this doesnt look like a MSO

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gazza2003au

gazza2003au

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2005
Messages
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Location
Liverpool/Fairfield, NSW
just picked up this bike its been trashed but got it cheap its my new money pit but where do i start? LOL engine covers say MSO
 
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yer deffinately dosent look like a mso

for starters i would be looking at a rear wheel suitbale for the bike

then check engins is working fine, get some better forks better tyres etc
 
cheers for the reply yep the engine starts all though doesnt idle not a problem i had a little turn in the back yard and checked all gears im looking around for shops with all the parts
 
Read through these:

- http://www.miniriders.com.au/bike-setup/24239-achtung-noobs-your-new-pitbike-you-set-up-tips.html
- http://www.miniriders.com.au/motor-tutorials/26318-how-run-new-engine-run-hard.html
- http://www.miniriders.com.au/motor-tutorials/25055-how-start-pit-bike-properly-top-dead-center.html

First thing you do to the engine is drop the shipping oil and put in some new stuff:
- Shell Advance 4T Motorbike Oil - 15W-40, 1 Litre - Supercheap Auto
- Castrol Activ 4T Motorbike Oil - 15W-50, 1 Litre - Supercheap Auto

Then check your valves... VERY IMPORTANT!!:
- http://www.miniriders.com.au/motor-tutorials/24965-how-set-valve-clearances-horizontal-engines.html
- YouTube - How to check valve timin on Honda 50 70 cc motors

Might want to have a look at some mods to do to your bike as well:
- http://www.miniriders.com.au/bike-setup/12274-tricks-trade.html
- http://www.miniriders.com.au/bike-setup/24009-performance-upgrades-guidelines-stage-i-iii.html


Buy your stuff from DHZ:
- Home Page - DHZ Mini Moto
Click to expand...

I normally use this for people that just get new bikes but that bike needs a good go over.

I'd be doing the basics first. Getting engine running right, New chain, sprokets, brakes discs and pads/shoes. Getting leavers, handle bars then follow up with new suspension and cosmetics.

New rear wheel is a must looking at that thing.
 
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bulldog93 said:
I normally use this for people that just get new bikes but that bike needs a good go over.

I'd be doing the basics first. Getting engine running right, New chain, sprokets, brakes discs and pads/shoes. Getting leavers, handle bars then follow up with new suspension and cosmetics.

New rear wheel is a must looking at that thing.
Click to expand...

thanks mate surprisingly the bike has no back brakes and the front brake lever was snapped off taking along the whole brake system so those both are getting replaced as for the bars they have pro taper stickers and pad on it lol i think it might not be genuine and yep that funky rear wheel is gone it has a massive 10 inch corrosion crack around the inside i have the feeling the last owner smoked the rear wheel knowing i was on my way down there to buy it there is tar all over it and the plastics only screw to the tank in 2 of 4 spots **** happens i guess i have it now time to repair it back to new i found a set of front USD forks mine measure 620mm the ones i found measure 700mm do u think this will look way out of proportion? and the front wheel is 12 inch do u think a 10 inch rear would be ideal or a 12 inch rear?
 
You'll have some rack with those new fork, I would think.

Looks like it has a 10" wheel on the back already. The new forks you found might be suited for a 14" front wheel and you could add a 12" rear??

Can't trust many people these days. Luckly everybody on here are great people and will endevour to hel out the problems people face.

I'm sort of parting out my bike. If you need anything give me a buzz and I might be able to help you out.

I have a new 12" rear, 15mm axle new tread never used.
 
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bulldog93 said:
You'll have some rack with those new fork, I would think.

Looks like it has a 10" wheel on the back already. The new forks you found might be suited for a 14" front wheel and you could add a 12" rear??

Can't trust many people these days. Luckly everybody on here are great people and will endevour to hel out the problems people face.

I'm sort of parting out my bike. If you need anything give me a buzz and I might be able to help you out.

I have a new 12" rear, 15mm axle new tread never used.
Click to expand...

i think that wheel on the back is an 8 i will have to have a closer look but its tiny! lol it looks like a wheel from the old honda Z50 LOL

i just looked at the carby there is no idle screw how do i adjust the idle by the mixture screw? ive only seen this on old boat motors so this is new to me oh and gotta love that air filter :eek: and the shockly looks pretty rusty considering the bike came from a coastal town
 
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Undo that screw 2 turns. Mixture screw should be on the bottom of the carbi. Take off the plastics and give it a hose down.

That looks like one of the DMN shocks.
 
that screw in your second pic is the idle screw...

and im not sure if anyone else has noticed but it looks like the frame is bent as it has a lot of rake on the forks...
 
bulldog93 said:
Undo that screw 2 turns. Mixture screw should be on the bottom of the carbi. Take off the plastics and give it a hose down.

That looks like one of the DMN shocks.
Click to expand...
thanks i will adjust it shortly look what i found in the carby


that screw in your second pic is the idle screw...

and im not sure if anyone else has noticed but it looks like the frame is bent as it has a lot of rake on the forks...
Click to expand...
thanks and u could be right there are no creases in the frame but the rake does look longer i thought it might have been to do with the 9inch wheel on the back
 
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I have the front brake. Lines, caliper, master cylinder and I can throw in the brake lever and clutch lever to match.
 
bulldog93 said:
I have the front brake. Lines, caliper, master cylinder and I can throw in the brake lever and clutch lever to match.
Click to expand...

cheers mate let me know by PM how much for it all and are the brakes pre bled? i just changed the master cylinder from another pit bike i have and couldnt get the air out
 
Re-bleed using this techneque

<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/EGEkmWX1NM0?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/EGEkmWX1NM0?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

Then give me a PM if they don't work and we'll work somthing out.
 
i just tried bleeding the front brakes like in the video the brake fluid is just moving back and forth inside of the clear hose as i pump the lever
 
yeah that video is ok if you have working brakes.

the main bit missing out of the video is you only want to keep squeezing the lever in about 3mm with the bleeder nipple closed, that will get rid of any air in there (you'll actually see the air bubbling back into the res).. once you've done that you can do as the video shows..
 
sean01 said:
yeah that video is ok if you have working brakes.

the main bit missing out of the video is you only want to keep squeezing the lever in about 3mm with the bleeder nipple closed, that will get rid of any air in there (you'll actually see the air bubbling back into the res).. once you've done that you can do as the video shows..
Click to expand...

cheers mate i tried that and there doesnt seem to be any fluid spitting up could the line be clogged?
 
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