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mr_plow

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its very handy to have a dremmel for a few of these mods. the porting/polishing of the intake manifold and cutting of ignition cover can be done very neatly and quickly
 

rotn50

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Bump this thread, i can remember 4 years ago using this thread when i had a pitpro 125rr, have a look people there is some good basic starter tips in here,
On the rear sprocket if the bolt holes are threaded all the way thru the hub then install longer bolts so you can put nylock nuts on the bolt and your sprocket bolts will never rattle loose again and beats using loctite and destroying the thread(thats if you always use high strength stuff.)
 

lets ride

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well i have that problem that my rear sproket bolts rattle loose and snapped all 4 bolts so im looking at drilling the holes and putting nut and bolt on but wasnt sure if it would work
 

rotn50

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just make sure that you are careful and run an undersized drill bit in and be precise by not drilling on an angle and damaging the existing thread and then tap the new drilled section.
 

rotn50

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So from time to time at work, customers will bring there bikes in and say that there brakes are faulty or just dont work as good anymore, and alot of people will not even think about maintaining this part of there brake system and dont even realise its importance in the way your brakes work. Quite a lot of brake systems are mounted to the axle or fork leg by a bracket, as seen in this pic.
20121128_223148.jpg

If you remove this bracket it exposes the 2 mounting rods, as seen in this pic.
20121128_223330.jpg

these require lubing with some grease, over time they dry up and gather crap and can seize up very tight causing your caliper to tighten up on the rods, the piston side of the brake pad will still push onto the disc but without the caliper sliding on the rods you get nearly next to no pressure on the inside brake pad giving you the impression that the brakes are faulty because the brake lever pulls the same with less effect.
 
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