Custom CRF style

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dadof2

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 9, 2010
Messages
188
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9
Location
s.a between the hills and the murray
Custom CRF style 150 bought 85% as is running but unrideable
I call it Jinu (Chinese for prostitute cos it’s been ridden by more ppl than ya mum)
Purchase price: $400.00
Frame twin trellis monster frame
Engine and gearbox: Lifan 150cc oil cooled 4spd all up box modifications: 26mm O.K.O carby,port matched manifold, port matched head with mild port / polishing work & stock 150cc cam and a O.R.K lightened fly wheel
Exhaust: pro circuit copy with heat guard nuts removed
Starter: red alloy kicker
Gearing: front: 16 tooth cog rear: 41tooth HD pitster pro cog 428 chain, pitster pro chain guide
Suspension: front: GPX black label 730mm rear: fast ace bfa-51-rc with a 1200lb spring
Throttle and carbie: ¼ turn throttle with braided cable 26mm OKO carbie & unifilter
Bars and levers: bars: fat bars with pitster pro clamp, red fold back levers with braided cables
Brakes: front: 200mm disc single piston with braided lines, running Valvoline dot 4 blue fluid rear: 180mm wave disc single piston with braided lines, running Valvoline dot 4 blue fluid
Wheels: front: 14”rim 15mm axle rear: 12” rim 15mm axle
Lighting: 60w arctic blue halogen globe (not connected)
Sticker kit: one industries blue sticker kit on white plastics
Other bling: red painted C.D.I, 150cc and Lifan embossing, selected nuts painted red, red O.K.O lettering, red painted gear shifter, heavy duty foot pegs, red alloy valve caps all cables braided, externally polished manifold,
Future mods: , re-chrome exhaust pipe, change rear calliper to twin piston (purchased), paint frame in metallic silver ice MK2 (purchased), red alloy fuel cap, hydraulic clutch, upgrade clutch springs, 39 tooth rear cog, red alloy gear lever, custom head breather kit, new sticker kit and i am considering a larger wheel upgrade to make it handle better and front wheel is dented (this list grows and shrinks weekly)
Repairs: Lack of maintenance was starting to show, Missing front numberplate and RH shock guard, Hardly ran when warm wouldn’t run when cold, Had a constant oil leak from the cam cover at a rate of a drip every second ,A cracked top tappet cover, Bent engine bash plate causing vibration noise ,Tiny metal bits in the engine and clutch debris, Blows smoke on cold start-up, Valves were set to open no real issue ,Couple of loose screws, One rear spoke bent, Cam cover copper washer was not on the right engine stud, Bottom back left & right case bolts threaded and causing oil leaks, Chain link was missing, Chain was incorrectly adjusted so that no suspension travel was present, Brake and clutch handles around the wrong way, Kick-start lever not put on correct position, Clutch incorrectly adjusted, Oil in need of a change black/grey and very glossy, Brake pedal was bent in to motor, Accelerator cable incorrectly adjusted and extended using gaffe tape, Front wheel dented in 2 places, Rear suspension was set to homosexual ass pounding hard
Repair costs: only $30 but lots & lots of self supplied labour
Purchase & modification costs: purchase: $400 upgrades: $100.00 Notes: oil dropped after 2 ride hours’ lots of clutch material and a little metal in oil along with some pieces of gasket.
Replaced with Motul 4t 20//50, clutch is very grabby and gear changes are very buttery i keep getting false neutrals in fourth as i think the shift star is worn in the box
Oil dropped again 2 ride hours later on the 1/11/10, small amount of metal found in motor small amount of clutch material, some more gasket and a small spider on the sump plug, filled with transmission fluid and engine flush warmed then dropped, filled with trans fluid warmed dropped and oil cooler lines blown out with air compressor, oil filter cleaned and refitted.
Engine refilled using 30w 4/ engine oil, the composite is the same as transmission fluid , the clutch is now smoother but still on off grabby when cold and the gear change is more of a solid click 60 minutes ride time and feel is still good

18/11/10 all oil leaks fixed by replacing gaskets head has been ported and polished valves relaped
noted that bore is scored by piston im going to hone check the wear and rebuild accordingly






 
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ahh thats sweet that you can do that. wish i could, dumb laws haha
and yeah i imagine theres some elbow grease in there.
 
yeah a fair few hours of elbow grease but thats half the fun of theses bikes
when you cant ride them you can strip them appart rebuild and upgrade
i home school my eldest and 3 of her tech lessons were on minis lol
lesson one she was given a box of bike and by the end of her second lesson she had it built
 
thats wicked, best tech lesson ever haha, good work on the home schooling too.
hows the suspension? not too thrashed?
 
Hey bud, looks good!
Where about did you pick your headlight up from? and is the engine powering it enough?

Thanks,
Sam93.
 
looks like its been neglected since it left me. Good to see it in the hands of someone whos knows what their doing, hope you enjoy it.
 
Hey bud, looks good!
Where about did you pick your headlight up from? and is the engine powering it enough?

Thanks,
Sam93.

yes heaps of power from a lifan stator plate i have one on a 125 aswell they are just spotlights from any auto store make sure you keep the plastic shield on it so it doesnt smash (the elkdest tested hers doing a jump that went pear shapped) when you stack
the one on the 125 is operated by a key , i havnt connected this one permanatly yet as its solid wired
i mounted them using the mounts supplied with the lights


looks like its been neglected since it left me. Good to see it in the hands of someone whos knows what their doing, hope you enjoy it.

cheers 50crook it looked like it was built good but has had its arse flogged since leaving you lol
buts its exactly what i wanted, cheap and somthing to play with to see what can be done as a semi resto
 
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Cheers bud will head down to autobarn and supercheap tomorrow ;)
Good luck with it should come out sweet when its done you have a good base to work off.
 

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