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allyboyz

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Have a new Dpro 160 and just got a new oko26mm from dhz. put the carby on and its running really hot! any ideas what it could be? or if any one in sydney arounf the northern beaches would like to come have a look i'd really appreciate it. Also i'm just getting into mini bikes and every one has to learn some where so any advice would be much appreciated!!!
 
Hot as in the engine gets hot and blows oil out the crank breather or the exhaust gets red hot?

IF IT AIN'T BROKE, BREAK IT :)
 
The engine is hot and the exhaust is hot like if you put your hand at the back of the muffler and feel the exhaust coming out it feels like its under a boiling hot tap. I'm not to sure about the jets just what ever dhz puts in the carby. They said it was already tuned ready to just bolt on and go. being new to minis im not to sure on tuning the oko I looked on the web site jets should be JJH Needle, Slow Jet #36, Main Jet #100 also it would not idle without the choke on. as soon as you put the choke down it dies but main concern is the running hot as read it can ruin the cylinder or something? sorry if my answers sound stupid just trying to start somehwere.
 
The exhaust gases will get extremely hot mate. As for the carb not running with choke off sounds like it might be sucking air. When running spray some wd40 where the carb joins the intake pipe and where the intake joins the head, if there is a leak the spray will fill the hole and cause the engine to rev more, this could also cause the engine to run lean producing more heat and hotter exhaust also.

IF IT AIN'T BROKE, BREAK IT :)
 
cheers mate, that could be the issue as the rubber manifold it came with looked a little beat up had chips in it so maybe air is getting in. I'll try that tomorrow, I hope thats the problem. Thanks for the quick replys Also! so glad guys are on here to help and not just judge me for being new to this.
 
We all gotta start somewhere mate, let me know how ya go lad, happy to help

IF IT AIN'T BROKE, BREAK IT :)
 
Also just out of intrest if i do need to richen the carb, how do i do that? and what is a good setting for the needle/ idle/air screws?
 
Just a quick question Sorry to hijack your thread mate. But is there really that much gain from changing the carbi on the Dpro 160 I thought the Mikuni's where a good thing?
 
Also just out of intrest if i do need to richen the carb, how do i do that? and what is a good setting for the needle/ idle/air screws?

its hard to tell off the bat (soo to speak)

best bet is to get a "jet kit" for the jets

for now just play with the needle settings and also clean the carby with carby cleaner and compressed air... for the needle settings.. do them AFTER you clean the carb because you could clean/blow out a little bit of dirt out of the jets and get the bike running great again...
but for the needle just move it 1 spot at a time till you get a sweet spot (or well no hesitation and maximum power)
 
Just a quick question Sorry to hijack your thread mate. But is there really that much gain from changing the carbi on the Dpro 160 I thought the Mikuni's where a good thing?

Mikunis are good but by far the best, even an oko could still be bettered, but the oko 26mm is an awesome carb, the fuel delivery and response from a flat slide carb is supreme and the gains are noticeable instantly.

Remove the slide and push the slide needle out, there will be a circlip on it, there is 5 notches with the bottom being the most rich setting and the top being the most lean setting on the needle, from experience the richer the better. With the mixture screw get the bike running and turn the idle up till it starts revving a bit past idle or even higher than that, start turning the screw clockwise(inwards) until you here the carb start to choke and slow up, then start turning anti-clockwise(outwards) until the revs start to really flatten out and the revs pickup and is a smooth rev. but listen good and try it a few times to get used to listening to it, when the revs and mixture comes good dont go past it to much as it then starts to go out of idle in the opposite direction.
 
Hi guys, So i tried to get it running today and it started on choke for about 15 seconds then died, now it wont even start! if there is a leak between the manifold and rubber boot would that make it hard to start also? I have a few pics ill upload. Im spewing over this as i've spent so muchtime and money trying to get it to run correct when its a brand new bike. :( also the bolts that go into the rubber boot wont tighten that much. I'm hoping that this rubber boot is just the problem. it was also very hard to start from new though even with the mikuni carb on it.
 
Get rid of that gasket between the manifold and boot it doesn't need it as the boot has a seal on it, did you try testing for air leaks! I would say that's is the problem you're having. Don't worry mate tuning takes time at the end of the day you are learning and when you get it right which you will, you will be much wiser and happier with yourself. Keep us updated.
 
Also the mixture screw looks a little far out, how many turns out is it! It should be around 2 1/2 turns out.
 
yeah i tried with out the gasket first, then just put it in to see if it helped. i'm not sure how many turns out it is just what ever dhz set it to. i cant even get it to kick over now! will adjusting the air screw help it to start? becasue i cant really do anything till it kicks over and just spent about 2 hours trying. can you roll start these bikes?
 
Yeah mate you can roll start them but is sometimes hard when the oil hasn't worked its away around for the clutch to work properly. I'd be checking everything else first like spark, kill switch, wiring, fuel and clearances but if it was going I doubt it will be the clearances. The only other thing I'd suggest is pull the carb off and check it out. I hope it's something simple. As far as the mixture screw is concerned just set it at 2 turns out and turn the idle up a bit, it might help in starting it, one other thing is are you giving it throttle when you kick it because if you are you are more than Likely flooding it, pull the spark plug out and dry it of and try again. I highly recommend getting a iridium plug as the don't foul. My mate floods my 160 nearly every time he try's to start it because he does know the right way to kick start a bike and throttles it. If you get it started defiantly test for air leaks around the manifold and double check your exhaust bolts are tight and exhaust is seated well against the head.
 
yeah I'm kicking after taking it back from the compression stroke and nothing. I looked at the spark plug seemed ok. it actually looked like it was running pretty rich wich is weird. i looked at the needle its in the middle position not sure how many turns out he idle screw is or the air/fuel screw ill check all that. i hope i can get it going. as i said im kinda bummed as i heard dhz are the way to go if u want a bike on a budget, but ive had issues since day one. the wosrt was taking it to pacific park wich is a good hour and a half from where i live paying my $30 TO RIDE then not being able to start the bike! wich ran fine before i put it on the ute to go. Its a tricky lil bugger ill say that much! so a good setting for the carb do you guys think middle clip on needle, 2 turns out for the air/fuel and maybe 2.5 turns out on idle? also thanks alot for the help guys i really do appreciate it!
 
pull the plug out and put it in the cap and earth it on the engine so you can look down the plug as opposed to looking only at the electrode, check the spark is not sparking inside the plug, or have you tried other plugs.
 
I would say its flooding mate, I did have this problem when I put my oko on my 160, they say plug and play but sometimes needs some tweaking. I've tuned mine to start second kick every time now and I'm running a 35 pilot, 98 main and middle clip. DHZ is good quality for price sometimes these things happen and it takes sometime to sort out but you will. We all know how your feeling trust me as Miniriders have all been there.
 

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