Inner rotor tip: Don't. YX outer rotor is nearly as revvy, gives loads more spark, and isn't prone to chucking it's magnets out or failing to spark for seemingly no reason.
114 tips:
Be neat and clean. Removing all base gasket material may be easier if you pull the studs. Fresh razor blade, then carb cleaner/acetone wipe down. Head should only need the wipe down.
Mock it up several times.
First with no piston, to verify spigot enters cases and seats on dowels with NO binding. If the sleeve rubs on case, it will cause deflection and a hot spot. Even overhanging gasket material will shove the spigot around. You can hang the motor, studs down, and scrape high spots with a stout utility knife blade.
Then with the piston on rod, no rings or base gasket. Seat jug, even if you use a couple sockets and the head nuts. Verify the piston edge doesn't stick up more than .5-.75mm above the deck. That way, a .5 base gasket and 1mm head gasket keep it in the safe range.
Chinese 49.5 cranks I've seen have a 94 or 95mm rod. The 95mm ones WILL let the piston hit the head once it's torqued down, unless you add a second base gasket.
While it's apart, a mild port job, just short side and bowl blending, is well worth it. Make sure the manifold isn't bigger than the intake port, a common small-block foible.
Use assembly lube on the wristpin and oil on the piston and rings. Be certain the clips seat right. A rag around the rod helps keep them from landing in the bottom end when one springs free of your needle-nose mini pliers.
Personal preference on the O-rings. Throw them the **** away, except the little green one around the oiling stud. I've never seen one leak without them, but seen plenty that leak when the bastid slips and gets pinched.
That's all I can think of, on one cup of coffee.