Which carby for my Lifan 150cc

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I put the standard jets back in the carby which in my case were
Pilot/Slow-K42 and Main-K112

This seems to have made it a little cooler at idle but wont allow it to rev when trying to ride.. If I just ride around slowly in first it will keep going but as soon as I start to accelerate it stalls out straight away...???
 
go back to your old jets, and ride the thing... see if the air flow makes a difference in heat ranges as opposed to sitting
 
I hate to say..I told you so...but you should have gotten the Miku ..lol

Back to your thing...did you check valve clearance on that engine??..new engines intend to come with tight valves sometimes!
The engine obviously needs more fuel...so step up on the pilot!!
If it caughs at full throttle too, you need also a bigger main , but I doubt that with a stock head!
 
No need for the mikuni !! others on here and in the states are using the OKO 26 on there 150's with great success... I just needed to sort the jetting !!!

I have it very close now only didn't finish as it started pouring down rain !!!!

It was to lean down low and to rich mid and high !!

I put the original slow Jet (k42) back in, lifted the clip back up to the middle and now it's at a nice temp at idle and revving nicely !! I put a K100 main in and although it didn't get to hot I think it's a little lean up high so tomorrow I just need to put the K105 back in and it should be sweet !! I'd preffer to have it a little rich then a little lean...
 
People who start out on chinese bikes quickly learn to become better diagnostic mechanics and tuners than those who buy Jap bikes that are already sorted out for them and run problem free ... just like the rev heads who started out with Holden 6's and V8's and modified 'em ... compared to champaign sipping yuppies with their BMW's , Volvo's etc ... The Holden drivers can blow a fan belt out in the desert then know how to fix it by refilling the radiator with their urine and using a pair of old panty hose that they have lying around in the boot as a make shift fan belt ... (err .. one's that they've kept to wear while fishing as protection against blue bottle , jelly fish and man'0war stings ) OR the pair their missus' is wearing (IF they have one) ...

Whereas he yuppies (not having a clue what to do) make a phone call to the NRMA ... then sit in their broken down car sipping champaign until they are found dehydrated to death .... :p
 
Cactus, right on.

PB, Interesting your stock jets differed to mine. Oh well quality control. My settings are just a benchmark then. I did not simply throw in those jets and say "hey that's it". When changing one way or the other I would purposely over step each apparent ideal jet setting to confirm what I thought was happening. A time consuming process. It probably took me about 2 or maybe 3 hrs before I was convinced. If your OKO26 is not the same as mine then you'll have to do something similar and re-jet yourself. The inlet ports must match. Yours look pretty bad! I used the OKO inlet (not the Lifan one), but the OKO bend is more gradual so your carb will sit higher and on your bike you might run out of clearance above the slide cap. My whole header is coloured. Blue out of the head, then into a bronze colour. Tune by how it runs. Lean means hesitant. Rich is rough and deep sound. Way rich or lean can = big. Throttle position indicates which jet (or combo of jets). I do pilot+screw to make it just run somehow, then I set the main. Then I fine tune the pilot+screw, then fine tune the needle clip (1/2 to 3/5 open), then I go back over the whole lot and seek further improvements because they dont all work indep of each other. I know I am jetted slightly rich. If for example at wide open I go one leaner on the main, then for sure my engine pulls with a longer and more powerful top end, but it'll bog way to easy upon sudden wide open throttle use. Take your pick. I much prefer the response. You might get lucky with a not so rich main, if you are rich enough on the needle clip, but I tried that and it did not work for me. As mine is it's crispy response with a pretty quick throttle open to any position. That response let's me get away with all sorts of problems on nasty dirt tracks - which I think is the ticket to faster laps and massive fun. If nothing seems to make sense, then don't forget the float level because it effects everything else, and OKO are - OKO. Without the clear bowl, I think it's a bit of guesswork. I changed mine (raised the level) because I had bog when new (day1) at low lean angles around tight rutted corners, and I got real lucky. I played with the carb mount angle first, and then found I could corner one way but not the other. So I raised the level and bingo. I did all my jetting at a track, but I did find that the main can be set to a near right size just by going wide open in neutral and revving the crap out of it for about 2 secs. If lean it'll bog real easy. If rich it'll never rev out. When right it'll sound real clean and rev up real fast. But your engine is new, so probably not a good idea in your case.
 
Seems to be running real sweet now !!

I'm running a K40 pilot, Clip in the mid position, A K105 main and 1 1/2 turns on the mixture screw !!

Thanks again to all that helped, greatly appreciated...
 
I'm running a K40 pilot, Clip in the mid position, A K105 main and 1 1/2 turns on the mixture screw.
Good stuff. So much fun when they run nice. Fun for the dollar factor always blows me away when these chinese bikes have decent parts and are setup well. Interesting you ended up richer on the pilot than me but leaner on the needle height/clip. Hey, I'm not saying you've not got it right. eg. My cam might need different jetting, we have different inlet manifolds and differences in our OKO26 carbs would not surprise me either. At low rpm can you crack the throttle to 1/2 or 3/5 open and your engine immediately pulls crisp and strong? Even though it was months ago for me, I can recall trying the K40 + mid clip and it was not right for me. For sure when it gets hotter and humid (like Feb and March) I get better wide open throttle response and of course sustained pull/HP with the leaner K102 main.

btw: Go hard on the throttle to bed your rings during run in - I did and my compression is unreal. But be real gentle on the gear shifting in the Lifan 150 in the first few hours because the amount of "filings" in the filter and on the mag drain plug is a bit of a worry. Metal wear and shift action all seems good now. Fingers crossed. :)

One other OKO26 tip is being aware of water getting in through the throttle cable join the slide cap. I put rubber weld tape around mine which helped but some water sometimes still gets in when I wash the bike. So if it does not start in 3 or less kicks after washing I drain the carb bowl and usually that solves it.
 
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Mikuni VM 26mm...nothing else!!

I just put a 150 Lifan in a mates bike and I took your advice and told him to get a VM26 Mikuni which he did and bolted it straight on. It runs great straight out of the box with no hassle so he is as happy as a priest in a room full of alter boys (sorry to all the catholics, no offence intended).
 
One other OKO26 tip is being aware of water getting in through the throttle cable join the slide cap. I put rubber weld tape around mine which helped but some water sometimes still gets in when I wash the bike. So if it does not start in 3 or less kicks after washing I drain the carb bowl and usually that solves it.

This is where you are getting your "quality control" idea from ... If water can get in thru the top of the carb ... then AIR can too ... and that's what contributes to the lean out bog and jetting variations ... plus it'll affect the mixture at idle and partial throttle settings ... The top of any carb must be 100 % sealed and air tight ... otherwise the engine sucks air which bypasses the jets ... You have to test a carb for its sealing ability by blocking one side and blowing into the other side with your mouth sealed on the carb mouth ... Air will blow out thru the cable seal but will stop 100 % when you block it with your finger ... if not then you have a faulty carb that will be difficult to tune right ...

The OKO's with the angled swivel cable nipple up top are the ones most likely to leak ... The screw in brass type will be better ... in combo with a rubber cable seal ...
 
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Thanks Cactus, good point. I can put silicone or sika around the cable piece entry into the slide cap, and it stays sealed until I remove the carb. But i've not needed to remove the carb for ages, so I'll do it again and seek a more permanent solution while at it. The current problem being the swivel piece in the slide cap hole lets the part rotate which breaks the seal again. My pressure washer is 3600 psi too, which requires a bit if care. ;)

This is where you are getting your "quality control" idea from ... If water can get in thru the top of the carb ... then AIR can too ... and that's what contributes to the lean out bog and jetting variations ... plus it'll affect the mixture at idle and partial throttle settings ... The top of any carb must be 100 % sealed and air tight ... otherwise the engine sucks air which bypasses the jets ... You have to test a carb for its sealing ability by blocking one side and blowing into the other side with your mouth sealed on the carb mouth ... Air will blow out thru the cable seal but will stop 100 % when you block it with your finger ... if not then you have a faulty carb that will be difficult to tune right ...
 
I've thought of forcing a piece of rubber fuel line over the cable outer and the swivel part as a seal ... If there's a leak at the base of the swivel you'd have to fix it with something else ... like silicon as you said or maybe even lock it in place with epoxy resin ?????
 
Yeah good idea. I don't need the swivel action, and the cable sits happy if the thing is aimed forward toward the headstem. I'll remove the slide cap and throttle cable, clean it then epoxy the swivel piece in position.
 
There was a thread on PM about accelerator pump carbs where they state that they turn your engine into a torque monster with instant throttle response compared to a standard type carb ... Daimojay was one of the posters ...
 
we have found the quality control on the oko absoloutly crap

we have found the casting on the little fixed pilot on the air inlet i'm not sure of its function but we have found them to be leaking and the only way to fix that is to drill em out and make a jet to suit

i'll get a picture of the one i mean and show ya
 
Yeah I know they're cheaply made with soft chrome slides that have too much slop and other things ... but an air leak at the top where the cable goes in will cause jetting to vary from carb to carb and weird tuning problems no matter how precision the rest of the carb is made or its brand name ...

BUT we all know that the carb is basically the brain that controls how well the engine runs so it's best to invest in a high quality brand carb to avoid tuning headaches ... then on the other hand ... fooling around with chinese parts trying to sort 'em out teaches you a lot ... they make you THINK about things and bring the engineer out in you ... LOL ...
 
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Mikuni VM 26mm...nothing else!!


Have you got a pic of the VM-26's you're referring to mountain ? On every site I look at they show something different ... My idea of a VM-26 would be a carb that's made of light alloy and looks similar to the MOLKTS and round slide OKO's and has a 26 mm bore all the way thru ...

Some sites are selling carbs that are made of the heavier alloy like the "25/26/30mm" ebay type Mikunis . I've got a VM-24 Mikuni which some sellers could easily flog off to suckers as 26's due to the outlet diameter (similar to judging exhaust valve size by the pipe I/D .. :p :rolleyes:) ... and some are selling the dull bare heavier die cast alloy Mikunis that look similar to the carbs that used to come on older model Jap trail bikes etc ...
 

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