Postie bike conversion, lifan 125 help with wiring?

[my67xr]

if anything, just unplug it at the regulator.

 

[Red23]

so I'm going to unplug from the rectifier/regulator, if she runs like that I'll be testing both the yellows at the join as well as at the plug, if I get the same results as before it must be the stator?

 

[my67xr]

yeah, just need to test it on Ohms

doing it this way, is testing the charge/lighting coil for continuity, (to see if there is a good ciruit through it)
if there is no continuity, (eg; reading of 1) then the charge/lighting coil is faulty

 

[Red23]

So I did that test, and got the same results.

Just spoke on the phone to DHZ, they are sending me a new stator and flywheel puller. I have to send the old stator back to them for a refund.

He said that he checked some of his bikes on a shop floor running the same motor and he didn't get any reading out of his either, but the lights were working.

Hopefully I haven't just blown a hundred bucks just to take it to a sparky anyway.

 

[my67xr]

should get them to measure/test the new one before they send it out to you.

 

[Red23]

Never thought of that, already on its way now. Apparently there is a trick to removing the flywheel and not damaging stuff. Gotta make a spacer so you don't mushroom the crank. Can do that but don't have a rattle gun. Wonder where I can borrow one of them from...

 

[my67xr]

their puller mustn't be machined very well if they can mushroom the cranks.
you could always use a high tensile washer inbetween the crank and puller.
the Motion Pro puller i use has a small point to take the pressure off the sides of the thread.





i have never used a rattlegun to undo or do them up, it's not worth the risk of stripping the threads imo.

to hold the flywheel when undoing it, i use a angle grinder tool,
the one that has the 2x pins sticking out and does up the locking nut.
i put the 2x pins into the slots in the flywheel to hold it still to undo the nut.
one like this-




or you can use a strap type oil filter wrench

 

[Red23]

nice one. He said he grinds the flange of a nut the same size (he's a mechanic, so he has spares) but I like the idea of high tensile washer. The other stuff is good too, I used a wedge on the original postie clutch basket. Can't do that here but I know a couple people with angle grinders so hopefully I can get a tool. Or I'll just buy a ten buck oil filter wrench. Being a brand new motor it'll either be easy to get off (new threads) or tight from the factory assembly. I'm hoping it'll be easy.

 

[Red23]

So I just got my new stator from DHZ, before installing I chucked the multimeter on 200 Ohms, and put leads to the yellow and yellow, which gave me lots of variable readings, but only a solid 1 when a lead came off the wire, so I'm taking a punt and saying that this one works!

I'll probably install tomorrow, its my Daughters 8th today so gotta go out for pizza instead. I'll let you guys know how it goes

Cheers

 

[my67xr]

the varied readings you got would have been due to the connection where the leads met the wires from the lighting/charge coil, you were possibly moving them a bit while holding them together testing.
sounds like you have a good coil on this new stator anyway.

 

[my67xr]

there is another type of regulator available too if that still doesn't fix your problem

found this CT110 wiring diagram too, for a NZ CT110 12v
http://ct90-ct110.com/PDFs/2002-2004_CT110_NZ_Postie_Wiring_Diagram_PDF.pdf