Postie bike conversion, lifan 125 help with wiring?

[zwebx]

"How do I test if my alternator is putting out enough charge? I'm wondering if there is something wrong with my regulator/rectifier?"
put a volt meter on the output of the rectifier and rev the bike and see if it stays at the 12v or whatever its meant to (obviously would drop when rpm is low) same with the alternator

it will just be a bad connection some where but if your tail lights went out it means that they were sucking power off your battery so you need to wire them to your rectifier (as you said) its hard for me to tell you what wire and where i will have a look into the diagrams for ya
if its the same wiring as the 86 http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/dratv_2263_259853178 then the tail light should be connected to the rectifier...
looking at this may help http://dratv.com/subw15.html just where the wires run and whatnot

 

[Red23]

this is seriously giving me the ****s. I've been looking around the net, all over the two wiring diagrams I have, checked out the engine with the volts, almost seems like the output isn't 12V like it should

I might have to pay some bloke to fix it for me

 

[zwebx]

where abouts are you? i have a normal sparky that will give me a hand to sort it..

have you checked all your fuses again? and checked to see that the tail lights are not blown also how come you are not charging the battery?

it will not put out 12 volts untill the cdi is spinning high enough and then putting out 12- 12+ volts

 

[my67xr]

do you have a multimeter with Ohms on it?
if not you can get one for about $10 at the cheap shops, and some auto parts stores

so set it to 200 Ohms, and measure the 2x yellow wires, 1 lead to each wire, wont matter which way around.
you should get a reading of .6 up to .8 Ohms.
if you get close on that,
then post up a picture of your regulator/rectifer, showing the wires/plug going into it

 

[Red23]

zwebx - I'm in Hobart. I've got it booked in to see a sparky next tuesday if I can't figure it out between now and then. I'm trying to work out why its not charging the battery, I'm starting to think there is something wrong with the stator/alternator. According to the wiring diagrams and that stuff from DrATV its the white wire that deals with charging, but I only get max 6v from a supposed 12v system (idle is about 3v, revving puts up to about 6.4v)

My67xr - I've borrowed a multimeter, it was set at 20v so I checked both yellow wires from the stator, and I got a reading of max 6v when revving, and 2-3v at idle. I set it to 200 Ohms, and as I understood your instructions, put the black lead onto one yellow, and the red lead onto the other. Reading was a solid 1, either way I did it. Should I have put the red onto a yellow and the black to the ignition barrel to earth?

Here's my pics, I've removed the tape from the engine wires, as I was playing with them making sure they are all good. The CDI that I installed all the colours matched up. I'm wondering if there could be an issue there? Should I put the old CDI in? Someone earlier said it would make a nice backup. Then the picture with the green earth in front of the regulator/rectifier is as it came, I didn't touch any of that. That green earth is to the frame, would that be sufficient or should I put another in somewhere, and if so, how/where?


http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3824/8774247843_8dcfed8503_c.jpg
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8560/8780816880_54bcb62566_c.jpg
http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2812/8774253941_a03a10e1d1_c.jpg

Thanks for all the help guys, its a good ride during the day

 

[Red23]

just got off the phone to DHZ, the bloke there reckons that its definitely a 12v system, but it "may" only produce about 6v until it gets to the regulator/rectifier. I've got a second postie here that I swapped rectifiers with and still the same result.

I'm lost, unless some miracle happens here with this info I'm giving up

 

[my67xr]

a solid 1 means that the lighting/charge coil is not working

 

[Red23]

is that on the engine or is that buried in the wiring diagram or internally in the rectifier or something?

 

[my67xr]

the lighting coil is the bigger coil on the stator plate

have you tried running an earth wire from a bolt on the motor to the regulator/rectifier mounting point?

 

[Red23]

I'll make an earth up to go from the regulator/rectifier mount to the motor somewhere (would the engine mount do?)

If it does happen to be the charge coil, I'd be able to get one on warranty I'd think. I wonder if the warranty would cover paying for a mechanic to fit it...

 

[my67xr]

running an earth to the engine mount bolt will be fine

 

[my67xr]

i just googled CT110, pre 1985 models are 6 volt, 1995 onwards are 12 volt

what years are yours?


if your bikes are 6 volt, then the regulator will still drop the voltage down from 12v to 6 volt, even if the stator is 12 volt.

 

[Red23]

mine is a 2007.

I'll make an earth for it and have another go

 

[Red23]

just did that, and got her running. On a fast idle (with choke) I had a solid 1 between the two yellows (@ 200 ohms) and when testing individual yellows (@ 20v) I got a reading of .1 on one of them and 3.4 on the other.

So the suggestion is then that the stator is ferked?

 

[my67xr]

i just checked another 2 stators i have, both were .7 Ohms
i'm guessing one of the windings on your charge/lighting coil has shorted, or it was damaged when it was assembled?

 

[Red23]

Is it possible there is a wiring issue or would you say that the stator is definitely the problem?

Thanks for this mate

 

[my67xr]

the only way there could be a wiring problem is, if there is a break in the wires inbetween the coil and the regulator somewhere ?
ring DHZ and ask them what Ohms reading the lighting coil should give you, it should be the same as what i've said.
i think they'll send you another stator, but you will need a puller to remove the flywheel, to swap the stators over.
i doubt they would pay to have someone swap it over?
can you take the bike to them? it would only take 15 mins or so to swap the new one in.

 

[Red23]

there is no DHZ near me, but there is some blokes I reckon I could hit up for a pull lol

I only ask about the wires because I want to make sure it is the stator, once I put my mind towards that I'll stop worrying about what goes on elsewhere.

I've been taking the readings from the harness directly from the stator, not even 10 cm's away from the actual stator itself, from the wires that came plumbed in already. Unless a break further on after that could affect the current I think it sounds like its the stator

 

[zwebx]

there is no DHZ near me, but there is some blokes I reckon I could hit up for a pull lol

I only ask about the wires because I want to make sure it is the stator, once I put my mind towards that I'll stop worrying about what goes on elsewhere.

I've been taking the readings from the harness directly from the stator, not even 10 cm's away from the actual stator itself, from the wires that came plumbed in already. Unless a break further on after that could affect the current I think it sounds like its the stator

could be a earth leak somwhere.. you never know disconnect it then test it so it for sure

 

[Red23]

what should I disconnect? Do you mean remove the entire stator? Or do you mean unplug the two yellow wires and check again? It seems the only thing that is actually working is the black/red (coil power) and the green earth. The other four wires are lighting, charge, neutral light and ignition. None of those really work now that I've drained the battery.