You can do the swinger easily NO sweat .. just mark a straight line 1.5 mm further out from the stock axle slot top and bottom on the inside and outside of each side of it ... then carefully hand flat file it to the lines ... I've done quite a few for people ...
But the forks are risky and would need to be drilled using a drill press to get the holes square and parallel ... IF you marked them out the same inside and out either side (like the rear) , you could carefully (and tediously
) hand file them out with a round file to the marked lines ... BUT to avoid weakening the casting bosses ... (Depending on how they're configured) you'd have to move the holes down and back ... DO NOT touch the top or front of the original holes ... you want them to remain as thick as they are now ...
I told my relo the above advice about his forks (early DHZ gold forks) but as usual he didn't listen and took them to a machine shop where they outright flatly refused to do it for safety reasons ....
What you CAN do if you want to fit the better wheels with stronger straight pull spokes ... is buy 12 mm to 15 mm adaptor bushes ... That way you still use your 12 mm axles (or higher tensile one's) and spacers in a better wheel ... and leave your forks as strong as they are stock ...
Minimob Racing Kitaco Takegawa Trailbikes Mikuni Keihin SSR CRF50