 plate clutch goes into the 5 plate 155z? DHZ told me it doesn't.
 
I've been having weird rear brake problems the past few weeks, two weeks ago the back brakes weren't working randomly and then the next day they were perfect, and now the back wheel is locking up while riding? i opened the bleeding nipple to let some air out but then my brother let air into the system. Do i just need to bleed the brakes by pushing down on the lever a couple of times, hold it down, then open and close the nipple and releasing? Also i purchased a new rear brake kit about 6 months ago from DHZ so i doubt there is anything wrong with the brakes in terms of seals ect.
 
there are 2x slides (pins that the caliper moves in and out on) that the caliper moves in and out on, they are usually bolted or welded to the rear caliper mount.
if you ever high pressure clean your bike, it may have got water/mud etc in there past the rubber seals.
this can cause rust on the slides, and can cause the caliper become sticky or to stay in one spot.
if this happens you wont have very good rear brakes, sometimes none at all.

if you take the rear axle half way out and drop the caliper and mounting plate out, you may find the problem.
try and slide the caliper away from the plate, if it is sticky or wont move at all,
then you need to pull it off completely, carefully pry it off without damaging the caliper.
clean up the 2 pins that the caliPer slide on, and use some rubber grease on the slides and inside the caliper slides

here's some from SCA-
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/on...Disc-Brake-Lube-6g-BBL1.aspx?pid=323995#Cross
 
Thanks for the detailed response, there's no locking up or resistance whatsoever in the back wheel after opening up the bleeding nipple, this means that if i bleed the brakes everything should be normal right?
 
Thanks for the detailed response, there's no locking up or resistance whatsoever in the back wheel after opening up the bleeding nipple, this means that if i bleed the brakes everything should be normal right?

If the brakes are spongey as hell and or stuck on the try it.
take the rear wheel off and force the brake pads to separate with a old blunt screwdriver.
 

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