sorry timeeh, i've been meaning to post up here,
i repair a fair bit of plastics, both Automotive and Motorcycles.
depending on what the customer wants to spend will dictate what i use for the job.
fpr a cheap repair i use the soldering iron/melting method.
stitching the plastic back together, dragging one side of the crack across to the other.
then blending it on both sides of the repair.
this can then be sanded back using some good quality 80 grit dry sandpaper (Norton or 3M).
then give it a rub with some 320 W&D, to remove some of the furry bits.
next step i apply some fine 2 pack bog over the area of the repair and let it set.
once it's dry then i rub it back with 320 W&D again (used dry), then some 600 W&D (used dry) to feather out the repair.
then lightly scuff the whole panel with some grey scotchbrite, and wipe it over with a clean lint free cloth, wettened with metho to de-static, and clean the surface.
next give it a couple of light coats of K&H plastic Adhesion primer
when dry, lightly feel over the panel for any furry edges etc, and if there is anything , give it another coat of primer to seal it all off.
it may need another light rub with 600 W&D again to de-burr/de-nibb the finish.
once it has sat for 5 mins in the sun, it is ready to give it a light coat of paint, then let sit for a few mins.
give it 2 more light coats, slowly building up the paint thickness.
once the paint is no longer see through, give it a wet coat of paint, let it dry off and if you are happy with the coverage then it's ready for a final clear coat.
you can buy 2 pack clear in an aerosol now, this will give it an OEM shine.
wait 5 more mins and then apply a second coat, being carefull to get it on evenly and no runs etc.
2 pack will flow out for a couple of minutes after spraying, flattening off as it settles.
once it's done, set aside somewhere where it wont get dust etc landing on it and let it harden.
it will be 80% dry overnight, fully cured in a week.
once it's done, and cured, then you can give it a light polish if needed.
this gear also works well,
it will bond most automotive PP plastics, bonds things that other Superglues wont.
it's called DR Bond, and costs about $11 from Supercheap Auto
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/on...9941&utm_source=getprice&utm_medium=cpc#Cross
http://www.permatex.com/products/pr...s/super-glues/dr--bond--plastic-bonder-detail
the next product i'd recommend is Plastex, it has the liquid glue, and comes with a finely granulated filler, that is poured onto the glue to fill the gaps etc
some kits come with white filler powder and some have both white and black.
this product was made for Motorcycle plastics repairs, and also works very well.
a small kit can be bought at some automotive parts retailers for about $28
here is a larger kit,
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/PLASTEX-...ries&hash=item19d75d0fa6&_uhb=1#ht_894wt_1397
the other product i use is made by Lord Fusor in USA,
it's a 2 part epoxy based formula especially designed for plastics use.
you can buy different tubes to suit different types of plastics like TPO, TEO, PP, PUR, ABS, GTX, SMC
most plastics will have the type of product used moulded into the back of them if you look closely.
and they offer different products with various drying times, from 60 seconds working time, up to 45 minutes working time.
the basic kit cost me $150, and came with the special application gun, 5 types of different tubes of adhesives,aerosol preperation sprays, strengthening matting, instructions, video etc etc.
it is mainly used in crash shops etc
http://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/adhesives/automotive-repair-adhesives/product.xml/314