yx140 help

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kyriako

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hey i bought a new motor and i fitted it yesterday when i was puting the exhaust on and the exhaust stud snaped so i wentand tried to take it of and the other stud snaped aswell

i got two studs out of my old motor they are the same but how should i get the old ones out they wont budge with pliers and ideas or opinions?

thanks kyriako
 

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yx 140 help

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hey i bought a new motor and i fitted it yesterday when i was puting the exhaust on and the exhaust stud snaped so i wentand tried to take it of and the other stud snaped aswell

i got two studs out of my old motor they are the same but how should i get the old ones out they wont budge with pliers and ideas or opinions?

thanks kyriako
 

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Drill the old ones out then tap it out to a bigger hole and get Hi-Tensial bolts while your at it.
 
Drill the old ones out then tap it out to a bigger hole and get Hi-Tensial bolts while your at it.

^^^^^ NO!

heat them with a blowtorch to help free them up, then use vice grips to unscrew them. You can get a mini blowtorch at chinese junk shops for like $5
 
they are in the head with thread ,just place 2 nuts and tighten agaist each other then wind the nut so the stud un winds , easy peasy
 
neither just place 2 nuts on the thread and wind them together then unwind the stud out of the headopps just looked at the pic lol , ok then heat em up then vice grip them to wind them out
 
blowtorch, vice grips = out
did you really need 2 of the same thread?

snitchy there's not enough thread left to use double nuts by the looks of it
 
both wrong. lol. well, Snitchy is close, but only if there is enough stud to put two bolts on it, and undo it.
otherwise go to sprints or a hardware store, and ask for some "easy-outs"...
They're funny screw things that look a bit like drill bits... they usually have a left hand thread...
you drill a smaller hole into the broken stud, and wind the easy-out into it... it bottoms out, and because it's threaded/augered the opposite thread to the stud, it will slowly "screw" the busted stud out. And with the new ones, use some "never-seize" on it when you put em in.

Here endeth the lesson.
 
Sometimes even Easy-outs fail ... I prefer the stronger square type that you tap into the drilled hole in the bolt/stud rather than the reverse flute ones which can snap off easily (the small sized ones) ...

IF you use the heat method ... heat the stud bosses on the alloy head while trying to avoid heating the actual stud ... You want the alloy of the head to expand and let go of its' grip on the steel stud ... if you heat the stud it'll expand and get even TIGHTER in the head ...

With alloy heads , it's best to let a stud cool thoroughly before attempting to unscrew it ... otherwise it can seize onto the alloy threads and strip 'em out ... Spray WD-40 on the studs after you heat them to help work the lubricant in ...

IF you have stud sticking out that you can grip with vice grips ... you can heat the engine and head up until it's hot by running it ... then use a good long blast of cold aerosol spray on each stud to shrink it seconds before attempting to unscrew it ... There's Loctite "Freeze and Release" ... but good old WD-40 in a spray can OR even a can of under arm BO spray might also work ... Maybe you could put the can in a freezer to help cool it first ... (Poor man's Freeze & Release ... :p) ...

Welcome to: Loctite® Freeze & Release

Chinese studs are relatively soft and easy to drill ... For them to snap off in a new head while being unscrewed , they must be locked in there pretty tight ...

I've had studs snap off flush on a '74 XL350 head and they were so damned hard that a high speed steel drill bit couldn't even mark 'em ... I had to spot a nut onto the end of each stud with a MIG welder ... then heat the alloy stud bosses with a blow torch to get them out ... It worked great ...

Sometimes they'll come out with just a nut welded to the end because the heat breaks the thread lock ie red loctite or whatever was holding them in tight ...
 
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yep...blowtorch (applied to the alloy around the stud, not the stud itself....) and vice grips. or weld something to whats left sticking out...etc etc etc... amazingly, even a length of timber and some decent string wrapped around the stud can work...

next time....dont be a gorilla! its an engine, not a gym set.... :p

what snitchy says about two nuts applies for when you reinstall them...and remove the good ones from the other engine....

absolute worse case scenario is to have to drill out the stud...not the easiest of jobs...
 
ok here is a easy fix get a grinder and grind 2 flat sides to it then use vice grips least that way youll have something to grip 2

make sure you unwind them anti clock wise >> i think lol
 
easy outs

they are called this for a reason

some work some are crap

drink 15 bourbons and fart light a match to it while pointing at the head

good luck
 
why are there two versions of this thread? grrrr!

cactus answered it all...

there used to be another style of stud remover that was a toothed eccentric, that worked of a 3/8 ratchet... slide over stud and undo...havent seen one for sale though...just the one in my mates toolbox...
 
fixed my mechanic done it we heated it up and used a good pair of vice grips

thankss
 

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