New rear shock.

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tysons_201

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I am going to get a new rear shock soon because my standard shock isn't a very smooth ride. I think all the bushes have gone in it already because when i raise the back end and let it down theres alot of play in it that shouldnt be there and i can see the shock moving in the mounts and they are all done up tight.
I was looking at getting a fastace shock, has anyone had any experiences with these shocks?
Or any other opinions?
 
My mate has a fastace shock in his bike and he says it's great but before you go spending on a new shock i would check that the bolts holding the shock are the correct diameter. Sometimes if the bolt is a little to small it creates the freeplay you are talking about so you may just need to go for slighly larger diameter bolts.
 
hmm maybe thats the case i will just have to check it out.
 
fixed the problem. The top bolt had come loose now theres barely any noticable movement while riding, before you could hear it moving. Well i fixed another problem at the same time, the chain tension problem and the problem with the chain rattling on the swingarm. The shock had been wound up so that it was at maximum length and the swingarm at maximum length. I shortened it a bit to bring the swingarm up and no more chain rattle and no more chain tension problems and barely any chain stretch now either:)
All my problems are fixed for now:)
 
tysons_201 said:
fixed the problem. The top bolt had come loose

Not sure what bike you have... but if it's a cheapie you may have to replace the bolts...

Half the cheap bikes I've seen have come with mild steel metal threads (fully threaded bolts) and normal nuts holding the shocky in, they are too soft and the thread cuts into the pivit point/eye on the end of the shock, and the nuts come loose...

They should realy be replaced with shanked high tensile bolts, and nyloc nuts..

Metric high tensile bolts generally have "8.8" cast into the head... so if your shocky bolts don't have "8.8" on the head pull them out and take them to a bolt supplier and get shanked high tensile replacements (& Nyloc Nuts), they'll only cost a few bucks...

There shouldn't be any thread through the shocky eye/pivit point because the thread is a slightly smaller diamerter than a bare shank and the threads wear down so they get sloppier as time goes by...

You'll have to specify the length of the bare shank to the bolt supplier, it just need to be a little shorter than the total length through the shock mount, so the nut doesn't run into the unthreaded shank..

(mine are 50mm long bolts, with a 30mm unthreaded shank)

Hope that makes sense.
 
Yeah makes sense, If they come loose again i will get some high tensile ones and that should do the trick.
As for the pics of my bike i still cant find my digital camera.
 

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