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SIKKO_X2

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gday guys,
im hoping on getting into full scale super bike racing in the next few years, so to start off i would like to get into MiniMotard racing, but i have a few questions. im sure i could find the answers if i spent the night searching but i would prefer more up to date responses that apply to my situation, so any info you could give me would be great.

-im located in Prahran, Melbourne. where are the local tracks that allow minimotards? and whats the website to the governing body of minimotarding in victoria?

-what setup is preffered for minimotarding: linkage or no linkage?

-what style of bike has better ergos, frame and geometry for minimotarding? ttr, crf, klx etc.

-what other info about the bikes setup can you give me?

cheers
 
you should come down to dandenong on wednesday nights. we ride there every Wed night. most of the other tracks here we organise a group of us to go so the track lets us on due to numbers. i live in brighton so same same.

no linkage is preferred. unless you do some work (spend some money) on the suspension. any bike is quick if your a good rider, but after riding a few tards i like the KLX better. like a motovert pro 08 or 09 with elka rear shock and marzocchi front. a motard rear rim of 3.00 inches seems to be the go now over the 2.5. with for example a motovert pro KLX with the nice stuff, you dont have to do anything to it but but a V2 on it, carby and do some hours in the workshop.
DHZ OUTLAW 160R MOTARD RACE BIKE, TWIN EXHAUST | Mini Bikes | Pitbikes | Dirt Bike Parts & Accessories | DHZ Mini Moto
if you bought this, just get the Elka rear shock as an upgrade if you can and you'll be laughing. thise brakes are wicked as well as stock.
what is your budget and we can find you a bike and get you on the track with us.
 
thanks for that info mate, at the moment im just doing my research as i wont be able to drive for the next few months and i have my funds tied up elsewhere, but as soon as i can drive ill be jumping on the minimotard bandwagon.

do many people race at dandenong on wednesdays? is there a website where i can access the prices, rules and regulations?
cheers
 
hey grnman, are there classes at dandenong on wednesdays? or is it a fun day thats open to all racers and bikes?

cheers
 
Dandenong is just practise. Any pocketbike or any mini motard or miniGP bike can ride.
Rules are bike, catch cans on carby and crank breatherlines, full face or mx helmet boots and a 1 or 2 piece leather suit, but road gear with armour will get you up and running or a mini moto suit, you will also need leather road gloves.
 
its just a fun practice night. we have one of the tracks to ourselves from 6:00 (people get there at 6:30) till 10:00pm. so you get 4hrs of potential track time and your buggered at the end of it. you go out on track when ever you want with pocket bike Junior/Senior and motard Junior/Senior all the time.

cost is $50.
 
As of yet there isn't really a governing body, the pocket bike guys are helping organise a lot of things from what I can see, and I imagine eventually, once the numbers are up, there will be a separate motard club/body. Official race days usually get insurance etc through MA.

Hunt through the motard section, there is a tonne of info on setup, tuning, bike preference etc... If you've got a few months to plan your build/buy then you'll end up with a beast :)
 
krazed0451 said:
As of yet there isn't really a governing body, the pocket bike guys are helping organise a lot of things from what I can see, and I imagine eventually, once the numbers are up, there will be a separate motard club/body. Official race days usually get insurance etc through MA.

Hunt through the motard section, there is a tonne of info on setup, tuning, bike preference etc... If you've got a few months to plan your build/buy then you'll end up with a beast :)
Click to expand...

The Offical Body is MA, but we are all members of South West Mini Moto Club, and we race under the Minimoto rules, which can be found in the Manual of Motorcycle sport found on MA's website.

We will never separate anytime soon and it would be a bad idea seeing as pockets and mini motards and newly arrived miniGP, have united under the one banner of Minimoto!

The next Club for SWMMC is at Warrnambool on the 15th of May, any help with lifts need let myself or grnman know and we will see what we can do.
 
thanks for all the help guys :) ill start doing some research on different setups and start my build once funds allow :)
 
what are your personal preferances on bars? do you prefer high or low rise bars?
 
depends on what bike. the KLX style bikes need a low rise bar for sure and the CRF style can have both. the low rise on my CRF style made my arm less bent up (cramped) in the corners when hanging off the side of the bike.
this is a mates riding position with high bars on a CRF style.

WarrnamboolTeams181.jpg
 
thanks for that, what about irc vs orc? i know there are many discussions about this on the forum but im just wondering what the personal preferances of motard riders at dandenong is?
 
YOu talk to ryan taylor and he runs an IRK an he is the fastest by a long shot, but he is a professional racer, at the nationals I know the first 3 had Lifan ORK's.
 
It is purely dependent on how you like your power delivered, if you like a snappy high revving little b!tch you go the IRK, a step down is the light weight adjustable ORK, then your standard ORK :p
 
For a setup that will put you at the front of the field and the ability to win a national titles (as long as you have the riding skill)
Frame: CRF 50 or 70, or KLX style. both have been proven to be fast and win races
Engine: YX160 or Z160HO both have been proven to be fast and win races
Head: V2 were used in the top 3 at the nationals, has heaps more speed and torque over stock head. Akunar head and pistons have yet to be used, but were used in the juniors with great success.
Ignition: Lifan ORK with the adjustable plate and box, If you can spare the coin, a Posh rotor and digital box or a daytona rotor and box.
Carby: Round or Flat slide. Both have thier own charictersitics and have been proven to be fast. Round is better at the bottom end flat is better at the top end. But... Make sure you get one that matches the manifold and intake port.
Front Suspension: Anything with the most adjustablity as you can afford. GPX Black labels are popular and so are marzocchi's.
Rear Suspension: Same deal, anything with the most adjustablity as you can afford. Elka's are the best.
Brakes: as a minimum, 210mm front rotor and twin piston nissin copy caliper. You may need to change out the stock pads for genuine nissin pads. I wouldn't worry about rear brakes as you never use them, only on occasion to help stear the bike through a corner or as tracktion control.
Rims: there is much debate over light but lumpy spoked rim or the heavy but smooth solid rim. But front rim width 2.15 - 2.5 rear rim width 2.5 - 3.5.
Tyres: PMT are the beez knees and give you the confidence and grip of a proper GP bike. They are a European GP tyre.
Any combination of the above mentioned parts will give you a top performing bike that will just need to be tuned to your weight riding style, weather contdions and track configuration.
But most of all, be happy and confident in your decision on parts. If you are confident in your machinery in your head you will be better on the track!
 
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wow thanks heaps barnes! when i get back from overseas ill be hitting this project hard
 
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