PitsterPro XTR 150?

[low_rb]

Got my boys new bike today and ive got a couple questions as im not real uptodate with these things.

Is it a XTR 150 as the pics ive found when googleing almost all bikes have a upright motor.
How do i tell what the forks are as i cant find any markings on them at all, have comp and rebound adjustment.
Shock is a GPX
Engine code is 1P60yMJ was told it was a 155 but is now 180 somthing
both head and barrel have TB castings on them

and lastly will i have enough room in the swingarm and forks to fit a 17/14 wheel combo?

Cheers

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

That's a lxr, good buy. The forks will have a m stamped in the fork leg if they are marzochies, otherwise most likely gpx black labels. Engine has had the tb bbk nd race head installed so it will go very well, how experienced is your son?
It depends on the year as to whether the big wheels will fit, I think post 2009 they will pre 2009 they won't but that's not 100 percent..

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[low_rb]

Thanks Mate,
Im going to go with black lables for the forks as i cant find marzochies signature "M" anywere on them.
Can you get different springs for the black lables as there a little stiff for his weight, suposedly its set for 80-90kg i dont even weigh that much geared up with 3l water but it does squat down quite a bit when i sit on it.

Hes not that experienced but will soon learn, he came off a MX 110SS and was strting to realy thrash that.

Seems pretty east to kick to me so it might be due for rings, ive checked and it dosnt have auto decomp and the cam chain seems loose to me. Ill have to get a manual so i can check/set it.

Current gap of the swingarm looks like i might get a 14 on the rear but it will be close if it does.

 

[my67xr]

Have you checked the valve/rocker clearance's ? set them to .003" inlet and .004" exhaust (@ tdc on the compression stroke)
The TB 64mm Cylinder/Piston would bring it up to 184cc

You might be able to give the fork's an oil change and use some thinner oil in them, 10w or 5w ?

 

[low_rb]

Havnt got to the valves yet ,tomorrow job that one

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

My son has basically the same bike, a psto tl, with the same engine, and he is 12. His black labels do seem stiffer than my zochies, with the same weight oil in both.. If the big wheel combo doesn't fit it will more likely be the front you have issues with, fouling on the head when the forks are compressed.
I will say that my boy can't kick his bike over, and that's with a taki decomp setup in the head...

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[low_rb]

Going to need a new cam chain as the tensioner is fully extended. might have to knock up a manual for the intrem as i wont have time to go get parts before xmas

Exhaust valve was in spec but the inlet needed about 1/2 turn out before i could get the feeler gauge in there

Also he said the Kill switch was removed as this model had issues with the kill switch killing the CDI?

 

[my67xr]

Yeah it doesn't take much to convert them to manual adjustment.
A Tokyo Mod's manual adjuster will cost you around $160 !! lol

More likely the kill switch failed, i've never heard of a kill switch causing the cdi to fail ?
Get a good/better quality one, or use a standard one and fit some better insulation between the wire's inside the switch and the handlebar's.
You can pick these up for around $20 inc delivery if you search hard enough.

 

[low_rb]

$160 for one of them, gee im pretty sure i could get a manual one for the 450 i had for less than that,
I did get a timing chain today was the only one they had, diddnt take much notice as i was on my way somewhere, got home and its not wide enough. Was after closing time so i might be lucky if im in there first thing as i know one of them is heading to brisbane, just hope i get there before they leave.

If not i knocked up a prototype manual one so he can at least ride it.
Ill make a better one, diddnt get the thread for the bolt straight and it was hitting on the inside of the hole so had to enlarge the other holes so i could twist it around a bit.



Ill look into those kill switches.
Another thing i need to track down is a silencer tip for the FMF 4.1 , dam the thing is loud.

 

[mikkh]

I have heard the CDI failure on those 8 pin CDI´s, but the solution is to just ground the stator pick up wire (the blue w white striped wire coming from the stator instead the wire from cdi) to the green wire instead.

 

[low_rb]

Thanks mikkh, saved me trying to figure it out

 

[my67xr]

Did you get a Lifan type roller chain ?
YX/Zongshen use the Silent type timing chain's
PitsterPRO 160HO Engine Cam Chain ? Buy Online Australia at DHZ

You can mod your chain tensioner, drill and tap it to accept a bolt, add a lock nut and it's done
This is one Terry modified.

The kill switch can't damage the cdi,
if anything they'd damage the stator winding's, the kill switch just earth's the signal/power from the stator to the cdi so the cdi has no power to send through to the ignition coil.
If there is no blue wire on your Z160 stator, the pickup coil could also have a red w/white stripe and a black which is earth.

 

[low_rb]

Thats what the chain i got looked like but it was a couple plates thinner so wouldnt go over the sprocket.
I might be lucky and have one tomorrow, if not ill just use the one i knocked up untill i get one.

Is there any advantage to running a manual tensioner and how do you set them properly?

ANd do these TB top end kits all use the same cylinder and they just bore the differently as i see this on has 143 cast into it where the bash plate bolts on on the cam chain side

 

[my67xr]

With the manual timing tensioner's you don't have to worry about resetting it before you refit it like you need to do with the auto tensioner's
Failure to reset an auto tensioner before refitting result's in a very stretched timing chain and possibly worn out guide's

Setting the manual timing chain tensioner is easy.
With the engine at tdc on the compression stroke, do up the manual tensioner so that there's 5mm up and down movement/play on the timing chain half way between the cam sprocket and the chain slide at the top
Now start the bike and let it idle,
back off the tensioner until it start's to get noisy, then adjust it in so the chain noise just stop's, now back it off 1/4 turn and do up the lock nut and that's it


Tb would have the cylinder's made to their spec's then have them Ceramic coated and finished
Does it have the TB emblem cast into the top right fin's ?
143 may be the batch number
I'm pretty there's a big bore kit for the KLX110/DRZ110 made by either TB or BBR that has 143 cast into it, that kit has a 60mm bore, the same size as the standard Z155HO / Z160HO's

This is an original TB 64mm cylinder

 

[low_rb]

Cool , thanks for that.
Hopefully the correct chain comes back from brisbane today. Ill be running the auto as it still works smooth.

The TB logo is on the right hand fin, same as the head. Im not overly bothered if its the 184 or not brought it as i needed a bigger manual bike havine that upgraded is a bonus.

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

Yeah the tb 143 kit is made for the klx 110, keeps the 160ho as stock bore like Craig said. It will still go very well with that, the main difference between the 2 is torque, my old engine W's th same as yours seems to be, and it made very similar power to my current engine, the 184 version.

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[mikkh]

Well the Z160HO has the same stator pick up coil as the lifan 125 type.

 

[low_rb]

Thanks for all the info guys.

So it seems its still a 160, seller was positive that it was bored 184, Maby it was a 143 stamped barrel and got damaged so it was bored out???. Either way im not bothered. It moved along all right the little ride I had was a bit flat down low but came on quite well once the revs were up.
Im half expecting a slight increase in it once the new chain is in to, it was that loose I could turn the crank at least 2deg before the cam would move.

When school goes back ill be pulling the whole bike apart for a bit of a rebuild and I will be pulling the top off the motor at the same time to have a look

 

[gottagetacheaperhobby]

If it was a little lacking in torque I would say it is the stock bore, but it could have been bored out.

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[low_rb]

Well it seem i got the right chain but the wrong one, can not for the life of me get the cam sprocket on.

Same ammount of links but run out of stretch to get the bolts in