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my67xr

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i thought i'd make up a thread with some pictures of a few common Stators
and list the Ohms readings if anyone needs to check theirs.
i'll add some other stators when i get a chance next, and some ignition coils too


Lifan 125 type stator and flywheel.

the black coil to the left is the Source coil this coil supply's the power to the CDI
and to the right is the Lighting/Charge coil for charging battery's for starting and lighting etc
and the small black box at the top is the Pulse/Trigger coil which tells the CDI when to fire.
and the black rubber plug and contact, with a single green w/red striped wire in the centre of the stator is not connect or if it is, it's for a start in neutral only engine (used in electric start engines, and some older pit bikes)
a lot of the time the lighting coil isn't used and can be left disconnected with the 2x lead terminals insulated and taped back onto the stator wires







to test the stators' reading you will need a basic multimeter.
follow the loom upwards to where it joins the main loom.
unplug the black w/red striped wire, the blue w/white striped wire, and the green wire.
these are the 3x wires that your bike needs to run


to measure the resistance on the source coil-
get your multimeter out and set it to 2000 Ohms
put one lead from your meter to the black w/red, and the other lead to the green
you should get a reading around 380 Ohms give or take 10%

and to check the pulse/trigger coil-
set your meter to 200 Ohms
put one lead to the blue w/white striped wire, and the other lead to the green
you should get a reading around 130 Ohms give or take 10%


if your meter doesn't move and give a reading when you touch the leads to both the coils' wires, it either has a flat battery, or there is not a complete circuit.
so you might have to try cleaning up the terminals on the ends of the wires
or there could be a break in one of the wires, or a break in the windings of the coil.

if you get a reading, but there is a big difference to the above readings, that could indicate that the coil you are testing is faulty, or that it has shorted across a couple of the windings




Adjustable Timing Daytona style/Lifan 150 Outer rotor kit
the bottom picture shows the coils
the 2x coils on the right of the mounting screws are for the Source coil
and the Pulse/Trigger coil is the black box at 9 o'clock on the stator plate






testing the coils,
unplug the 2x wire socket from the stator loom, where it joins to the main loom
set your multimeter to 200 Ohms

to test the Source Coil,
put one lead from your meter to the black w/red wire, and the other lead to the red,
you meter should have a reading around 10.5 Ohms give or take 10%

to test the Pulse/Trigger coil,
unplug the pink and green w/white striped wires,
put one lead from your multimeter to each of them,
you should get a reading around 130 Ohms give or take 10%

as above if there are no readings, first check your connections,
if you do have a reading but it is a lot higher/lower, then the coil could be faulty and need replacing





YX150/YX160




testing the coils,
unplug the black w/red wire, blue w/white wire and the green from the stator loom, where it joins to the main loom
set your multimeter to 2000 Ohms

to test the Source Coil,
put one lead from your meter to the black w/red wire, and the other lead to the red,
you meter should have a reading around 250 Ohms give or take 10%

to test the Pulse/Trigger coil,
unplug the pink and green w/white striped wires,
put one lead from your multimeter to each of them,
you should get a reading around 550 Ohms give or take 10%

as above if there are no readings, first check your connections,
if you do have a reading but it is a lot higher/lower, then the coil could be faulty and need replacing





Zongshen Z155HO/Z160HO/GPX125




testing the coils,
unplug the 2x wire socket from the stator loom, where it joins to the main loom
set your multimeter to 200 Ohms

to test the Source Coil,
put one lead from your meter to the black w/red wire, and the other lead to the red,
you meter should have a reading around 10.5 Ohms give or take 10%

to test the Pulse/Trigger coil,
unplug the pink and green w/white striped wires,
put one lead from your multimeter to each of them,
you should get a reading around 130 Ohms give or take 10%

as above if there are no readings, first check your connections,
if you do have a reading but it is a lot higher/lower, then the coil could be faulty and need replacing


Late addition

Daytona 150F, 150FDX, 150FLX, 190F, 190FDX, 190FLX stator reading's

Testing the stator, it measured 360 Ohms on the Black w/Red striped wire and the Green wire from the Source Coil/s, and 260 Ohms on the Blue w/White striped and Green w/White striped wires from the Trigger Coil.



 
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my67xr

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thanks, i've been meaning to make this thread for a while
it gave me something to do while i'm waiting for paint to dry, lol
 

zwebx

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Well Done The ammount of posts it should save you will be astounding :p
Never really bothered with the electrics, if it doesnt make spark look for the obvious signs, then replace cdi.. if that dont work then replace the coil - stator :) cant go wrong then :p
 

my67xr

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thanks, hopefully it will save some time/questions.

i recently moved almost 400 threads into this new electrical section, and the amount of questions that were basically the same was huge.
it might even be worthy of becoming a sticky ?
 

zwebx

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thanks, hopefully it will save some time/questions.

i recently moved almost 400 threads into this new electrical section, and the amount of questions that were basically the same was huge.
it might even be worthy of becoming a sticky ?
+1 to that Hell yeah it is.
 

my67xr

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Full wave regulator rectifier




To test a full wave regulator/rectifier here's a diagram with the terminal's numbered (brass terminal's to face you)




First set your digital multimeter to 2000 Ohm's

Put your red probe from the meter to pin 1,
Now place the black probe from the meter to pin 2, you should get no reading, meter will stay on 1
Place the black probe to pin 3, you should get no reading again, meter will stay on 1
Place the black probe on pin 4, you should have no reading again

Now place the black probe from your meter to pin 1
Put the red probe from the meter to pin 2, you should get a reading around 550
Next put the red probe to pin 3, you should get a reading around 1250
Then put the red probe to pin 4, you should get a reading around 550 again

Now place the black probe from your meter to pin 4
Next put the red probe from the meter to pin 1, you should get a reading around 1250
Put the red probe to pin 2, you should get a reading around 550
Then put the red probe to pin 3, you should get a reading around 550 again

Put your red probe from the meter to pin 4,
Now place the black probe from the meter to pin 1, you should get no reading, meter will stay on 1
Place the black probe to pin 2, you should get no reading again, meter will stay on 1
Place the black probe on pin 3, you should have no reading again


If all the reading's check out like listed above (give or take 5%) then your regulator rectifier has tested ok, and should be fine to charge your battery and run lighting etc.

Sometime's in very rare case's the reg/rect when it test's ok can still be faulty, it might not work under a load, but that doesn't happen very often at all.
 

K.Jansson

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Maybe measure the resistance in the ignition coil, then you can easily see if you have a shortcut there!
 

my67xr

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They are usually around .5 Ohm's +/- on the primary side and around 5000 Ohm's +/- on the secondary
But there's so many different coil's available it's hard to know what work's best with what stator and cdi
 

my67xr

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Cheer's Corey, all fixed here.
Now i need to fix the rest of my Photobucket pic's :11doh:
 

davo81

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Hi Sorry to dig up an old thread... Ive just received a non running ds80 that doesnt have spark ive tested the igniton coil with a multimeter and it appears to be faulty i wanted to test the rest of the electrical system would the above checks be applicable to a ds80 aswell.... Cheers
 

my67xr

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All good mate.
Nah DS80 are different to all of the above Stator's
I'm sure i have posted the reading's here somewhere but can't remember where
The DS80 has a special cdi type ignition coil which is only used on a few Suzuki's.
If you set your meter to 200K Ohm's you should get a reading around 15,000 - 17,000 Ohm's
And then set the multimeter to 200 Ohm's, from the power in lead and the earth of the coil you should get between 1 - 3 Ohm's


Have you tried a new plug in it ?
 
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davo81

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Thanks for your help i've just measured at the various points and im getting thee readings using a digital meter with auto ranging

End of plug lead with cap removed to power terminal 1.84 megohm
Power in lead to earth of coil 1.84 megohm
Spark plug cap 4.79 kilohm

So going of these figures the coil is faulty ?? Seems to be way out of spec though could you be that unlucky??
 

my67xr

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The secondary reading is to low, power lead through the coil winding's to the spark plug lead
And it has the wrong spark plug cap going by that last reading too
A genuine Suzuki coil will cost you about $200 new
I would try and find an aftermarket coil for it, should be to find something around $50-$60 from a Motorcycle Electric's shop
 

davo81

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ok yeah i was thinking aftermarket do you recommend a certain type of aftermarket coil and is it something i can get of ebay ?? What about the rest of the electrical system ive tried to find some other posts on stator testing but cant find anything...
 

my67xr

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The DS80 run's a very simple stator with 2x coil's one for the ignition one for the light's.
With testing the stator's there's not much on the net with the DS80 or JR80's
Mine is buried in the back of the shed atm so i can't even test that for you atm
Maybe gottagetacheaperhobby can test the JR80 that's at his place atm ?
I think any brand that is a direct replacement for the DS80 coil should be ok, you might find something on ebay
 

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