"Plastic Weld" vs Plastic welding?

Mini Dirt Bikes & Pit Bikes Forum

Help Support Mini Dirt Bikes & Pit Bikes Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

timeeh

Go Go Gadget Moderator
Supporter
Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
5,547
Reaction score
46
Location
Cantberra, AUS
Gonna try my hand at repairing my farings on the big bike, so just wondering what peoples thoughts are on using a plastic epoxy, vs actual plastic welding? Also any info on good or bad plastic bog (shes got a fair few grazes that need patching over)? Cheers :)
 
BUMP!!! Also another one from left feild what about fibrebgalssing vs the above methods?? with all the panel beaters and new plastic cars round here I would figure someone could give me a bit of direction :(
 
im a big fan of zip tye & soldering iron plastic welding :)

Zip tie is good, too a point. One of my last bikes (FZR250) i repaired the faring on that with a metal backing plate and pot-riveted it to the fairings, works well for a while, at 180k's there is apparently a fair bit of force applied to them and they tend to go SNAP!!! and fly off into a near-by paddock (like a paper aeroplane), never to be seen again :) Maybe plastic soldering is the way to go.
 
or drift repair!

zip-ties-bumper.jpg
 
sorry timeeh, i've been meaning to post up here,

i repair a fair bit of plastics, both Automotive and Motorcycles.
depending on what the customer wants to spend will dictate what i use for the job.
fpr a cheap repair i use the soldering iron/melting method.
stitching the plastic back together, dragging one side of the crack across to the other.
then blending it on both sides of the repair.
this can then be sanded back using some good quality 80 grit dry sandpaper (Norton or 3M).
then give it a rub with some 320 W&D, to remove some of the furry bits.
next step i apply some fine 2 pack bog over the area of the repair and let it set.
once it's dry then i rub it back with 320 W&D again (used dry), then some 600 W&D (used dry) to feather out the repair.
then lightly scuff the whole panel with some grey scotchbrite, and wipe it over with a clean lint free cloth, wettened with metho to de-static, and clean the surface.
next give it a couple of light coats of K&H plastic Adhesion primer
when dry, lightly feel over the panel for any furry edges etc, and if there is anything , give it another coat of primer to seal it all off.
it may need another light rub with 600 W&D again to de-burr/de-nibb the finish.
once it has sat for 5 mins in the sun, it is ready to give it a light coat of paint, then let sit for a few mins.
give it 2 more light coats, slowly building up the paint thickness.
once the paint is no longer see through, give it a wet coat of paint, let it dry off and if you are happy with the coverage then it's ready for a final clear coat.
you can buy 2 pack clear in an aerosol now, this will give it an OEM shine.
wait 5 more mins and then apply a second coat, being carefull to get it on evenly and no runs etc.
2 pack will flow out for a couple of minutes after spraying, flattening off as it settles.
once it's done, set aside somewhere where it wont get dust etc landing on it and let it harden.
it will be 80% dry overnight, fully cured in a week.

once it's done, and cured, then you can give it a light polish if needed.



this gear also works well,
it will bond most automotive PP plastics, bonds things that other Superglues wont.
it's called DR Bond, and costs about $11 from Supercheap Auto

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/on...9941&utm_source=getprice&utm_medium=cpc#Cross

http://www.permatex.com/products/pr...s/super-glues/dr--bond--plastic-bonder-detail



the next product i'd recommend is Plastex, it has the liquid glue, and comes with a finely granulated filler, that is poured onto the glue to fill the gaps etc
some kits come with white filler powder and some have both white and black.
this product was made for Motorcycle plastics repairs, and also works very well.
a small kit can be bought at some automotive parts retailers for about $28
here is a larger kit, http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PLASTEX-...ries&hash=item19d75d0fa6&_uhb=1#ht_894wt_1397

the other product i use is made by Lord Fusor in USA,
it's a 2 part epoxy based formula especially designed for plastics use.
you can buy different tubes to suit different types of plastics like TPO, TEO, PP, PUR, ABS, GTX, SMC
most plastics will have the type of product used moulded into the back of them if you look closely.
and they offer different products with various drying times, from 60 seconds working time, up to 45 minutes working time.
the basic kit cost me $150, and came with the special application gun, 5 types of different tubes of adhesives,aerosol preperation sprays, strengthening matting, instructions, video etc etc.
it is mainly used in crash shops etc

http://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/adhesives/automotive-repair-adhesives/product.xml/314
 
Awesome info, just what i was after. I am thinking once iv'e bogged and fixed the scratches and cracks i'm gonna paint the whole thing gloss black, althoug i am still weighing up between doing this or just spending the $500 for a full gloss black fairing kit from china? hmmmm, decisions decisions... Out of curiosity have you tride this stuff?
http://www.permatex.com/products/pr...atex--permapoxy--5-minute-plastic-weld-detail
 
have you identified the plastic type yet?
PP = polypropylene,
states in description, wont bond to most Polypropylene or Polyethylene plastics
 
Hmm, not really. I'll take some pics tonight and throw them up, then you might have a better understanding of want i want to do :) Thanks again for the advice, much apprieciated ;)
 
Yea, been looking at those. I have a slight incling towards giving a shot myself, also the kits for the 96 model are not as prevelant (94-97?) as the rest. Ebay had a gloss black one for $500 delivered.
 
Skrew the plastics and street fighter it ;)

67614af759113c6e2.jpg


otherwise, fibreglassing SHOULD be suffice to fix.. Is how Im planning on doing the ZZ-r fairing..
 
^Fuuny you should say that, after taking off the farings and looking at it I seriously considered it although something like this would be more my style
2a8gc9g.jpg

But anyway, now ive started on the fairing fix anyway. Iv'e gone for the "plastic weld by permatex" route. What i did so far was create a "well" through the back of each of the cracks with the dremmel,
Drilled holes at the end of each crack to stop them from spreading further
Drilled one hole either side of the crack so i could zip tie them together rather than trying to use clamps
Then filled up the "well" on each crack with the "plastic weld"
Checked them yesterday and it looks like it all worked very well, now to sand off the excess glue/weld and start with the bogging process.
 
sounds good timeeh,
hope you are documenting the processes etc
will be good to see how it turns out.

i've never used that Permatex gear before.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top