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fz6 tas

fz6 tas

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Jun 13, 2009
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Location
Claremont Tasmania
Hi, new to forum and mini bikes.
Just wanted to know what engine do Braaps run?? I just bought a Pro 140 and was wondering who mad the engines, obviously the engine casings say braap so that ain't much help.
Cheers
 
first of all welcome!!

good question!! i always wanted to know that as well, you pay enough for the bikes you would wonder what engine they run..
 
when it's not so friggin cold i'll see if i can get some info off it. Too bloody wet to go out to the shed at the mo.
Took it out on the weekend but only got an hour os so riding in, got a bloody puncture. Apparently the tyre was over inflated at 30 psi (which braap suggested) and tyre rotated on the rim and ripped off the valve. Apparently there is no rim lock, so I'm gunna try again this weekend and have it inflated at 25 psi, hopefully all goes well. Must say that aside the bike went great, handled beautiful (had alot of people tell me the bike would twitch at high speeds), even picked the front wheel up in second which was a complete shock as my 600cc road bike barely can. Only other issue was that it didn't wanna idle, coming down hill and come off the gas and it would stall, this gotta better as the ride went on, and prob still has room for improvement.

Thanks for the welcome
 
either yx or lifan.. the engine number will be able to tell
 
if you don't have a rimlock you need to run higher psi, if your valve ripped at 30psi you need to put more in, going to 25psi would just make it worse,
just buy a rimlock for $15 then you don't have to worry about it happening again
 
DvDRip said:
if you don't have a rimlock you need to run higher psi, if your valve ripped at 30psi you need to put more in, going to 25psi would just make it worse,
just buy a rimlock for $15 then you don't have to worry about it happening again
Click to expand...

^^^^ditto that. and spinning at 30? wow...either thats one loose bead or whoever fitted the tyre likes their lube...

rim lock:) i wouldnt feel good going much over 35... start losing too much traction as well... but less likely to pinch when hitting a rock at full tilt...
 
so what do people suggest i run on a 12 inch tyre, tyre shop tells me 25 psi and braap say 30. Maybe there was a slow leak before the valve got ripped out, i checked the night b4 and it was at 30psi but I guess it could of developed a leak between then and the next day.
 
I also suggest a rim lock... Which leads me to my next question: How the hell do you fit it to the rim???
Can someone PM me with an answer? I have tried to get the tire off the rim, but I dont want to be too forceful otherwise I might damage the rim.
 
the thing i am worried about is drilling a hole in the rim, as far as i know there isn't a hole there for a rim lock so i would have to make one and i'm worried about compromising the safety of the wheel by doing it.
 
mate you won't find a jap bike without a rimlock and it gotta be safer than having the possibility of you tube going at any second, just make sure there's no burs from the drilling or get the bike shop to install it
 
fair enough, wish i had thought of it while i had the tyre off, oh well, gives me another couple of hours of work to do i suppose
 
the great debate! Sorry for delayed reply braaap

hey whats up !

Sorry took so long for me to get onto this thread and help!

These are some great questions here especially for new riders!

The great rim lock debate!!!

The reason why braaap suggest run 30psi and no rim lock is from our experience it is easier and works fine!

I run a maestro 150cc with race head and ride trails tracks grass track everything! Havent had a flat in ages!

I dont belive you need a rim lock if you ar eon to checking your pressures!
I have tested both and we have rim locks at braaap if you wish... I dont think any of our staff run rim locks either!

Its a never ending debate through! Like you said, drill extra holes in rim may weaken it! Hey come instore and ask the boys ! or call em up 1300braaap!

Withe the engine.
As you know at braaap we design and test our bikes here in Australia!
please understand that there are over 800 motorcyle manufactures on the books in china and god knows how many not on the books!

When you design a bike you dictate what quality you want your metal, and what components! As many of you know on here you can get a very very large range of quality, some times the parts even look the same to the eye!

Hey I thought I would share a story about the last trip to our manufacturing plant.
The reason why our bikes can garnantee the quality is because we do metal testing and stacks of quality control! We have a french team who run our plant and actually live in china!

any way long story short, I said why the hell do our gear box cost more than others, when they look the same as some?
I even bought a cheap gear box that looked like a braaap gear box (almost identical to the eye!) I said what is the difference? Why is ours more expensive?

Our main man at the manufacturing plant took a hammer and said "look and learn" in broken english...LOL
Smashed the shit out of both gear boxes, each component!

The cheapo busted and crumbled, in side the metal looked like a violet crumble bar! heaps of air pockets etc etc, he said "made very fast, cast weak to keep cheap price" (more broken english..LOL)

Smahsed the shit out of our gear box and it burred the edges of our teeth.

The difference in a braaap engine is we do metal testing... I hope that helps understand thing a little...

We do actually run different brand engines, when you buy a braaapster pro or braaapster maestro you get to choose 125cc, 140cc, 150cc or kitted up to 160 cc and 187cc
We use a few different engines and we even offer an option sometimes between engine brands / styles. (for example if you had a takegawa race head you would get a YX 150cc style engine so the head bolts straight on)

It is not so much who manufacures your engine, because as we know there is so so many manufactures in china. It is who design's it! who puts their name to it, Who is willing to back it up! who will carry parts for it! and who is gunna be there to help service and maintain it!

Do you understand what I mean?

Sorry I've just smashed this email together and I hope it kinda help's

if ya have any questions please ask!

Lets get our sport pumping together!

also all miniriders will get an invite to our grand opening at braaap frankston for August 29th!

see ya at the track!
 
hey braaap that's very interesting about the gearbox, some more info would be good.
just a couple days ago someone was saying we should send a team of engineers over to china to oversee the construction of a reliable gearbox, but it looks like you've already done that.
so the rubbish gearbox, is that what most china engines run stock? (YX/GPX/LIFAN/Zonger)
are you making this strong gearbox available for chinga riders who don't have braaap bikes?
 
they run lifan motors because my brother has a braaap pro and its shit
 
i have a braaap mid size and its a yx motor and a great bike :D:D


i just read what brad (AKA BRAAAP>COM) had to say about there gear boxs

and i understand where Dreadful got the info from

now i can say that i work in a steel foundry. some my know what it is i do
and those that dont know what it is that i do or what a steel foundry is
all day long i play with steel castings big ass ones at that

what most dont understand is steel aint just steel (and thats just steel dont get me started on iron)there is a lot of things
that can change how weak, strong, hard, soft or even brittle a given compound can be
one small change and and the cake mix is ****ed and is no good

then you get in to the moulding of the steel there is a lot more work and a lot more things that can go wrong
here. a small thing like the temp of the molten steel being 5 degrees to hot or cold when poured
will stuff the lot up to

so its not what most think melt it pour it and she will be good

all the small things add up to a good casting rush the job and ya end up with
castings that are to brittle, soft, small cracks and at worst have porosity in them

all of the castings we do get checked in house for hardness, cracks and they use ultra sound gear to
test for porosity every casting has what is called a test bar that is cast with every mould that is poured
that gets checked to make sure the mix of steel is spot on

then some of the things we do have to be sent out for 3rd party testing where they do more testing
to see that we are not taking to cheap way out

so at the end of the day i know what goes in to making a good casting and the cost and time

but at the same time i know what corners can be cut to save a bit of coin

so if brad is doing the testing he has said he is doing and i have all faith that he is
i can see how this claim of the cheaop box breaking like a crunchy bar gears full of porosity
made of a steel that is not what its ment to be will do that every time
 
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