Current status: As I continued engine assembly (clutch side almost complete) I had the drum stuck once again... So I took everything apart again and now I'm starting to do things a bit more methodic.
I'm not sure of the outcoming, I'm doing this also to learn something and since I found no...
Alright, thanks for the answer.
Shift drum is fine. Its got 0.1mm play but since its only bolted to one side of the case this was easy.
I had problems with those knobs on the side of the sprockets to be pushed to hard against the side of the sprockets with the slots before holes and knobs...
I wouldn't expect daytona to put this kinda information in their manuals.
2/10mm means 0.2mm play, I'm not sure it was just a typo ;) but there's quite a lot difference between 0.02mm and 0.2mm play ^^
here's a pic of the gauge setup
But I guess I'll leave it as it is now, it feels safer...
I have no idea. But since the case will also warm up and since that aluminium alloy will expand more for sure than the steel sprockets/washers/shims/etc (assumed theyre heated the same amount) play might even increase between the two inner/gearbox casings.
On the other hand those sprockets...
Well... I studied precision engeneering... so "excessive" play can mean 5/1000mm ^^
I got proper shims and everything now and was able to actually measure play to give you a better idea.
(dial gauge mounted via a magnetic stand on the oilpump).
Fitted were:
-Crankshaft
-primary drive sprocket...
Hi folks!
I just wanted to know whats your experience with shimming the 155z to reduce the axial end play of its shafts?
It seems to be a bit controversal, I read proper shimming should give a litte less wear/more durability but on the same time this kinda engines seem to need quite a bit of...
I have no idea what it was before coz I only got this gauge since my intake valve broke but kicking it over feels about as it was before, even a bit harder due to the harder valve springs I guess,
I did several kicks, BUT with closed throttle... seemes like I'll have to try it again...
Valves...
Hi folks!
I just rebuilt my engine (zongshen 155ccm) after changing a broken intake valve.
I did test compression with a (cheap, analog) gauge and it says about 7bar (~100psi)...
Compression ratio should be 11.5 : 1 according to webshops that stock that engine.
I did bed the valves with...
Haha, wait... that won't work ^^
So how do I test the setup? Acceleration? Measure the time I'll need from zero to a certain speed? I saw some Koso speedos that do that.
I'll contact akunar for specs... only thing I know right now is that it's got 280degs open duration and a higher lift...
Nice! Thanks! Thats more info than I expected.
However I guess I have to read a few articles before getting started...
So this cam cards tell me when intake and exhaust is opened... reference point is TDC I guess. By installing dial indicators at one valve and check flywheel mark or play safe...
Hi folks!
I'm currently working on my ZS155 engine (runnning a oko28 flatslide). Got a akunar cam (midrange) and HD valve spring set on its way. In the meantime I'm flowing/porting the head. Carb is set up pretty much spot on for current setup.
Now I thought the next thing to optimize...
hahahahaha ...you're kidding me ^^
And yeah, I'll add a bit more red and white to the bike, I just don't like the excessive bright and colourful stuff... an no, I'm really no emo nor some kind of death metal or whatever maniac ^^
Hey folks, just wanted to share some pics of my ride.
It's the latest model stomp KZ (UK) with some ups:
-Zongshen 155ccm
-OKO 28mm Flatside
-Kayaba 36mm USD forks (275mm travel!!)
-UFO plastic kit with Metal mulisha decals
-replaced EVERY single screw with high grade ones
-renthal fatbars...
Thanks mate! Are there CDIs with connections for accelerator pump carbs that have throttle opening sensors to tune the curve? I saw OKO also does CVK replikas, might be a fun project to get one of these running properly...
Thanks for the info! I hope it isn't going offtopic too much but... really? I thought normal stock CDIs would have a rev limiter so they can sell you aftermarked CDIs without them ;-P
Interesting to know... So I'll just need to find harder valve springs. Do you know which tuning cams would fit...
Ok, carb seems to run pretty fine now. Gave it a good clean and heaven't experienced any fuel running out since then.
Put in a 98main and a full speed plug chop showed brown colour with a tint of gray. I'll try a 100 main soon to check if this might improve performance even more.
Pilot is a 38...
Hmm... something's not right here, I dismanteled my carb and float high seems to be far from 19mm. Its 19mm when I compress the needle spring, and about 22mm when its in neutral position turned to the side. I can't image how it would be that far off... I also heaven't found a way to adjust it so...
I'll check that. And, yeah, I've got one. But I can't tell how well this device works since it came stock with the bike...
Those 19mm, is this measured when turning the carb upside down so springs are compressed slightly by the float bowls weight, or when turning it to the side just before...
I ordered 95 98 and 100 size main jets and 35 39 40 pilot jets, I hope jets fpr best setup are wihin these 6 jets...
Another question, that I can't remember beeing asked here before, what's correct float hight of those 28mm flatsides?
I noticed that after riding there was a serious amount of...
I've got a 155Z as well. So these engines would benefit from beeing shimmed what means eliminating of axial tolerances if i'm right?
I've got sources for almost every kind of steel, I've got a leathe and I studied precision engeneering...
Is there more that can be done without too much of an...