Troublesome Ct110

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Cordogs

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Hey Crew so as you know I acquired a postie a little while back and am now getting it ready for rego. It's an older model ct so it's only 6v which is causing me a few headaches.

1st is...

It keeps blowing head light, and a roughly $8 each it's becoming an expensive exercise!
I know that these things need a fresh battery - which I have and I also know they run the light directly from the bike.

So my question is .... Can I buy an aftermarket suppressor/capacitor to rectify this fluctuating current, and if so how do I install it??

Second is...

Has anyone got any photo's of a tail light/indicator wiring setup? The bike came without a rear assembly so I bought some indicators, a tail light and mounting bracket and wired it up to spec from what I could find on the old interwebs, but can't seem to get them to light up? And am now a little worried about starting it whilst it's blowing globes...

So if anyone has any knowledge they can share with me it'll be much appreciated!
"I'm looking at you Motodevo" :boink:
 

motodevo

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Part of your problem is definitely the dead battery, the headlight runs off AC from the motor but the ac also goes into a rectifier converting it to DC to charge the battery and run other lights, horn, etc. The old hondas run no regulator, its a "balanced" system, there's just enough load to stop the voltage spiking to high. Without a functioning battery there's nothing to "soak" up the spikes in voltage. Sort out the battery first then you'll realise how crappy old honda 6v lighting is.
You'll then want to get one of the and swap out the rectifier
GBPC25005 | Vishay GBPC25005, Bridge Rectifier, 25A 50V, 4-Pin GBPC | Vishay
Heres a vid on how to do it
Honda 90 Rectifier Upgrade - YouTube
This will give better lighting because more a efficient rectifier means more volts at idle, easier starting, etc. Theres a link in the description to some forum posts about it all.
Or try out the one in the above post, it has a built in regulator too so that could help, but i have no idea about them, but from past experience most chinese reg/rec unit will still need a batter connected to function correctly.
As for your rear lighting problems, who knows?
 
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Cordogs

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Coming through with the goods boys!! :action-smiley-035:


Thanks heaps for that, yeah I've heard a dead battery can be an issue. I did however buy a brand spanka but it's sat on the bench now for about a month so I've had it on charge over night and I'm hoping it's not cactus...
 
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headsmess

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ouch.

that there is a "head mounted" cdi.

under that cover is a mechanical advance unit, and a trigger coil. i would say, its circa 1986 or so, the 84 and earlier had points under there.

the black box is, as mentioned, the cdi box itself. the generator/flywheel produces power, charges a capacitor in the CDI box, and the cdi trigger tells it when to release that charge to the coil. as the trigger runs off the cams, they dont make a "waste spark" like crank triggers do.

not sure what happens if you poke a standard "new" cdi box on it... pretty sure it would over-advance as the newer cdi all have electronic advance. a timing light will quickly answer that. and then all you would do is "lock" the mechanical advance...(if you ever need to "upgrade" the cdi, that is...if it works, leave it alone ;) and as the cam speed trigger is half the crank speed, the new cdi boxes are really going to be a pain in the butt. dont know. never tried it...)

but. blah blah. the rectifier is under one of the side covers, down near the battery.(probably the left hand one) if it is really ANCIENT, its a bunch of plates stuck together. "selenium" rectifiers, i believe. if its a bit newer, its an alloy box, black or silver, shaped as a heatsink. with four wires. two in, AC, two out, DC.

pretty sure mine used to run the headlight ok with no battery, but dont take my word for it. battery...run it, measure the output at the regulator, it should be no higher than 7.2V.

possibility that a newer, 12v stator will fit the engine. can only experiment. there would be no need to rewire, just fit 12v regulator, and a 12v battery/bulbs etc. battery from a yamaha R15 fits perfectly ;) (yb5l?)


take that silly blue thing off, it looks incongruous!


honda always tended to use the same wiring colours...

green is earth is the frame. red is the BRAKE light. brown is the TAIL light. and then the indicators are orange and blue...ones left, ones right. not sure which.

if theres no green wire in the loom at the back, assume the frame is earth and ensure a good connection between tailights and frame.


sure its actually a 110 and not the ct90? i got a low/hi gearbox for the ct90 here... 8 speed :) may fit the 110 but no guarantee.

i got mine registered by drilling holes in a lump of timber and poking leds through and wiring THAT up! lasted for years until some old bloke nudged my rear end at a set of lights one day (seriously, nudged... felt like my clutch had grabbed a little, i was shocked when i looked behind me and found there was a datsun up my rear!)


unfortunately chinese engines are not a direct bolt in replacement in the 90/110 frames. only the 50/70cc frames do. but either way, you need an engineers cert for the engine swap if you ever contemplate it.
 
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Jeffrro

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Was wondering if this wire would be a ground also if you could help me instructions to adjust my cdi timing that would be awesome.089937BA-F4A7-43C6-895C-A04484425199.jpeg8F64F8C6-B870-4AA6-B748-4504C7416F8A.jpeg
 

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