Going to try the new Hummer G4

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No sorry Rod but i have replaced my back tyre i ride up to 2-3 hours from where i start and i didn't want to get a flat that far from home so i replaced the tyre with a Kenda Carlsbad 100/100 tyre and it makes the original tyre look like a mountain bike tyre should be good when i get a chance to use it.
 
Weegee said:
Hey guys good news i finally received my muffler for the bike and i can only say NICE it looks unreal and sounds great too it is not one yet but i put it on the back of the old muffler and sounds beautiful i will let everyone know when its on properly and i will take photos as well.
Click to expand...

Hey Weeg,
Does your muffler have to be welded on - or is it a slide over clamp fit?

How well does it seal/fit?
 
Pipe probs no more.........

I rebuilt the old one :D

Straight through (almost) I put 1 x baffle in it. Bikes will need retune now but all good and sounds much better.

Tough I might post some recent pics of the bike, which is now 5 months old, to show your how she is standing up to the abuse.

I've been pretty hard on her and am happy with the way the mechanics and frame have gone along so far.

Anyway, some pics of thew old girl and a link to a vid of the rebuilt pipe.

Cheers Doc
 

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Still looks good Cibbs!

I'm taking thiks a bit easier with mine - although I still give the bike a reasonable work out - and haven't had anything break so far.

I'm trying to settle of the best configuration I can - and list all the mods and upgrades as thoroughly as possible. When this process reaches the end - I'm going to turn up the gas and see what (if anything) breaks.

I'll then buy a keeper with a hot OHC engine - which will hopefully last me a while.

The only thing is the number of new improved models being turned out will probably prove too much of a temptation - especially at these prices lol!
 
Hey guys
It came as a slip on muffler because thats what i ordered, but you can get it anyway you want i think even with a flange.
They did stuff up the measurements though i told them the OD of my exhaust pipe and told them i wanted the muffler to fit over that, but what they did was make the muffler outlet the same size as what my exhaust pipe was so they are both the same size lol,
But i took my pipe and new mufller to the local exhaust man and he just made an adapter and welded it to my exhaust pipe and made it so the muffler fitted inside it (slip on style) and even painted the new part to match the exhuast pipe, and all this service for $5 yes thats was right $5 oh and had it ready in 1hr as well.
So it looks great now but it not finished as i still need a muffler support bracket becuase the new muffler is alot smaller than the original one, once it is finished i will post a photo.
P.S it sound beautiful LOUDE VERY LOUDE and beautiful alomost like a DUCATI it doesn't sound like a thumper until you really open up the throttle.
 
Kuda Pro issues - HELP!!!!

:( Hi everybody, brand new to forum and haven't really ridden since i was a kid...20 years ago. Now have 2 boys of my own... and well you can guess the rest.
Appreicate that I know little about bikes...

1) I just bought an Atomik Kuda Pro 250cc but am having a couple of issues. The bike ran for about 20minutes then stopped and I can't seem to get it started again. I have cleaned the plug a couple of times and it seems to run for about 10 secs. then stops. Pull the plug out again and its black. Couldbe running very rich but surely this is not the only thing and surely it wouldn't foul up that quick just on fuel? Not an NGK plug either but i have spark.

2) When it arrived a lead was hanging off that should be connected to either the front brake lever or the clutch lever, i think it may have something to do with the electonic start but am unsure as to where it connects. Can anybody tell me which lever it should connect to and is there a fuse that is used in the line somewher for the eclectornic starter. A photo would go along way!!

Guys any help you can give me to get this thing working properly so I can ride with the boys would be great.
 
Hey Pitboys

The switch/wires that you are talking about that goes to your L/H handle bar is the start inhibitor the bike will not even crank over unless you have your clutch depressed, so i am not thinking it is that as you said it winding over,
Second thing the KILL SWITCH as you will know it located on the R/H handle bar at the throttle even in the off position the bike will still crank over you just will never get spark check it is on (i have been caught out acouple of times) but you said it starts then stops so as long as your useing your choke properly as well the bike should run.
So it sounds like a few of possible items:
1) you have a faulty stop switch that with the vibration of the bike it cuts out.
2)Your coil on the bike is faulty you are getting spark but is it enough to support the running of the engine? (if not there are cheap ones on ebay)
3)Your idle is way to low on your carby
4)You have a blocked air filter or something blocking the air supply (restricted airflow would account for black spark plug bike running rich)
5) this is not a problem solver but you need to get a good plug ASAP it will make a massive difference to the bikes running.

Check thes basic items and you should get a result if not well then we will have to look deeper.
Weegee
 
pitboys said:
:( Hi everybody, brand new to forum and haven't really ridden since i was a kid...20 years ago. Now have 2 boys of my own... and well you can guess the rest.
Appreicate that I know little about bikes...

1) I just bought an Atomik Kuda Pro 250cc but am having a couple of issues. The bike ran for about 20minutes then stopped and I can't seem to get it started again. I have cleaned the plug a couple of times and it seems to run for about 10 secs. then stops. Pull the plug out again and its black. Couldbe running very rich but surely this is not the only thing and surely it wouldn't foul up that quick just on fuel? Not an NGK plug either but i have spark.

Hi Pitboy,

Be aware that they ship these bikes with the choke in the "on" position (up). The choke takes the form of a black lever on the carbi.

With this carbi design, you need the choke to be on when you cold start - but a minute or so after the bike has started, you need to turn it off (down position) - otherwise the engine will cut out after 5 - 10 minutes.

Don't know about the loose cable you're talking about - show us a photo for express (and correct) advice (priceless!)
Click to expand...
 
Hi Fellas - got a price back from Atomik re: spare Hummer wheels as follows:

Please find our prices below
* 21" wheel - $170
* 18" wheel - $150
* rear disc rotor - $40
* front disc rotor - $40
* head stem nut (steering stem nut) $15
* rear sprocket locking plate - sold out ( but you can purchase lock in washer which can purchased from hardware stores)
* postage for parts to wa is $40.

A little pricey (almost 1/2 the bike) but handy to have - if set up with alternative tyres and sprocket etc.

I don't know if Dreamrider would be any cheaper - Ben and I aren't talking since I complained to e-bay about the engine description issues.
 
Hey rod
My bike has a micro switch on the clutch lever does yours? (similar to a brake light switch) i would have thought both versions of these bike would have (G4 Hummer and the Kuda Pro).
Anyway the micro switch on the clutch lever is a start inhibitor unless the clutch is depressed the bike will not even turn over (unless manually kicked).
The wires to that are the only ones that are on mine and the only ones i can think of.

I think you could be correct about the choke but mine is spring loaded and you have to manually hold it down into the on position maybe the spring in it is damaged or has fallen off.
 
Hey rod sorry i have just read your post properly, you state that the choke is on when you receive the bike in the up position?
My clutch is normally in the up posistion it is spring loaded and to activate it you have to push it down and hold it down with your finger?
Maybe these bikes are not identical as we first thought?
 
I think we discussed this before Weeg - mine came with the genuine Mikuni carb - I think it was you who said you had some other make?

Anyway - on mine there is a lever bar that sort of cradles half the circumference of the carbi. The bike was delivered with this in the up position - which is on. You push it down (it has a gentle sort of snap action) to turn it off.

I got caught with the same problem as Pitboy. It was a stinking hot day when I first started the bike - and it didn't occur to me that the choke would be in the "on" position. Sure enough, the bike cut out as soon as it warmed up - and it took about 20 minutes for me to figure out what was going on.

As you say though -there are a few differences between one company's version of the bike and another's. Something we'll have to keep in mind.

By the way - on my bike you can still turn it over and start with the clutch out (in neutral of course). You can even turn over the starter motor with the kill switch off - all it does is cut the ignition. It's a bit of a piss-off actually, because it means te starter motor is live all the time, which puts a drain on the battery.
 
Thanks Weegee

Guess what guys, I replaced the plug with an NGK and it started pretty much first go. Adjusted the idle like you said and she's now a new bike again.:D

As far as the leed is concerned, mine too has a spring between the two metal probes, is this what connects to the clutch lever??

By the way mine was advertised with a Mikuni carby but came with a Jing Ke. Is the Mikuni particularly better...should I be demanding the Mikuni??

Keep it coming guys..your help is very much appreciated.
 
Yeah pitboys
You could try but i doubt you will have any luck, that is the same carby as in my bike as well but it seems to work ok and i have not had an issue.
Talk to me next week though when i try and get some new jets for it.
On that matter how many jet sizes do you usually go up when you replace a muffler, i ask because i have never replaced a muffler with a sports one before
 
It's a question of back-pressure and air volume Weeg.

You might be lucky and not need a change - if the volume of air and back-pressure remain about the same between mufflers.

Usually this info is available from the muffler manufacturer.

In the case of the Carbon Fibre one you just purchased, You might well find that Bataycan could give you the info - the problem is you almost certainly cant get the relevant figures for the Hummer's standard muffler.

You're best bet is to ask Bataycan their opinion - it may be they have experience with a similar change-over.

Otherwise you're stuck with having to use the services of a proffessinal tuner - not that that needs be too expensive.

I expect the jets on your carbie to be a standard fitting - since most of the carbi manufacturers would buy then in from the same source.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.
 
The short swingarm on these bikes is a bit of a problem,having big problems keeping the front wheel down on hill climbs.
 
You're right Wildman - it's roundabouts and swings.

The short wheelbase makes them nifty and fast on a short technical track, but you suffer a bit on climb angle and high speed stability on a long straight runs.

That's why factory racing teams now often run different bikes for Supercross and Motocross - with supercross being run on a shorter wheelbase machine.
 
Hi all, got the kids sorted with there bikes now its time to look after me.Been looking at 250,s and trying to decide between them.Was thinking about this 1 NEW 2008 250CC TOMAHAWK KX pit dirt trail motor bike. Stumbled across your tread and wow, lots of good info, sure it will help me heaps.Questions are, is this bike any good and is dreamrider that bad or just that he dudded some of you with wrong motors. Hoping to join the club real soon.
 
Hi Ingleburn,

The jury is out on whether Dreamrider knew they were shipping bikes with the older push-rod engine instead of the OHC version.

Anyway - they seem to have it sorted now.

I wouldn't go for the KX - as some of the fittings (like the swing-arms) are the older style welded jobbies - which are not as strong as the machined billet versions found on the G4 Hummer. So from Dreamrider - I would go for the G4 Hummer - which now comes with the OHC engine.

The other alternative is to go for the Atomik Kuda Pro - but I think this still comes with the EVOII push-rod engine.

The Standard Kuda comes with the OHC engine - but I'm not sure what the other fittings are like - maybe the guy's that bought them could let you know.

The G4 Hummer from Tomahawk is a good buy for certain though.
 
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